Chicago 2009: Nightwood

"Guys guys guys" to quote a friend - I am going to stop apologizing as an introduction to each post. I am not keeping up in an efficient way with the blog. I am, however, still eating quite healthily (well, not healthy eating but plenty of eating), so here we go with a few to the end the 2009 vintage of Cress_Travel.

The new spot Nightwood is attracting a diverse bohemian and foodie crowd to the Pilsen neighborhood. However, my arrival on a wet evening a few days before the winter solstice did not start well. There is no valet parking (which is de rigueur for Chicago restaurants). While typically this is not a problem for me, I atypically happened to be driving in from an appointment on the South Side this particular evening. The hostess told us there would be "ample on street parking", which was not the case. But $10 to the local burrito stand manager secured me a spot for 2 hours that was a mere 2 blocks away.

Feeling a bit flustered from the parking adventure, my dining companion and I approached the restaurant with a cautious gait. As we passed the large plate glass windows and saw a large crowd enjoying hearty dishes, further bolstered by a well structured outdoor area with a modernized fire pit (although the weather made it a but untenable that evening), our tune started to change.

The uber-hip waitstaff seated us and reviewed what is a very affordable and nice wine list as well as an inventive cocktail menu. My lady friend sipped on a "Campfire Sidecar" (which had a unique smoked pear flavor as its twist) as I selected a 2006 Burgundy (Xavier Monnot Clos de La Fussiere, Maranges Premier Cru) at the recommendation of the waiter, which was quite nice (light and paired well with the food).

The layout of the restaurant is very interesting - there is dining room seating, bar seating, a bar-style open kitchen seating area in back, and a separate wine room (in addition to the outdoor seating). The bathrooms are also done in a wholly different style (almost a Victorian house style - think a nicer version of the Violet Hour). We sat in the dining room, but I recommend the large open kitchen bar for diners wanting to get the full experience.

A unique bread basket for an evening fine dining establishment, homemade scones with a honey glaze flavor, were an unexpected change of pace to start.

The hand-written daily menu had a lot to choose from, and so we shared four dishes: two appetizers and two mains.

For starters, a well-flavored "torn" burrata (imported from Italy, not house-made) was paired with roasted pears and fennel and a fresh piece of baguette. The burrata itself was smooth and buttery and went well with the pear/fennel combination.

The second appetizer was an excellent ricotta gnocchi with roasted red peppers and cashew butter. The gnocchi was almost "springy" and had a rich red pepper taste (although not overwhelming as is sometimes the case), and the unique cashew butter "paste" was a real hit.

For the mains, we shared an innocuously titled "pork loin" and the duck breast.

To our delight, the pork loin actually was Flintstone-style - an enormous pork loin on the rib bone with a huge swath of belly attached. This was paired with fresh warmed beets and chopped olives. An amazing, eye-catching dish, but not one we could hope to finish without a small army.

The duck breast (while not as much of a shock-and-awe spectacle) had a great marinade, served with baked beans (with bacon of course) and cornbread, garnished with chopped celery and apple. The baked beans "taste right" and had a nice spice to them.

Overall, a fantastic meal but with one serving gaffe - the duck breast was nearly cold when it arrived (assume this was due to a mismatch on cooking time on the pork). So take a cab and try the chef's "bar" . . . or you will be behind the times as this trendy haven flourishes.

Hong Kong 2009: Lamma Island (Rainbow), Dragon-i

Back in Hong Kong for some meetings (business not pleasure this time) but had the occasion to try a few new spots whilst here. Have some downtime due to the time zone difference, so thought I would share (despite not being caught up on my many other drafts, I know).

One thing you must do in Hong Kong is experience the boating culture. Every day (and especially on the weekends) hundreds of brave junks and sailboats test their mettle in the beautiful harbor amidst one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

A popular destination is Lamma Island, a small fishing village on an island about 30 minutes from Central's public pier. Coasting off in a lazy junk on a sunny day is a great experience, and arriving and open-air restaurants abutting the floating fisherman's huts is doubly so. The fresh fish of every variety sits in tanks waiting for your order. Rainbow (two restaurants on the small cove's boardwalk of probably six total restaurants) seems to be the most popular; it also has a dedicated ferry if you aren't up to renting your own junk. Try the fried calamari, large slices fresh fried in a good batter; the prawns, prepared a variety of ways; and of course the whole fish, served with vegetables and easy to eat - they have "mostly" deboned it for you.

For a markedly different experience, try the nightclub-cum-restaurant Dragon-i just above Lan Kwai Fong in Central. With both indoor and outdoor dining, the "all you can eat Dim Sum" lunch, at about USD$20 per person, is a good value and an amazing alternative to fast food. The service is swift, and the dishes seems to start arriving as soon as your ordr them. Not a buffet-type all-you-can-eat, this is a fresh cooked (steamed, fried or seared depending on the chosen dumplings) option for you to experience good authentic dim sum gluttony. I would say it does not measure up to the Princess Garden in London or Luk Yu Tea House (just a few blocks away from Dragon-i, I think I noted in my last journal from Hong Kong) in pure quality, but has a good "scene" and is definitely an acceptable option for authentic cuisine lovers.

