Chicago 2008 - Happy Chef Dim Sum House

Chicago is a city of unique neighborhoods and niche-y restaurants. I have always been disappointed that many of my friends and colleagues have never explored the many fine dining experiences available in Chicago's Chinatown.

Take a bus, train or cab down to Archer and Cermak, where the "main street" of Chinatown is centered. There are a number of great, authentic eating places where you can experience as much or as little of China as you want . . . they range from the very "normal" American-ized Chinese, to adventurous forays into the most mysterious of Chinese delicacies.

One of the very best of these places is the Happy Chef Dim Sum House at 2164 South Archer Avenue (just East of Cermak). Happy Chef is open seven days a week from 9am until 2am, so there really isn't any excuse not to make it down there. One enters through a parking lot "back door" of the Archer Avenue mini-mall which houses tens of similar restaurants. The Happy Chef is unique in that it has some of the best cuisine in Chicago.

As you creep into the back of the restaurant, you will not be awed by either traditional Oriental-kitsch found in a restaurant of this type, nor higher-end Asian flair that drapes the likes of Shanghai Terrace further uptown. You will be greeted by a busy staff shuttling large, steaming dishes of recognizable and unrecognizable to simple white tables covered with plastic. Not romantic, not cozy, not even comfortable. But the food will make you forgive all of that.

If you are not Asian, or do not speak fluent Chinese, you may have a bit of a challenge communicating your order. However, once you choose from the vast menu (ranging from traditional "Americanized" dishes such as Kung-Pao Chicken to a Live Frog dish), things start moving quickly. Complimentary hot tea and soup arrive as you wait for the bountiful dishes you have selected. The portions are huge, and the taste authentic. Having spent many months in China, I can tell you that will find the ingredients and preparations to equal the casual restaurants of the Cantonese style.

In addition, there is an extensive Dim Sum menu for those who prefer the variety of dumplings for which the Happy Chef takes its name; however, I like the traditional Cantonese, family-style dishes at which this establishment excels.

Note: Sunday night dinner "dessert" consists of a pea-soup looking tapioca with sweet beans; it looks like a heavy sauce you might have with a black bean sauteed fish, and probably something you will tepidly taste at first, but it is a nice cap to the meal of a warm, sweet soup.

Chicago 2008 - Follia

Bruno Abate's West Loop fixture Follia has charmed my senses and delighted my palate since he opened this outpost of true Italian cuisine several years ago, and I once again had the perfect trendy and authentic meal this weekend. Bruno's motto "cibo e moda" is a nod to the up-and-coming fashion designers he showcases in place of art in his funky ristorante.

Situated next to Fulton Lounge (a good place for a pre-dinner drink), Follia serves up fresh pasta (the parpadelle is my favorite), house made mozzarella and dried meats, a delectable pizza, and traditional Italian entrees including a fine Branzino, Scampi Al Forno, Tagliata and Veal Scaloppine. The right mix fresh-made food and flair makes Follia a versatile place to take a hot date or have a family meal!

The wine list features an impressive array of Italian wines, ranging from modest priced glasses and bottles to the best Italy has to offer.

Desserts continue to please the discerning patron; an excellent cheese course and fine Italian traditions make a pleasant end to the meal, as does the robust selection of limoncellos and other after-dinner drinks.

And lastly, the most important feature of the restaurant, Bruno himself; he is an extraordinary host, and every single patron will come away each and every visit feeling like they are a "VIP" guest in Bruno's private club. He has a remarkable skill as a host and as a creator of fine cuisine and wine pairings; I am proud to call him a friend in what can sometimes be an "industry" of food service, Bruno brings it back to basics - and makes you crave your next visit.

London 2008 - Tom Aikens

Tom Aikens probably hates me. No, definitely. It turns out that last night I was that obnoxious guy who reserved the private room for a small group (less than "allowed") and then proceeds to actually drink the aperitifs, wine pairings, and dessert wines that fold into the "Classic Menu", so as to become very drunk and further boisterous. Luckily, the private room reservation allowed them to sequester me in the back of the venue with no contact with the more upstanding patrons.

