Hong Kong 2008/2009: Series Post 3 (China Club)

One of the highlights of my trip was an excellent group dinner at the China Club. This private club (most good hotel concierges have access) was founded by Shanghai Tang owner David Tang in 1991. The club is located at 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building in Central, Hong Kong. While the club is not one of the grand dames of the Hong Kong old-money scene, it has the authentic feel of being a hundred year-old plus institution, modeled after the original China Club in Shanghai.

The bar has a kitschy, art deco look merged with classic club decor. While we waited for our table, an outstanding duet performed American and Spanish classics while waiters in formal Shanghai-style uniforms serve generous portioned drinks, and are supremely attentive, but not intrusive.

After a few cocktails, we alighted to an elegant, Chinese-themed dark wood dining room. As we prepared to sample a large range of dishes chosen by our host, we were treated to two traditions at dinner at the China Club: Tea Dancers (ceremonial pouring of traditional Chinese teas) and the making of fresh noodles by the chefs.

Shortly after the noodle demonstration was over, perfect portions of a range of dim sum and appetizers began marching out to our party. Jellyfish noodles with spicy chilies, BBQ suckling pork and fried shrimp wonton amused our palates while we gazed over the stunning Hong Kong skyline.

The main dishes were even better than the excellent dim sum. The Peking duck, moist and tender, was served with paper-thin pancakes and exceeded my expectations. The crisp beans and pork were an amazing dish. The eggplant hot pot had a woody flavor, and was very elegant but a bit outside my normal taste buds. The chicken with chilies had a very nice heat and flavorful spice. The sweet and sour chicken, prepared in a "standard" way (read: Americans will recognize it), was very good. The E-Fu noodles are a must-try. The sole sour spot on the menu was hot and sour soup, which was a bit too thick.

The China Club is a very special spot, and a must for anyone seeking a serious formal Chinese dining experience in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong 2008/2009: Series Post 2

Close to Hong Kong sits a well-known Special Administrative Zone which is easily reachable by hydrofoil (not hydroplane!). It is in many ways reminiscent of every "Special Administrative Zone" globally that allows for gambling, and it is in many ways completely different.

Packing an overnight bag for Macau was not particularly challenging; I had one dinner to attend, 24 total hours in the SAZ, and knew well most of the attendees of the small entourage. I have spent many hours in casinos and was familiar with the (lack of) required formal attire. I must admit, what I did not understand was the many ways in which Macau is truly different from other cities focused on that sometimes-considered-immoral sport of gambling for money.

One cautionary note - even though Macau is physically, temporally and politically actually in the same country as Hong Kong, a passport and a long line of immigration both coming and going is required. Someone tried to explain to me why we needed to spend 25 minutes in line having our passports checked before boarding the boat, then 45 minutes when we landed (apparently they don't want me to lose all my money!) and then the same in reverse, but there is no sensical reason. Put it to a lot of history and political machinations of a reclaimed set of islands.

Upon clearing the second immigration / customs stop, we were finally ready to get down to business (at least in my view). Rambo (yes, I couldn't resist - his name tag prominently stated his given name as Rambo and he is gratefully pictured below) from the Wynn picked us up in a shuttle bus to take us to the Wynn; it was a mercifully short five minute drive (reminiscent of LVNV) from seaport to casino floor.

We checked into the Wynn (which has a striking lobby, again reminiscent of LVNV) and agreed to meet back down in the lobby in 30 minutes. By this time, it was nearly 4pm, and I was itching to try my luck at the tables.

However, when I returned to the lobby of the hotel (which was also, in its Vegas-ness "just this side of tacky" as one of our entourage noted), I was informed that gambling was not the first order of business here in Macau. We were going furniture shopping.

Faithful readers, I was certainly a bit jet lagged from my long journey, having only slightly more than 24 hours in Asia to get settled, and the boat and multiple immigration stops may have muddled my mind, but I heard correctly. Furniture shopping. Not at all like LVNV.

Before we headed to the antique-laden shops and what was dubbed "pork alley" by our crew (more on this later) we took a short taxi ride from the Wynn to the ruins of St Paul's (pic below) and the Fortress atop Macau. It is probably useful to buy a guidebook and get some of the history en route, but I didn't (hence my bewilderment as we scraped ourselves away from the shining strip of the gambling area), and since some rely on me for this very purpose, here is the short version:

Portugal:Macau as Britain:Hong Kong as France:Fine Dining. They took it over for a while and then gave it back. The cuisine of Macau (see below) reflects this. There are some churches there, they love them some Christmas (no "Happy Holidays" in sight, just lots of Christmas ornamentation), and they make a lot of "antique" furniture. Also, they built a pretty good replica of Las Vegas in about 5 years' time, and we still don't have a working third runway at O'hare. Helpful?

The St. Paul's ruins are actually quite striking, and sit at the top of a hill buttressed by an impressive fortress on one end and a slew of pedestrian-walkway streets (a very Spanish, or I suppose Portuguese, feel) on the other. Within these streets were dozens, nay, hundreds of "antique" (some real, many fake) shops. The prices were unbelievable. For a fraction of the price of any IKEA do-it-yourself kit, you can get handmade, high quality and antique (in appearance if not in provenance) furnishings. A must-do for any savvy shoppers on a trip to the region.

I was going to write a bit about the "pork alley" but I recognize this post is getting a bit long in the tooth and it is time to start another day here in Hong Kong, but needless to say there are a lot of street vendors selling pressed and jerked meats, along with custard pies (a Macanese specialty) in the alley below St. Paul's.

Now, for the morsel you have all been waiting for - where to eat? Predictably, the major casinos (and they are all there - Wynn, MGM, Venetian, etc, etc) have fine dining. I would say the Wynn's Red 8, on the casual side, had some GREAT late-night dim sum as I nurtured my gambling losses (reminiscent of LVNV). But the culinary focus of a trip to Macau should be to explore the Macanese cuisine: Portugese-influenced fare with heavy Asian inspiration.

Litoral (yes, that is the correct spelling) is a clear destination for anyone with food on their mind. The new restaurant (built as a separate location from the older, harder-to-find original spot) evoked for me feelings of a rural Greek family tavern. An open room with stucco and dark wood beams, a serving station directly into the cooking line, and large wooden tables to enjoy a family-style meal. Our native Macau experts took the lead on ordering a veritable smorgasbord of dishes, ranging from well-prepared and spiced seafood (garlicky shrimp, cod cakes, steamed clams and grilled grouper) to savory stews and meats (Feijoada, a dish with pork and beans; charcoal grilled steak). The service was attentive and the family style dishes were served as soon as they were ready, with steadily flowing wine to make sure no one was parched. The desserts (egg yolk souffle, chocolate mousse) were not particularly unique or in keeping with the Macanese theme in my humble opinion, but were quite tasty. I would highly recommend this venue for a great group dinner in Macau - and a real taste of the diverse cultural traditions in food on this island now primarily associated with gambling.

So, as I recuse myself to head on to the next adventure, please see a few photos of the magnificent "architecture" of the strip, as evidenced in the original Stanley Ho Lisboa and its recent expansion, the Grand Lisboa. And yes, I would go back. For furniture and for blackjack, but most importantly for a little Portuguese-influenced Asian cuisine with a group of friends.