Corfu 2009: Part 1

As I gaze out upon the Albanian coast from my perch in a private villa I have secured for a week's holiday in the mountains of Northeastern Corfu, I reflect on the volumes of unpublished posts that await my avid followers and shudder. This is the first meaningful break I have taken since my sojourn in Hong Kong at the turn of the year (and from which, quite painfully still have a few notable unpublished notes pending). Fear not, gentle reader! This holiday is one of pure relaxation, and should give me ample time to do some much-needed catch-up.

But before I get to that, let's talk Greece. I have spent time in Athens, hiked the Vikos Gorge and Mount Olympus in my younger years, but had never experienced the Greek Isles before Monday.

In the weakened economy, my gal and I decided to take a vacation of extended length to capitalize on the cheap flights and unreserved rooms across the globe. But why Corfu?, one might ask. This isle known for its wide range of visitors; from the backpacking denizens of the Pink Palace to the private-jet arrivals of British Royals and Russian Oligarchs? Does it hold culinary and travel delights away from the cheesy tourist scene of Corfu Town, over populated with Pizza Hut and "real Greek and English food" combo cafeteria?

The answer is a simple "yes" but requires a bit more work. In my search for a luxurious yet affordable ("ITE") spot, I read a review of The Rou Estate (www.rouestate.co.uk - apologies for the lack of imbedded link but trying, for the sake of efficient posting for those thirsty for my modest suggestions, to use this new-fangled iPhone). This little village, reclaimed from the Greek wilderness by some budding entrepreneurs, consists of 10 restored stone villas, formerly the residences of a forgotten mountain town, complete with a town square, a granary (now a massage parlour) and a pool at the precipice of the mountain face (well, okay, that's new). Each of the villas (ranging from 2 - 4 bedrooms all with ensuite bathrooms) is beautifully restored, matching cool stone walls/floors and the smaller doorways/windows of the old homestead with Miele ranges/dishwashers and modern cabinetry and bathroom fixtures. Each villa has its own plunge pool (also new) with a spectacular view of the mountainside, the ocean and the mountainous Albanian coast.

What you won't find: a concierge, bellmen, roomservice, etc. A maid comes once daily, and upon arrival your fridge and hamper will be fully stocked with several bottles of (quite nice) local wines, feta cheese, ham, fresh bread, local olive oil & vinegar, as well as some more "western" goods (chips, cookies, crackers). There is also a few sets of dried pasta and enough produce to make a passable putanesca sauce and finish with local fruits for dessert.

This all makes you feel much more like you are returning to your private home in a small mountain community than going to a vacation villa. I would note that the drive through the mountains can be quite harrowing, on a "mostly unmade" set of switchbacks up from the main road, but once you arrive you feel like you have come to a truly unique, special home.

More on dining, boating and shopping in this area to come. Stay tuned.

Virginia Beach 2009: 456 Fish

A brief update on a nice fish spot I found in my recent travels as I work to slog through my seemingly unending backlog of posts to put out there.

I had travelled to Norfolk, Virginia for an event on an aircraft carrier, which was pretty cool, but the food left something to be desired, so we retired to the trendy block of Norfolk that sports a number of new restaurants and clubs.

We entered the clean, classic interior of 456 Fish (thus named for its address at 456 Granby Street) to, well, have some good fish.

The hour was late but luckily Norfolk seems to have a bit of a late evening scene, so the kitchen was open until 11pm. The restaurant's decor was reminiscent of an older club-style lounge, evoking a newly redo art deco steakhouse more than a well-recommended fish joint.

The short wine list was quite well done, with something for everyone - a good variety of all varietals and regions. We settled on a white (for the fish) despite my protestation that we should opt for a lighter red, but I was overruled. The '07 Flora Springs Soliloquy did the job quite nicely, however.

I opted for the Lobster Spring Rolls, which were tasty and more like egg rolls, with a lot of cabbage and some other vegetables stuffed in with the morsels of lobster. They were a good portion and served with a decent sweet and sour dipping sauce with chili flakes.

I also sampled the Fried Calamari, which lived up to the "award winning" moniker on the menu. Done with corn meal and lightly fried, served with a pesto mayonnaise and a marinara sauce, these two appetizers were both very good ways to start our late night meal.

At the recommendation of the waiter, I chose the Grouper for my main (the special that evening). This dish reminded me why I do like white fish - it was meaty, light flavored and served over plantains and sauteed spinach. An Italian-style tomato sauce complemented the subtle flavor of the fish nicely.

Overall, when we left the restaurant we were very pleased, and although it was late felt very well-served. A prime place to try in this up and coming section of the city.

New York 2009: Hundred Acres

I have often received the complaint from some readers that I am too positive; I counter that I usually write reviews of good restaurants first and add less powerful experiences to my substantial backlog - but they say I should be more critical to ensure my blog has credibility.