I have to say, as both a testament and a critique (for its own sake), that the wine pairings menu was more robust than any I have seen. At El Bulli, Alinea, WD-40, Moto, etc they typically pour a 1/3 to 1/2 portion of wine per course. At Tom Aikens, the *very* attentive servers probably tipped the bottle closer to a full glass + . . . which pleased me, but as we approached dessert, we were still trying to catch ourselves up to all of the fine wines that were served.

As you can tell, the night didn't end up quite as civilized as expected, but that can't erase the memory of the inventive and strongly-flavored dishes that Tom Aikens (owner and chef) pumped out of the kitchen. Despite the language barriers (I think they hire exclusively French service staff), the dishes were on the point - stark, strong reflections of the concept that was articulated on the menu. I also must complement the strength of the service staff not only on describing and delivering the menu, but also accommodating the less experienced / less adventurous diners at the table. Despite the blasphemy of changing the "Tom Aikens Classic" menu, with fluid ease the servers helped our friends navigate away from Foie Gras and Pig's Head dishes.

As a side note, the Pig's Head dish was actually not a pig's head. This was quite a surprise to me, but it was more of a "Tour de Pig"; excellent trotters stuffed with marrow, perfectly flavored and textured pig's cheek, fried pig's ear and seared pig's belly.

The fish dishes were elegant but overpowering in flavor - stay for the sauce but don't mistake it for healthy. The more savory dishes were true to form and paired well with the heavier wines that came toward the end of the progression. As my friend AC will say, the "pop rocks" lollipop dessert thrilled (enough for a repeat).

Definitely a place to return; two Michelin stars well-deserved, and kudos for allowing a group of Yanks to go wild on a Friday night, with impeccable service to cover our faux pas . . .I need to put a special note out to the server who *attempted* to bring in the cheese course to this inebriated ship of fools; thanks for the discretion.

London 2008 - George

I have been invited many fine times to the proper type of British club in the city, but on this mild mid-Winter trip to the UK, I was finally able to slouch on one of the comfortable couches at George (no link to ensure exclusivity?) and dine on some fine morsels with friends in the intimacy of a private club, rather than a restaurant, in central London.

According to members, THE George is widely known as an exclusive spot in a nice part of town (I agree) and the owner does traffic in the right circles (owner also has the spots Annabels, Harry's and Mark's). . . the only offensive thing about the place is that it is described as a "Nantucket-Style Brasserie". I mean, what does that even signify? Does anyone from the US, particularly from Nantucket, know what they are getting at?

They certainly don't, so I will help them:
Upon entering The George, one feels very comfortably at home; not the snobbish "city club" feel you have in NYC or Chicago, but more like the "trendy group of friendly folks" vibe you get at Casa Tua in Miami (with shorter men and women). . . . The high-end bar food is delicious; lightly friend whitefish, mini-burgers, frites and tartare all well-executed, and, in keeping with its private club nature, the service is discreet, friendly and "punctual" (in that my glass was never dry).

If the proprietor Mark forgave my review of above, I would probably join this fine establishment to maintain an uncompromising spot to host friends and clients in the London scene; however, I don't know if I could make the mark of this exclusive enclave, and so remain anonymous to preserve my blog's integrity :)

Houston 2008 - REEF

As I gingerly crept through one of Houston's more "up and coming" neighborhoods trying to locate the 2600 block of an obscure street, I noted the parallels with development in other cities; older neighborhood turned business district turned warehouse-heavy now sprinkled with a handful of luminaries of culture - trendy cuisine and art galleries. However, the differences were also striking ~ Houston's vast sprawl puts this neighborhood nearly 30 minutes from my downtown hotel in very light traffic on a warm but rainy winters eve. . .

Arriving after a few bad one-way street turns at the funky REEF, I was pleased to find both attentive service and an urban edge of decor. The restaurant caters to a later-evening set in Houston, both the corporate types and the trendy illuminati who frequent the newest places in any environ.