Hong Kong 2008/2009: Series Post 1

Dear readers, I am writing from the general area of Hong Kong / Macau / Kowloon as I am off on holiday for the beginning of the New Year. As is sometimes my habit on long trips with significant experiential value, I will not be doing my typical format of each restaurant or event, rather, I will post as a series. Hopefully this format will be useful as they allow the narrative of my trip to unfold in the region.

To start, I really must commend Cathay Pacific airlines. I had a tremendous and (much needed) restful flight on my way over. Great attendants, lots of things to entertain me on the long journey to this famous gateway of Asia.

Upon arrival, I made my way to my hosts' home on "The Peak". It is interesting to note that Hong Kong has a bit of a funny layout, dictated by its mountainous island geography. The Central area is the business and financial district, and also a place where a number of the finer dining and shopping establishments can be found. Mid-Levels is largely a residential area, with little to do outside of visiting people you may know there. The Peak is also residential, but is also the site of an important tourist attraction, its namesake peak. The Peak Hong Kong will better delineate this for any travelers, but as touristy as it is, it is a must see. The Peak Tram runs from Central to the Peak Tower, which has a full shopping and dining area along with the trademark panoramic views. I was further lucky to be staying with friends who live just above The Peak, so I was treated each day to the wonderful vista.

When you arrive at the top of The Peak, leave the tourist-ridden mall and cross the Peak Road to The Peak Lookout for a great dining experience with amazing views of the lush, verdant mountain scape that flows down to Aberdeen (originally a fishing village, now a bit more modern). Our group sampled the shrimp spring rolls and calamari as appetizers (the calamari have just the right amount of breading, not too much, and a great sauce) before enjoying a variety of other dishes, including sushi, a naan bread sandwich and Indonesia fried rice with shrimp and egg. All were very solid dishes. Good waitstaff, a long bar list and a great view make this the right way to replenish after the oh-so-arduous tram ride from Central.

Los Angeles 2008: Shima

Tucked in the trendy portion of Venice beach (the part with a La Jolla-on-weed feel, not the New Jersey-on-steroids bit) I was introduced to a fabulous find of a sushi restaurant on Abbot Kinney.


Shima (with no apparent website, but located at 1432 Abbot Kinney, and can be reached at 310.314.0882) is an organic, local-ingredient focused (not as hard in LA as elsewhere given the sushi-based menu). They had a very nice, short sake list; my dining companion and I opted for the Dewazakura "Nama genshu", which was lightly sweet, but clean and dry. An excellent match to every dish we tasted.


My friend had dined at Shima in the past, and we pitched the menus and requested the chef's omakase (tasting) menu.


The omakase consisted of 10 total courses, detailed below. To a one, they were well-executed and made of the freshest ingredients. On the margins, I could find a few nits to pick, but overall a tremendous meal displaying not only the fine art of simple, good sushi but also some innovation and inventive dishes.


Course 1 - Toro Tartare with black roe, topped with chives in a soy broth an served in a martini glass: a very nice star to the tasting, delicate with a creative presentation.

Course 2 - Spanish Mackerel salad, with ponzu sauce: a solid dish, with a salty and sharp sauce.
Course 3 - Maine Lobster ceviche with cucumbers and avocado. The lobster was firm and spicy/citrus sauce: very tasty, but also very bold and tart. That said, the sake cut the flavors nicely.
Course 4 - Red Snapper carpaccio with truffle oil and lemongrass: An adventurous course and bold for a traditional sushi house. A very well-done dish, and I award extra points for the contrasting flavors and the concept of truffle oil with sushi, generally.
Course 5 - Homemade Tofu Steak: Crisp outside, silky inside, a little less flavor than I would have liked but a perfect execution of textures.
Course 6 - Grilled Abalone with mushroom and asparagus. Unexpectedly flavorful with a hearty mushroom sauce and perfectly cooked Abalone.

Course 7 - We sampled two non-traditional Miso soups; neither stood out to me, but a good break late in the meal.
Courses 8 and 9 - The meal was rounded out with a high-quality selection of sushi (I even liked the Uni which I typically do not). The chef also asked us if we wanted to try a handroll, and made us one of spicy tuna; the stand out from this final dish was the crisp and light seaweed, with none of the "chewiness" one typically sees from many sushi restaurants.
Course 10 - A finishing sweet course, a gelato-like non-dairy surrounded by various fresh fruit. It had a semi-fredo texture and some tapioca and coconut flavors, a good cap to an excellent, long meal.

I would run, not walk, to this hidden gem in Venice if you are in LA, before it gets too swarmed.

Chicago 2008: Sepia Update

Whilst I still have about 45 posts in draft form due to a terrible travel schedule, I felt compelled to skip enhancing my readers' culinary vision for a moment to pen another few words regarding Sepia. I think I have mentioned before that Sepia was hands down my #1 new restaurant in Chicago back in late 2007; since that time, it has only improved. Like the fine and eclectic wines that they have picked for their continuously refreshed wine list, this restaurant has matured beautifully.

I have taken the occasion to dine with clients, family and friends alike at Sepia no less than 15 times this year, and each time the menu is executed to perfection. The staff is always knowledgeable, courteous and fun. Many of my dining partners have said that the pork chop is the best they have ever had, hands down. And these are pork people. I myself am partial to the game dishes that rotate through the entree selections. Most recently, I sampled the Elk Chop, which was a large-portioned, perfectly cooked and seasoned masterpiece for the Winter-y months. In addition, the always amazing grilled calamari dish is sure to please first-time diners.

So, I entreat Chicago-area folks to sample the amazing cuisine of Chef Duque before he is whisked away by the Obamas to Washington as has recently been rumored.

Los Angeles 2008: Beso

In the late days of 2008, I had the occasion to be in Los Angeles and was lucky enough to gather with friends to celebrate the holidays at the cavernous, dimly lit Beso.

Eight gents gathered for a mid-week boys night out at the celeb-heavy spot by Todd English (and Eva Longoria). We spotted a few star athletes and my fellow Clevelander Drew Carey noshing on the "latin-inspired" cuisine.

For starters, the menu has a nice list of appetizers and shared plates. We sampled a very good guacamole with crisp tortilla strips, crispy lamb ribs (amazing and must have - crispy outside and tender inside with just the right spice of peanut chipotle sauce) and a nice selection of hand tacos in all varieties (fish, vegetable, steak and pork).

As the entrees arrived, we swapped out our cocktails for a spicy yet light syrah recommended by the waiter. I had a fabulous portion of whole branzini, with sides of sweet pot tater tots, asparagus and mashed potatoes. All were excellent, particularly the sweet tater tots. The branzini was prepared simply and whole with salt, pepper and oil.

A surprise finish to the meal, fresh churros with sweet cream were brought out to the table. We finished them off quickly, and ended the evening stuffed from the many courses.

Additionally, the real star seekers should stick around for the later night scene at Kiss, the upstairs lounge at Beso.

A well-done addition to the LA scene.

New York 2008: iCi

On an unseasonably warm winter morning in early December, I walked across DeKalb Avenue in the Fort Greene area of Brooklyn with two locals to grab brunch at iCi. Meaning "here" in English, iCi is a charming, crowded French bistro style restaurant on the garden floor of a building just a few blocks from the park, and it feels almost a bit foreign and out of place...the format, interior and, importantly, food, exuded a true sense of Europe (they even eschew credit cards at brunch, a poor European trait).

iCi focuses on local, organic and farm-fresh ingredients to create its largely French Country menu. After a nice mug of decaf (not very European), I tried a glass of Rhone which turned out to be quite nice. My dining partners had the more traditional bloody mary start to their Sunday, which I understand were also quite tasty.