So, this Independence Day you will get some credibility. I found myself in New York for the "work holiday" of Friday, July 3rd for some business meetings. So, I tracked down the two friends who hadn't retreated to the Hamptons or some other out of "the greatest city on earth" locale, and made a reservation at one of the places I had been recommended in recent months, Hundred Acres. I have dined at the owners' Five Points previously, and was excited to try their new "farm fresh" cuisine concept.

I arrived a bit early to this french bar meets country-feeling spot in SOHO, excited to see the french doors wide open and the nearly perfect NYC summer day spilling in. I ordered a signature fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice and gin cocktail, and heard about the dinner specials from the friendly bartender.

My friends arrived, they with some other friends who had not been able to escape for the weekend, and our party of 7 was seated at a banquette close to the open french doors. We ordered some Rose to fit the season, and tried to decide what to order from the organic, farm-fresh daily menu.

I started with the unique-sounding burrata with peaches and almonds. It was a great concept, and the presentation looked delicious. I was shocked when I tucked in to the dish, and found the peaches unripe and the burrata of a store-bought consistency. The rest of my dining companions echoed my thoughts - it all sounded excellent, but something was just off.

I had opted for the grilled octopus as a main, with fries. The octopus was over-cooked and over-marinated, and the vegetables served with it seemed to have been steamed to a sogginess normally found in a frozen bag dumped in a microwave. In fairness, the fries were quite nice.

A few of the other entrees I sampled were good, and the burger was excellent. One of the specials of the day, a scallops, were quite nice.

I am hesitant to say this wasn't an off weekend experience (maybe the farms don't deliver on the celebration of our nation's birth?), particularly given the several sound recommendations it had received, but I was pretty thoroughly disappointed in the start of the holiday weekend.

Chicago 2009: Japonais

As usual, I am catching up on my enormous backlog and places from my past. I was privileged enough to enjoy Japonais in Chicago the first week it opened; since then, I have hosted many a client, friend and even several parties at the reclaimed loft space on the river.

This Chicago restaurant has remained a perennial "hot spot", and kept the quality high. This is one of those rare restaurants that carves out a niche of its own and becomes an "old standby". Trendy, good food seems to persist at this River North gem - if you haven't been, you should go today.

When you do enter the half club / half restaurant in Summer, make sure you reserve an outdoor table, either on the terrace in front of the restaurant, or downstairs on the river - a unique spot in the city.

After many meals at this Japanese "steakhouse", I can recommend a number of dishes that constitute a perfect meal.

Begin with the lobster spring roll - crispy and hot, rich chunks of lobster wrapped in a thin pastry and salted lightly with a side of mango salsa are a delight to the senses. Perhaps a richer dish than what one envisions when Japanese cusine comes to mind, but perfection in a hot appetizer.

My favorite speciality of the house from the sushi bar is the Maguro Moriwase - two thick slices of Toro, Otoro and Chu-Toro, succulent parts of the Tuna that are of the highest quality in the Midwest.

Other sushi dishes are well-done and taste as if you were at the fish market in Tokyo - I don't know the secret, but the purveyors of Japonais' seafood are clearly artisans. Other favorites include barbeque pork "manju buns" and various gyoza.

For entrees, the Samuri Tuna Steak and Le Quack Japonais (Roast Duck) are excellent choices. If you make it further than this, you should look to a complete and creative dessert menu, including the signature "donuts with green tea semifreddo", a rich and subtle dish that caps off a perfect meal.

Hopefully, you will find a time to host your friends and family at the best Japanese Steakhouse in the Midwest.

London 2009: Locanda Ottoemezzo

After a long day of fine beer at the Ladbroke Arms, my dining companion and I stumbled over to Kensington Square to experience what she called the "best trendy authentic Italian in London".

Upon entering Locanda Ottomezzo, one is struck by the Fellini-motivated theme - old-school movie posters, many with the "8 1/2" (yes, that's what Ottomezzo means, I think). The restaurant even has its own movie poster, highlighting the intimate, small dining room with red stucco walls.

In addition to the exclusively Italian staff, who speaks a very sexy broken English, the dinner also includes a reasonably-priced Italian wine list (we chose a Pinot Nero from Niedermayr of the 2004 vintage, which needed some decanting but was smooth and delectable).

After we ordered our entrees, we gorged on fresh bread with LO's own olive oil - peppery but smooth with no aftertaste. We started with a fresh mozzarella and ripe tomatoes (housemade and silky - the cheese, not the tomatoes, silly) - a very well-done traditional Italian dish.

The speciality of the house (which my companion ordered) was the risotto with mushrooms. What makes this simple dish the house favorite is that fact that is it scooped table side from a massive Parmesan wheel - exquisite presentation and flavor to match.

I am a sucker for fresh noodles and the homemade papardelle fit the bill. The realization that this was a true fine Italian restaurant was the veal ragout - the sauce was surprisingly light; an elegant sauce

We were stuffed from our long day of imbibing both London's fine drafts and subtle Italian dishes, so we skipped desert, but were treated to light, homemade biscotti as we finished our wine.

Overall, a perfect Italian respite in the heart of a nice London neighborhood. Even if I used "homemade" too many times in the review, it exemplifies this fine little restaurant tucked away in the Kensington neighborhood.