The menu is simple and fairly limited - a few egg dishes, a few bread dishes and some sides. This is a good thing, as the short description of each dish made me very indecisive. I finally opted for the poached eggs with truffled grits and cheddar. The large bowl was stuffed with the aforementioned ingredients, and very flavorful. I would note, however, that the thick mixture of grits and eggs with rich truffle and cheese notes was lukewarm; the dish would benefit from a bit more prompt service once out of the various pots and pans. That said, the chef has designed a dish that echoed both French and American comfort food. Particularly when paired with the "Bacon with Fat" side dish - thick, fat pieces of bacon almost as succulent as pork belly. A must have.

My companions had the french toast (with apple and pear compote), shirred eggs (which I had never heard of) with collard greens, and a side of chicken sausage. The french toast was well-done with a thick brioche and steeped in sweet syrup. The shirred eggs took the gold medal though. In addition to the described collard greens, the bowl (same serving as my eggs and grits, but piping hot!) was overflowing with a bechamel sauce and chunks of the "Bacon with Fat" mixed into the eggs. I had a one forkful and was certain of what I order on my next trip.

I applaud the efforts the owners are making to support local, fresh ingredients and the eclectic, tasty dishes they have developed (at least on the brunch menu). A few tweaks to the service (to adjust the temperatures, of course) and a more rational credit card policy (they do take credit cards at dinner, just not brunch) would make this a perfect breakfast spot - an old world menu, new world ingredients, and a hip location in burgeoning Fort Greene. Give it a try, and don't miss the bacon.

New York 2008: Chinatown Brasserie

The onset of Winter always brings memories of family feasts; heavy, aromatic meals and comforting food in an atmosphere of close relatives and friends. I made my first trip of the cold season to New York this week, and had a hankering for Chinese food.

Chicago doesn't have good Chinese food outside of the small Chinatown on the South Side. To be clear, there are many good *Asian* dining opportunities, and I would be remiss if I didn't note that the Peninsula's Shanghai Terrace has a excellent Chinese cuisine. But for some reason, New York is just different - the pure Chinese restaurant (no Pad Thai, no pan-Asian noodle dishes, no sushi) is an art form. Outside of Asia, I know no better Peking Duck and Dim Sum than inside the borough of Manhattan.

So, yearning for some real Chinese cuisine, I called up a few friends and had a nice Chinese banquet at the downtown Chinatown Brasserie. CB is one of the better Chinese places in New York. I prefer Shun Lee for Peking Duck, but this is a great place to explore all the variations of Dim Sum.

The lush interior evokes the feel of a real formal Asian dining experience, the service is somewhat slow, but adequate. The menu is varied but not too voluminous as some Chinese eateries seem to be.

One of my friends who frequents CB did the ordering; we had all of the major food groups - Pork, Chicken, Shrimp, Beef, and, of course, the Peking Duck.

There were so many varied dishes that it is hard to recount them all, but the highlights of the meal included the soup dumplings (tender pork and crab mixture filled with broth in a perfectly cooked dumpling), the turnip tofu with spicy sauce, and the chicken with crispy fried spinach.

The Peking Duck has less meat than crispy fried skin, but was solid.

Overall, a nice way to start the Wintery season, a solid meal for anyone craving Chinese after a long respite.

Chicago 2008: Province

I was perusing my backlog of drafts, and realized that I have over 40 items I have yet to properly post. For this, dear reader, I apologize. I am hopeful that I will be more diligent in posting in the coming months. With that lame apology out of the way, I bring you my latest dining experience.

New last week from former Nacional 27 chef Randy Zweiban comes Province, a LEED-certified, open space in the West Loop which incorporates green building materials and kitchen equipment, and stresses farm-to-table cuisine from local producers.

The service started off the evening right. From the minute our server came to introduce the South American cuisine and various "categories" of the menu, the service was exemplary. The manager and Chef Randy both came to chat with us at various points during the meal. In addition, the manager spent a good deal of time helping us pick a wonderful Tempranillo (Campillo, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain '94) which was well-aged, still acidic but with great flavor. Very unusual in this day and age for a new restaurant to have such a good selection of older wines.

We decided to explore the different types of servings outlined on the menu: Bites, Raw, SoupsSalads, Small, Big, Bigger.

After we ordered the wine, the chef sent out an amuse bouche: smoked salmon, cucumber, olive with chile cream cheese. A nice gesture to start the meal.

From the "Bites" section (which are about the size of a passed appetizer) we sampled the Mini Pork Sandwiches, which were good but served a little too cold, and excellent, crispy Squash Taquitos with a delicious chive & mayo dressing. Next came the "Small" section of the menu, which were more "normal" appetizer size. We sampled both the Fluke & Grapefruit Cerviche, which consisted of slices of soft and tender fish laced with a citrus and pepper flavor throughout and an order of the Shrimp & Manchego Grits, which were smooth & creamy with firm, grilled popcorn shrimp (perhaps our favorite dish of the evening).

The "Big" dishes are akin to a half order of a normal sized entree, and the "Bigger" dishes are regular entree portions. We had a few of these eclectic dishes, to try the range of interesting combinations that have been put out by Chef Randy - Lamb with Cornbread & Chorizo (Lamb is a bit too gamey, cornbread with chorizo very good); Rabbit Confit with Garlic & Almond butter (amazing flavor, but I would lose the celery); Slow-Cooked Salmon with Leeks (decent, good flavors, but served too cold).

Overall, an ambitious environmentally friendly newcomer with great service, and with a few tweaks, a stellar menu.

Cleveland 2008: Table 45

Situated (somewhat oddly) in the Intercontinental at the Cleveland Clinic (I guess doctors at conferences and long-term patients' families need good food too), Zack Bruell's Table 45 is a spacious and open format, with niches carves across an expansive room, done in blond woods and dark letters.

While they were out of both of our first two wine selections, the entire waitstaff was extremely helpful and brought us a bottle of Torres, Mas Las Plana '97, which was a nice Bordeaux-styled South American with good earth tones. The waitstaff (numerous) were highly professional and amazing throughout the meal (terrible state of the world that this is *such* a surprise), but I applaud them.

The Naan of the Day, a fontina cheese naan, was a gracious portion and served with three sauces (tomato, hummus and a curry aioli - all very spicy).

The menu was substantial, and themed with many Indian flavors. We had a large party, but highlighted a range of dishes, including Scallops, Indian Peking Duck, Lamb and Venison.

I myself sampled the Tandoori Pork Belly, the Crispy Calamari and the Maple Glazed Venison with Bacon and Pumpkin Spaetzle.

The calamari was a bit too heavily breaded, and I would have served it with the curry aioli. The Tandoori Pork Belly was excellent, and the cumin-scented rice and bok choy was well-paired. One of our party also raved about the Beet Salad.

The entrees were universally well-prepared, with visual elements highlighting the Indian theme. The venison was much less gamey (and 'chewy') than a typical venison dish. The pumpkin spaetzle was quite nice, as was the sauteed spinach. I sampled the duck, which was very good (albeit a bit fatty) as well.

In sum, a shining high-end Star of American-India in the hospital district, with a few things to work on. But the service and several good dishes more than compensate for the 'room for improvement'.

Chicago 2008: Publican

A beer hall dressed up in couture fashion, the spacious market district addition to the numerous nightclubs that line the meatpacking corridor, brought to you by the creators of The Violet Hour and Blackbird, is off to a strong start. Fresh faced and attentive servers help fill the spacious, german-styled hall across from the Fulton Fish Market, which has been christened the Publican.

Large, communal tables of sharp-looking wood ring the outside of the room, while the East wall is adorned with booths (replete with swinging doors) that sequester you from the balance of the room if you have a party of four (similar to the reserved boxes in Oktoberfest tents in Munich).

The draft beer list includes eight varied beers (three locals, some fruity Belgians, a festival German, and an esoteric coffee-based beer as well as a cider); the bottled beer list numbers about another sixty, and is organized by country and representative of a well-thought our selection of craft beers. Wine is also available (but you should not come if you need it, the experience is really best with beer).

We started with a ham tasting - rare and fine Iberico (true to the menu: rich, nutty and sweet and worth the $35 for the tasting), an 'Iowa version of Iberico' (good but not as rich), and a Tennessee ham with a smoky flavor. Served with thin-sliced German brown bread and unsalted butter, a nice way to start a meal (although we couldn't resist also sampling the pork rinds - served hot with just a dusting of salt & vinegar, they would have delighted Homer [Simpson, not the Greek] at his brightest moment of food bliss).

For a main course, I took on the crispy sweetbread schnitzel, which was very mild versus many sweetbreads I have tried. The lemon & caper sauce, coupled with a rather thick breading, was a bit overpowering on the palette for such a rich organ meat, but it was a substantial portion and a very nice meal despite lacking the delicate nature of a typical sweetbread preparation.

My dining partner opted for the potee (pork shank, belly and tenderloin) served with mushrooms and a horseradish aioli. I tested the belly for him, it was excellent and a gracious cut - and the sauce paired quite well.

Despite the orgy of (unhealthy) beer hall noshing, we also opted for dessert, a crisp, flaky waffle with a fresh churned butter honey and figs - resplendent, particularly paired with the Norwegian Winter ale we sampled alongside it.

One constructive criticisms (which a few faithful readers have asked me to be 'less polite' on) would be the side dishes need some work - the frites were a bit 'vacuous' in their crispness (although the aioli dip was amazing); I would also not order the cavalo nero again (too bitter).

Overall - a good joinder of old world and new world, and a good time will be had by all who attend. Prosit!

Chicago 2008: La Madia

I stumbled upon La Madia with my brother and his wife a few weeks back, and was shocked to learn that this inexpensive, high-quality Italian in River North had been open for some time. Hidden (well, not really) at 59 West Grand, this stylish spot tries (successfully) to make pizza elegant and wine accessible as represented in the motto "Art of Pizza. Love of Wine."

The space has a nice, modern decor, and is well laid out in partitioned rooms for that 'always crowded' feel. Sharp, varied light fixtures impress and the open kitchen makes the restaurant feel personable despite the modern flair.

The waitstaff was helpful and very excited about the menu, making good recommendations on appetizers, pizzas and entrees. However, the assistance on the wine list was not as useful ("all our wines are good").

That said, the wine list has a wide variety of very good bottles, with price points ranging from a $19 Spanish Temparnillo to a handful of big Italians (Ornelleia '04, Tignanello '95/'97) and some top shelf Americans (Quintessa, Dominus). I was impressed by the range and also the accessibility across diners' wallets, particularly the specials by the glass.

We tried the Avignonesi, Nobile di Montepulciano '05 based on our server's recommendation (but that was really to drink something off the list). It was decent, a little lighter than expected, with some tartness, but a good bottle to pair with the appetizers.

We started with a special appetizer of the day, a taleggio-stuffed fig wrapped in prosciutto with frisee. It was nice and looked decadent on the plate, but the balsamic sauce was a little on the salty side (and this is a big thing for me to say, as faithful readers know - I prefer the taste of salt to most all else).

This was followed by the recommended (and excellent) heirloom beet salad (yellow and red), with arugula, salted almonds and gorgonzola dulce. A really tremendous set of ingredients and preparation, with a nice dressing - thin shaved beets, great flavor across the dish. We paired this with an heirloom tomato (red and green) caprese; the bufala mozzarella was solid but I could do without the addition of roasted peppers. It had a strong basil flavor with very tasty (and peppery) green tomatoes accenting the more traditional heirlooms.

At this point, I would point out that these appetizers were too much along with the bread for the three of us - the portions of both salads were immense, and we were just getting to the good stuff.

At its core La Madia is a fancy pizzeria. We ordered three types: taleggio with roasted vin santo grapes; 'Triple pepperoni' with truffle oil (a strangely excellent mix of flavors balanced by fresh basil); and a housemade fennel sausage with mozzarella.

All of the pizzas had superb flavors and toppings. While the crust was a little, well, crusty for my tastes (not as salty/soft as I prefer), my dining companions thought it was just about perfect.


I complement the chef on his selection of such unorthodox combinations of toppings, cheeses and spices - the flavors explode in your mouth and are really unique and tasty.

Check it out, try some new wines - but save room for the pizza, no matter how tempting the appetizers all look!

Chicago 2008: Duchamp

I had the opportunity to sample Michael Taus' new spot, Duchamp, in the old Meritage space in Bucktown/Wicker Park. On this first visit, my dining companions were two newlyweds celebrating their return to fine Chicago cuisine from their honeymoon, so we sampled a range of the items from the menu.

The intimate space is laid out with communal tables, and the decor is warm and modern at the same time. Small candles and dishes of various types of salt line the tables, lending to a subdued but convivial atmosphere.

The wine list was interesting, with a selection of affordable wines from every corner of the globe. We ordered a wine none of us had ever tried before at our server's suggestion, a 2004 Saint Emilion, Chateau des Laurets. The wine was good with earthy undertones, and relatively inexpensive.

We started with a lobster & mushroom pizza, which was a tasty, thin crust and flavorful mushrooms and sauce.

For a main dish, I had the bouillabaisse, which was decent, with a light browth including bok choy and mushroom, and generous portions of sea bass, mussels and rock shrimp.

The newlyweds tried the pork shoulder and the "steak and eggs". The pork was served with a puttanesca sauce, and lacked flavor - tasting a bit like wet tomatoes. The Duchamp version of "Steak & Eggs" was excellent, with grilled skirt steak and a parmesan–smoked bacon quiche & roasted shallot sauce

A fun new spot with solid, savory dishes that are perfect as Chicago's cold weather blows in.....

Paris 2008: Le Pre Catelan

While Frederic Anton's Le Pre Catelan is a bit hard to find (at least the taxi drivers claim), nestled in the middle of the Bois de Boulogne (a la The Boathouse in Central Park), it is well worth the search. Once you arrive at this fine set of mansions buried in the park, the staff quickly whisks you into a set of uniquely-styled rooms (I dined in the art deco parlor room) to begin what will undoubtably be one of your more memorable dining experiences.

Several dedicated waitstaff hovered helpfully (i.e., not too intrusively) around the table, helping make such critical selections as type of water, butter and wine.

While the salted butter doesn't top the rich Normandy crafted slab at Taillevent, the experience and food compared favorably to that perennial favorite of mine. To start, the approachable and direct wine master helped me to choose a half bottle of Puligny Montrachet to start (guided me to the 2005 for a clean and subtle white to start the meal) and was then quite patient as I hemmed and hawed before choosing a rich Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1990 to go with the main course, which was a bit tart but very good.

I would describe the meal as traditional French with flair; not going so far as the experimental cuisine that is avante garde these days, but sticking to 'versions' of classic, rich French cuisine.

An amuse of onion cream with pea soup was served neatly in a saucer shortly after my wine order(s) were placed. The onion flavor was very soft, and the pea pronounced. This amuse was a wonderful initiation, and, as I would later realize, it was highlighting two ingredients that would span throughout the meal; across various dishes, the chef sought to use fresh ingredients and maintain a consistent theme of the season.

My dining partner was kind enough to split both appetizers and entrees with me, so I was able to get an even deeper sense of the menu the chef sought to create.

For appetizers, we chose the "La Langoustine" and the house special "L'Os a Moelle". Both were superb in form, creativity and execution. A stunning set of courses.

The four large prawns were each served separately, in four dishes with four tastes and preparations. The first was in a ravioli with mint foam and cracked pepper; then "hot stone" grilled (and left on the searing hot stone on the table); a tempura with a spicy chili sauce that evoked the best dim sum houses in the world, and a liquefied romaine salad which balanced the chilies; and finally and baked with broccoli foam (which seemed almost 'plain' after the other three, but was indeed delicious and perfectly cooked).

The L'Os a Moelle was a triumph and coalesced many of the themes the chef was trying to evoke that evening. Three large bones, each half the length of the last, arranged in a bouquet. The tallest and widest bone full of rich, warm marrow, served with a small side dish of sea salt to melt the flavors into the palate. The other two bones, with some marrow gravy, we chock full of spring peas and chanterelles, both fresh and nicely paired against the richness of the marrow.

After this grand display, the balance of the meal seemed 'normal', but in fact continued as a highly stylized exercise of the best French cuisine has to offer.

We chose two rich specialties of the house: the pigeon and the sweetbreads. Despite the warning by the waiter that the chef's pigeon, the specialty of the season, might be too 'gamey' for mere Americans, I took the plunge and was not disappointed.

The pigeon arrived in two courses; the first was a top a crusty, long sliced baguette, with morsels of breast meat pasted down by a rich foie gras 'dome' covering the dish. The head, neck and leg of the pigeon were also presented, with the head split and the brain left in, sauteed for dining pleasure, all surrounded by a single, long macaroni with a paint of spring pea puree. The dish outwardly appeared gamey and adventurous, but was a good reflection of a French peasant delicacy. The second course of pigeon arrived in a silver domed bowl; two succulent pieces of breast meat, cooked medium rare, in a broth of truffles and (again) spring peas. This was topped off with a pigeon meat ravioli.

My dining companion chose the sweetbreads (which she had never tried, and I applaud her enthusiasm for this new experience). These were served in three decadent ways: a generous portion (think a large crab cake) fried with parmesan (almost seemed American!), another large slice fried with mushrooms, and a set of small 'bites' with celeriac puree (my favorite). Overall, two exciting and sinfully rich courses.

But it didn't end there, of course. A monstrous cheese platter (perhaps 20 selections) was wheeled to the table. We loosened our belts and selected a Comte, a Camberet, a Monbier, and an Essbier. Great to a one, and served as a good accompaniment to finish off the wine.

For dessert, we asked for guidance of the house, and were admonished to quickly order the "best souffle in Paris". We also selected an espresso cake (just to make certain we could write a complete assessment of the restaurant).

As I imagined a warm souffle perfectly prepared, the sommelier selected two dessert drinks, a Vieux Rivesaltes, Recolte '74 and a more recent vintage Chateau Coutet, Sauternes.

When a large, glassy-looking apple arrived topped with silver foil alongside the molten cold chocolate and espresso ice cream tower in a clear, thin sugar glass, I expressed confusion. However, this delicate green sphere certainly was the "best souffle in Paris". A cold, citrus souffle in the sugar apple hid even more surprises: similar to the more edgy Homaru Cantu dishes, the chef had included a pastry bottom laden with "pop rocks" providing a fun and unique end to a fabulous meal.
All I can hope for is that I am able to find this oasis in the park on my next trip to Paris.

Chicago 2008: graham elliot

In the gutted space that was once home to my first real fine dining experience (the sadly passed Harvest), a new modern foodie paradise has sprung up. Ranking top among the Summer 2008 new arrivals on the Chicago scene, the cool, rough hewn interior of graham elliot (after the chef, Graham Elliot Bowles) is as refreshing as the lemons and limes framing the room. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are showcased simply in frames in lieu of art, and elicits an immediate wonder and anticipation of the meal. Don't go here if you, like so many poor souls, have an irrational fear of citrus - or if you don't dig music a bit too loud during dinner - as these are critical elements of the laid-back ambiance of the dining room.

The service was very attentive and the servers quite pleasant, clad in jeans and black tees for a more casual feel, but still getting the hang of things (as expected in a new restaurant).

As the occasion was a going away dinner, we were anxious to try the much ballyhooed (no, I don't really know what that word means) wine list. There is a good selection of value-priced bottles and glasses, well laid-out in order to allow the uninitiated to pair wines by food type. However, the reserve list for the more savvy wine enthusiast is lacking; limited list and only newer vintages. All said, we had a wonderful bottle of champagne (Rose Laurent Perrier) to start and a decent Neyers 'Ames', Napa Cab '05 (which was too young to drink, but very tasty).

After several great suggestions from our waiter, the food began rolling out. Replacing the traditional bread and butter on the table was a fresh bowl of popcorn with a savory tomato and cheddar flavoring. For starters, our table tried a range of salads and hot appetizers, including heirloom beets served with a whipped goat cheese; a "non-traditional" caesar salad served with "twinkie" croutons (a toasted brioche filled with liquid cheese); well-cooked scallops with peas and a carrot yogurt sauce; and an amazing truffle gnocchi.

The fish entrees we sampled were good, but not great. The Hawaiian Wahoo and the BLT Salmon were both well-prepared but overly strong on flavorings. The chocolate brownie dessert was an excellent finish to the meal.

New York 2008: Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Tarrytown)

Tucked into the beautiful preserve of the Rockefeller Estate in Westchester County, Stone Barns is a working farm in a carefully manicured setting. When arriving at the Blue Hill restaurant, which occupies one side of the sprawling stone barn compound, your mood is set by the sight, sound and smell of this largely organic cornucopia of natural ingredients from which chef Dan Barber picks his nightly menu.

Blue Hill is wildly popular not only with the denizens of the wealthy Manhattan suburbs in which it resides, but also legions of young, hipster foodies who trek to the rural setting of Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills (just outside Tarrytown) to sample the fresh and unique tasting menus.

So, be prepared to make a reservation far in advance and wait a bit for your seating. That said, strolling the grounds and absorbing the natural scents of the farm, or retiring to the cozy bar area set with rustic furniture just outside the converted dairy barn which is the main restaurant to enjoy with a signature cocktail helps alleviate any stress born of the frenzy of the host stand. The one major complaint I had about the evening, however, was the achingly slow service in the bar area; inattentive servers made waiting for one of the bartender's inventive seasonal fruit and herb based cocktails a tad uncomfortable.

This was, happily diametrically, opposed to the service in the modernized barn that we were led to shortly after our appointed time. Greeted by an efficient waitstaff, each with an area of speciality, our journey into a rather unique tasting menu began. The creative menu layout (no courses proffered in the two tasting menus, just a broad list of farm-fresh ingredients) allows one to specify things that might be off-limits (for example, our party had a woman infected with that pregnancy thing that seems to be going around, so several of the more adventurous fish and cheese ingredients were no-nos). Of more importance and unique to this dining experience versus other "tasting menu" spots, they asked which of the ingredients listed that we might like better than others. Kind of a tasting menu that is completely customized to the customer. Finally, after guidance is solicited to help the chef create a perfect tasting for you, there are two other courses that can be added to the five or eight course menu - a charcuterie and a cheese course. Both were excellent and true to the organic, local farm spirit of the menu.

In addition to the novel take on a tasting menu, Blue Hill has a solid wine list, including a few unique and older wines. The sommelier is very knowledgeable (but prone to peacocking, he needs direction or will give you the full history of every wine, vintner and vintage on the list with equal enthusiasm) and the list is clearly his creation and the wines on it are sacrosanct. We enjoyed a very nice White Burgundy to begin, a 2004 Domaine JM Boillot (Puligny-Montrachet) which had a light, mineraly taste with just a scent of grass, followed by a truly special 1976 Rioja from Vina Bosconia Cosecha, which could have passed for a Grand Cru Burgundy or even a light, well-aged Bordeaux.

In addition to the rather unique menu concept of personalization of fresh ingredients, the dishes themselves further informed the talent of the chef and the connection to the land.

We began our march with a few well concocted amuse courses, including a tomato and cherry water gazpacho served with fresh peas (in the pod); asparagus "pops" with pancetta and fried sesame: and spring pea "burgers" w/ light mint mashed into a sweet mini bun. The final amuse was a razor-thin disc of "pork face" bacon, crisp and served standing on edge in a slotted wooden board.

The breads (of which I consumed far too much) were simple but perfected; country-style bread slices served with a farm-made butter and little dishes of salts (celery, asparagus) to self season.

The aforementioned charcuterie plate was a great mix of fine meats, well done toasted bread. Truly craft copa, bologna and pate were a great harbinger of the meal to come.

The dishes that followed did not disappoint: delicate Bonita sashimi with pickled rhubrab; an unspellable (by me right now) Chinese vegetable that was a combination of Bok Choy and something more leafy with a hint of pepper in the stalks, wilted with morels and a soft-boiled egg; Blue Hills Pork (Belly, Boudin Blanc and Loin), with fava beans (just a bit undercooked on belly, but a tremendously flavorful Loin). The (unanimously voted) star of the evening, however, was the Ricotta Ravioli. The house-made Ricotta was of the perfect consistency, temperature and flavor: sweet and salty at once on the tongue. Ensconced in a hand-prepared, al dente ravioli shell, and served with nettles (they really are edible), peas and royal trumpet mushrooms. I have to mention further the peas - they were so fresh and well (lightly) cooked that they were reminiscent of caviar "popping" on the palate, a truly well put together dish.

Our memorable evening ended with the cheese plate (a nice selection from organic farms around the country), a cherry and elderflower sorbet, and strawberries and cream merengue with goat cheese ice cream.

In summary, the dishes were uniformly well-executed and presented; the waitstaff was helpful and knowledgeable but not intrusive; the venue is truly special. A very worthwhile trek to suburbia, even for those who frequent the best the Big Apple has to offer - and perhaps, upon reflection, why the bar service mimicks a New York hotspot's practiced ignoring of the guests - to help ease big city folk into this little slice of gourmet in the country.

The experience ranks this restaurant in the Cress_Travel top 10. I must thank my suburban friends for dragging me to this amazing spot late on a summer's eve.

Cleveland 2008: Downtown 140

Cleveland, well, more specifically, the small town of Hudson, Ohio, has been graced by "big city" dining. For years, my travel to my hometown of Cleveland had been plagued by no fine dining; then by some solid, but perfunctory steak and Italian upscale joints; most recently, a rash of "hip" and "trendy" restaurants have exploded, but they have mostly been the type that couldn't have made it in a major metropolitan market ~ second tier spin-offs to a land of untested palates. Finally, at long last, the real deal has arrived in this idyllic New England-looking village in between Cleveland and Akron.

Shawn and Tiffany Monday's Downtown 140 is an amazing respite from the fine dining chains that have cornered the market on meals costing more than $25 a head in the Cleveland area. Amazing dishes crafted in a tiny open kitchen are a testament to Shawn's creativity and efficiency, whilst Tiffany manages the crowd and has hand selected one of the best wine lists in country, literally.

Shawn proffers hand made soups to order, amazing "by the piece" tastes (grilled figs wrapped in prosciutto and stuffed with goat cheese, tempura shrimp, market fresh sashimi with delightful spicy sauces), and a range of ever changing appetizers and entrees, with a focus on organic, local ingredients (I have had excellent fish, steak, veal, chicken in my numerous visits there). The dishes alone put this restaurant into my "Global Top 10" alongside names such as Alinea, MOTO and Bouley Bakery.

To further inform my comment on the wine list, I did indeed say it - this is one of the best wine lists in the country, period. I said it - a robust selection of not only the "French standards" (think Latour, Ducru, Margaux) and new world high end wines (such as Quintessa, Cheval des Andes, Nickel & Nickel) but also up and comers that Tiffany has introduced me to - which I consider (perhaps with some hubris) to be no small feat. I saw wines such as Rocket Science here before it came to frequent the lists of New York and Chicago fine establishments, as one example.

These two are a team which solidified my decision to put them on the Cress_Travel top 10; it has the powerful combination of Shawn and Tiffany to seize the imaginative palate and delight the oenophile, and a well-trained, friendly and knowledgeable staff that makes my increasingly regular meals here when in Cleveland as enjoyable as any in the major culinary capitals of the world.

Chicago 2008: Sixteen

The new gem in the half-finished Trump International Hotel & Tower in Chicago (the coiffed man's first namesake project in the Windy City) is a fashionable addition to the Chicago culinary scene. Sixteen is located on its namesake floor in the hotel portion of the new Trump, and stepping out of the elevator makes for a dramatic entrance, with a hallway ensconced by the well-stocked wine cellar of the restaurant. The architecture and interior design generally is quite impressive, with a bar, side dining rooms and a main dining room that feel both intimate and expansive at once; excellent views from any perch, and well-chosen decorative art placed in the various angular and curved coves that define the form of the dining space.

The impressive view of the fine wine list becomes less impressive when one sees the prices - with a New York buyer perhaps come New York pricing on very recent vintages; some are quite mispriced, as it seems whoever laid out the cellar priced the list for shock factor and by name alone; a modest vintage of a well-known French wine, for example, exceeded by multiples some of the finer vintages of wines that most wine lovers would agree far outshine the former. That said, the new sommelier guided us through an excellent pairing with several wines I had never had - and was also good humored and knowledgeable (more on that later). The service, generally, was solid and very attentive waitstaff (if a little new to the menu) met our every need.

And then the food and libations - my dining companions and I opted for the mysterious and alluring "blind tasting" (with aforementioned wine pairings). The waiter noted to us that we might not want to partake of the homebaked bread and excellent butter, given the girth of the tasting menu, but we ignored him, finding a nice selection of rolls just the thing to start the meal (although this certainly did add to my girth).

The blind tasting was artfully done; a well-timed (rarely does the kitchen do it as well as Sixteen's does) set of ten dishes. A small amuse of Melon Soup with scallop cerviche was a decent first course, but should have been served in a shot glass to better mix the flavors rather than with the wee spoon. A gazpacho with raw oyster and and tomato sorbet was paired with a 2006 Shaleur Estate Sauvignon/Semillion Blend, which worked quite well. The fabulous-sounding braised beef shank tortellini with split peas needed a bit more tenderness in the pasta, but was complimented by my favorite wine of the evening, an Elio Grasso, 2003 Barolo, which had a great nose and a light finish. We switched back to a sweet white Alsatian Riesling by Hugel for the next dish, a scallop with corn vinaigrette, palm souffle and vidalia tart. A Lupe de Mer served with confit of potato and fava beans was quite nice, although the potatoes were a bit ho-hum. The crowning dish of the tasting, "Pork Three Ways" was delicious and paired with a wine, to quote the personable sommelier, that "technically doesn't suck", a Domaine du Grand Tinel. The balance of the well-portioned tasting included cheeses and sweets with ports and muscats. All in all, a very nice evening. I commend the new chef and staff on a top-tier service and culinary experience in a world-class venue - and hope to be blinded again soon by their next tasting menu.

San Francisco 2008: Dry Creek Kitchen

Well, ok - not really San Francisco. Sonoma, a bit of a drive from the cosmopolitan environs of SF, has developed its own culinary scene in an understated way which mimics the rural landscape. Much to the delight of visitors, Charlie Palmer has come to the region and started a "city class" restaurant in Dry Creek Kitchen (albeit with some weaknesses that are not evidenced in his other locations).

While the food was well-prepared, I do have some misgivings about this attempt to transplant world-class fare into the laid back, insular Healdsburg community. The location, on the town square of Healdsburg, is ideal - and the design of the restaurant is becoming the stature of the named proprietor. However, upon making a complicated set of reservations for a relatively large group, we were greeted with aloof service and management, a big disappointment and uncharacteristic of this beautiful part of the country. The night began and ended with waitstaff and management that seemed hasty, and a touch this side of rude, despite a number of attempts by this diner to give them the benefit of the doubt.

Enough said - it may have been a bad night, and the restaurant was quite packed. The dinner service started with a pleasant cheese puff amuse - delicate and well plated. I then opted for a surprisingly light Gnocchi with almost no sauce, but which well-represented the flavors that the chef was trying to evoke. A solid Sea Bass entree followed, paired with spring pea risotto. This was a decent, but not excellent, dish. I also sampled the lamb with a Moroccan spice, it had no taste of game, and carried the sauce well.

Continuing my gripes with the service, the sommelier, who was sent over once my wine order seemed too complex for the server, was a bit flaky. He had no real opinion on the wines on the list, and after we finally were able to order a few bottles, he returned 10 minutes later dejectedly to tell us that they were out of our chosen wine. Once we re-ordered, about 20 minutes into the sitting, we finally received the wine, which was spilled on me while pouring for the taste.

All in all, this is probably a nice restaurant to enjoy for a nice meal on the Healdsburg "scene", but I would urge you to sample the food on a quiet evening and a small group, when the service is not so stressed.

New York 2008 - Moco Global Dining

Sitting in the last meeting of a terribly long week I was disgusted to receive an email telling me my flight back to Chicago was cancelled, there were no bookings available on later flights (and those were likely to be cancelled too, given the "Chicago weather"); I would need to spend my Friday evening in New York. Whilst I was run down from a series of back to back meetings and flights, it could have been much worse. I could have been stuck in my prior night's destination of rural Pennsylvania. Despair became opportunity.

I rang my good college friend and his very pregnant wife, who, bereft of social opportunities other than waiting patiently for their soon-to-be-indeterminate-sex-offspring, finally conceded to join me at a new, "experimental" restaurant in the otherwise "post-college professional" Murray Hill neighborhood.

I had heard of Moco Global Dining (no website) from a number of "what's new" reviewers in April; the chef of this small, understated establishment, Joe Kurauchi, had apparently trained at El Bulli, the Fat Duck and Stella Maris, among others. I was intrigued to see if his cuisine would be the next generation of the inventive, rich and savory dishes I have come to love at those establishments.

Upon entry I was . . . nervous. A sparsely populated bar, completely empty dining room (Friday 7pm) in an otherwise bustling block did not bode well. I had expected a line out the door (my hotel concierge had made me the reservation, I presumed 'pulling some strings' given the last minute nature). Unfortunately, it was not my "clout" that had gotten me in. They merely had no early reservations. A few younger folks were in the bar area, but when three waitstaff swarmed me as I moved toward the back dining section I grew even more uneasy - had I, a bona fide foodie, been fooled by some hype and now had dragged my poor friend and his nearly immobile wife many blocks out of their neighborhood for a second class show?

I was seated (another scary thing in a NY restaurant - seated without "the entire party"), a lone diner in a small (typical New York) dining room, at a lovely banquette. Very comfortable. The tables already looked quite worn (3 weeks post-opening: query - budget-style or budget?) and the waitress arrived promptly with water.

The drink menu was extensive (3 pages) and filled with ShoChu and Sake options; I was again dismayed by the bad english translations "Croudy" instead of "Cloudy" Sake, etc. However, when I ordered a glass of Ginjo sake I was pleasantly surprised - a real artistic presentation that was a harbinger of the food to come - a fine crystal class in a glass carafe, filled with shaved ice surrounded by a banana leaf. Very high quality presentation gave me a renewed sense of hope.

My friends arrive (I hope the expectant mother doesn't take offense to my earlier jokes, she is glowing, mobile and athletic despite being close to her delivery date) and sit at out booth. We are still the only diners, and they look suspicious, being denizens of this fickle food city. We order some appetizers and some more sake (of course none for the responsible mother-to-be, she was all seltzer and cranberry) as the crowd started to trickle into the dining room.

The appetizers arrived: squid-ink, jet-black calamari; steamed edamame; nya-nya chicken wings and a fusion bruschetta. All excellent. The calamari particularly show the chef's potential - crispy yet succulent center, despite the black coloring which evokes naturally a "burnt" vibe.

The pace of the dinner was very casual; waitstaff did not crowd us or hurry our ordering, but as soon as one looked up, they appeared to serve (I would note that our female dining companion, in more discomfort due to her biological situation, was less impressed with the speed of service than I). As we choose our main courses and sake was refilled, I was feeling somewhat redeemed in my choice of venue.

The entrees were excellent - an inventive green gnocchi with a butter sauce; soba noodles in a rich curry broth; several sushi rolls with varying levels of creativity and success (the spicy tuna was some of the best I have had; the "blue california roll" was interesting, but heavy-handed on the namesake blue cheese ingredient; the roll with salmon and eel a bit too smoky). All in all, an honorable meal with great style and flavor. A true glimmer of what this chef could do with, perhaps, some more coaching and a better venue.

As dinner came to a close, I reflected upon what makes a great meal. While I was not "wowed" by the restaurant, I had an excellent meal that married exotic tastes in a casual environment, resulting in a very fine experience with some good friends. While I think this chef's next incarnation may improve greatly with some marginal tweaking of location, style of venue and precision in menu, all in all a worthwhile endeavor. Someone to keep your eye on.

Chicago 2008 - Big Jones

Service is critically important as I evaluate a dining experience, especially for a new restaurant. Big Jones started my Sunday brunch off right, seating me immediately (even though I was the first of my party) and tempting me with a bowl of fresh beignets and one of the largest cups of coffee I have ever seen.

The eclectic 'Coastal Southern Brunch' at the Andersonville upstart is inventive and true to one of Big Jones guiding principals - organic, local veggies, produce and dairy. Don't let me fool you into thinking this is a healthy spot - its organic, but savory and sweet and all things in between.

A wide array of unique selections, from french toast made with classic southern pan bread to a number of egg-based (Kalona Organics from Iowa) benedict-style dishes with exotic ingredients such as lump crab, creole ratatouille, carolina pulled pork and house-made Tasso (smoky-flavored Southern ham), made it a tough decision for this first-time diner. The continuing friendly service helped me narrow down my selection to Eggs Romero (Poached Eggs, Crisp Potato Cakes, Pulled Pork and a tangy sauxe) or Eggs Benedict (Niman Ranch Ham and Poached Eggs served on a fresh popover with Hollandaise). Your trusty foodlover went for the more intriguing Romero, and was excellent. Strong flavors in the spicy Carolina-style sauce, including nutmeg, may turn off more sensitive palettes, but the pulled pork was well-cooked and the eggs paired well with the crispy potato cake. Skip the Lunn toast; it is a bit dry, but otherwise no complaints about the cuisine.

Tea lovers will enjoy the large selection of specialty organic teas, evoking pleasurable feelings by name alone; 'Inner Blossom Jasmine' or 'Osmanthus Rooibos' or 'Dragonwell Green'. The traditional Cafe au Lait is also a house speciality.

Definitely worth the haul north for a casual brunch.

St Louis 2008 - Niche

So, faithful readers, it has been some time since I have posted.  Blame it on the terrible Winter in Chicago, I just haven't been compelled.  I have notes for about 20 new posts, and as I am feeling somewhat more inspired, you should be getting a spate soon with all of these new ideas.  

What has driven me to post (other than the weather, which a loyal reader like SS knows is a favorite topic of discussion) is a truly "sensational" experience I had last night on the cusp of the up and coming independent restaurant scene in St Louis (yes, Missouri).  For the moniker "sensational" I must really hand credit to my London dining companions on this fine evening.  These worldly travelers proclaimed many of our dishes at Niche as such, and I can't think of a better way to describe Ford Craft's new American gastronomic spot on the edge of the Old Soulard neighborhood. 

Fresh off the Food & Wine proclamation of Craft's Niche as one of the "10 best new restaurants in America", I was lucky enough to enjoy a night in the hands of the chef.  All aspects of his celebrated tasting menu were touched over a four hour dinner extravaganza.  I rarely detail each and every course, but this night warrants it, and will do so below.  All of these dishes are served a la carte, and many can be found on the fun and affordable "3 for $35" menu that is available daily.  

What makes a restaurant eligible for Cress_Travel's global top 10 is not just great food - many places have that.  It is a sense of space and an attention and care of the experience that justify such an entry; Niche has all of the elements, executed to perfection.  I am pleased to place this fine establishment in its new spot as the ranking #5 on Cress_Travel's top 10 restaurants to experience.  

In addition to the lavish care put into each delicate dish, the staff is exemplary.  From the front of house manager, Dia, to the knowledgeable waitstaff (Laura, in our case), to the carefully selected but not expensive wine list, Niche is a real culinary treat.  All these factors make a trip to St Louis to experience this fine venue a worthy endeavor - and if you are in St Louis, there is no excuse to not plan on this restaurant as a highlight of an evening.

So, now to the food.  The masterfully executed tasting menu included the following; any and all deserve to be ordered separately and savored.  There was only one dish I would not nominate individually against any other incarnation in any other restaurant in the world - the Thomas Keller inspired butter-poached lobster, which was just not my style.  Everything else would hold its own and then some, regardless of your specific tastes and prejudices.  Here is the tour de force I had that pleasure of winding my way through on a rainy Spring evening in the earthquake-rattled St Louis:

* Olives served fresh with thinly sliced orange rind: I am not an "olive person", but I munched with pleasure at these fine taste bud openers as we enjoyed a very un-chardonnay chardonnay from Lucia in the Santa Rosa valley.

* Amuse bouche of Parsnip, Bacon, Grapefruit foam latte with plump tapioca: Delightful flavor packed into a complex broth with the right amount of texture to make it substantive.

* Kampachi Crudo, Potato Chip, Soy Marshmallow, meyer lemon and pepper puree: Fish was excellent, paired with a salty, tart and savoy combination all in one!  The pinnacle of good execution.

* Roasted Beets, Poached Quail Eggs, Brown Butter Hollandaise, Quail, Caperberries: Sweet and savory, perfect beets.  People should use beets more.  They are the Chilean Sea Bass of 2008.

* Fried brandad, arugula, Quail egg, lemon butter:  I have never liked anything like a fish cake (the term my London-native dining companions use for a brandad). This blew my mind. Salted cod, fresh cod, perfectly cooked, lightly breaded.  If you abhor the idea of a fish cake, or aren't one for crab cakes, try it anyway. 

* Lobster, butter-poached, lobster tapioca, blood orange sauce:  As referenced earlier, I didn't love it, as the texture of lobster produced a mouthfeel that was too soft for my liking, but if this is the worst dish one ever has in a progression, you are close to heaven for a food lover.

* Carrot-Lime Sorbet: Well-executed, great mix, too tart.  Having written the initial reaction, I must go on; taste changes as one savors this break in the progression to quite a crescendo, rewarding the patient palette.

* Sea Bass, Black Rice, Meyer Lemon Puree:  Using sous-vide preparation, this dish took sea bass and turned it into a meat, added texture that highlighted the flavors of the dish.

* Lamb Prarie Grass Sous-Vide, White Chocolate Hummus, Trumpet Mushroom, Raw Garlic Foam, Rhubarb:  Again here, the sous-vide preparation took a solid base of flavors including the unusual white chocolate hummus, rhubarb and garlic foam aspects and combined them with a gamey lamb meat to achieve a great dish.

* "Beef Two Ways": Roasted ribeye and oxtail pie with Brussel Sprout slaw.  The use of Brussel Sprout as a "slaw" was ingenious.  A perfect way to deal with the strong flavor of the vegetable and contextualize the beef.

* Lime ice cream and rhubarb soup: Light and refreshing for another break in the progression.

* Coconut Kulfi: A reduced, thick, indian dessert with granola and pineapple.  Pineapple flavors tend not to suit me, but the kulfi texture was amazing.

* Chocolate Cake: The molten variety, warm in the center and firm on the outside.  As a dining companion noted, it touches the inner part of the inner soul.

Then, after being stuffed like a pig for slaughter, no pun intended, we shared at the table two more of the house favorites:

* Pappardelle with Pork:  So, maybe the pun was intended, but the house made pasta was excellent, firm and moist, with a pulled pork ragu that was not too strong to overpower the dish.

* Fried Pigs Head:  You caught me.  The pun was totally intended.  The somewhat scary name pulled together the cheeks, temple and other head bits into a fried cake with all the sophistication you need to make a dish like this work.  Heavily vinegared flavor cut with a pear. A little punchy, but having been braised in sherry vinegar and pork stock, something even a less-adventurous diner would crave.

To sum up my long and rambling post, Niche is a rare find in an off the path culinary haven.  The chef is truly a student of the art, and infuses this passion in his staff, making the experience a great one.