Prompt service of all dishes, and impeccable knowledge of the menu and solid seafood make this a now-favorite of mine in Texas' third city of dining (Dallas outshines with a number of noteworthy spots, and the Austin underground is always a place to find a special spot). Perfectly sauteed scallops, firm and well-garnished Salmon, delicate yet savoy shrimp rolls, and an array of raw bar delights make REEF the right place for fresh fish in Houston's new district.

Chicago 2008 - we

I had always thought the subdued bistro that sits in the W Hotel City Center was a French-sounding, American-spelling play on "yes". However, to my dismay, I learned when preparing to post this entry that the restaurant believes its style to be a homage to a Tuscan-inspired steakhouse "ristorante" (hence the full name ristorante we). Luckily, my disappointment in having incorrectly explained the concept innumerable times to friends does not carry over to my views of the fine "bistro".

When one enters the subtle, rich decor at we and sinks into one of the comfortable banquettes or lounge chairs which ring the oval tables, you feel both ready to relax and enjoy a fine meal and wine. we is a particularly great find when you are wandering around the somewhat-desolate-on-the-weekends Loop district on a cold, wintry afternoon.

The only complaint I have about the comforting decor is that it is somewhat interrupted by a bit too much power in the over table lights. Forgiving this, however, is quite easy when the service staff approaches with the menus.

The staff is incredibly accomodating, and allowed our group to order off both the breakfast and lunch menus. Even just stopping in for food, you feel like a hotel guest. The food, as usual, did not disappoint; innovative and perfectly executed. Beautifully prepared and presented pesto eggs dotted with small boules of hand-crafted mozzarella and a pancetta "moon"; light, thin blueberry pancakes served with crispy bacon; a think and juicey 'steakburger' with scrumptious truffled fries glistening with melted parmesan.

A great standby for the denizens of downtown on the weekend, before a show, or for a fancy "bistro" (no, I won't stop calling it a bistro) lunch during the business week. . .

Chicago 2008 - Bin 36

So, it feels like a week of "oldies but goodies" in Chicago. Similar to my last post on Blackbird, I had not been to Bin 36 for dinner for several years. When the wine tasting plus dinner-themed spot opened next to the House of Blues back in the early 2000s, the mission was consistent with the current mantra of de-mystifying wines and making a variety of high-quality grape drinks available to the non-oenophile public.

Bin 36 is noteworthy for a number of facets; it has a sleek design and double high space that feels "new" even years after opening, it has an excellent and knowledgeable staff which stays true to its mission of providing wine novices with a broad selection of varietals from around the world by the glass.

Tonight, I arrived VERY fashionably late (after appetizers, apologies to SM, AK and CM) and had a solid flight of "global reds" (a nebbiolo, a bordeaux blend, a grenache and a syrah) with pork and potatoes. For dessert, we shared a range of classics; creme brulee, chocolate cake, rice pudding and a cheese plate; each paired by our server with an appropriate and unique after dinner drink or wine.

The food was disappointing, and not great. I remembered why I didn't come back more frequently ~ while the wine concept is fun and the service exemplary, the food is just fine. For those who want a neat experience, good to try it out, but those with higher gastronomical goals trend toward other Chicago chefs.

Chicago 2008 - Blackbird

It has been many years since I have frequented the hip Near West Blackbird, with sleek interior and new American cuisine. Frankly, I have been surprised by its longevity, as many similar restaurants in this area and genre have come and gone (Grace, D. Kelly, Mar y Sol, etc). However, while all of these restaurants had inventive cuisine and good execution, none has had what Blackbird has achieved on the service and business front of the house.

Blackbird remains a "top" spot in Chicago restaurant because its cuisine stays contemporary, whilst its dedication to service and the business of being a restaurant remain stable. Over the past decade, I have visited Blackbird many times, as both a dinner guest and for more corporate functions in its edgy and convenient private upstairs.

I hosted a dinner tonight in the private room, and arrived nearly 45 minutes early, surprised (pleasantly) to find a specially made sign pointing me to a separate entrance for my private party upstairs. Rather than the typical "your event starts in 45 minutes", I was greeted with excitement by the staff, and offered a cocktail. This high level of service continued through the event. Numerous guests arrived late, but accommodations were made seamlessly. Chairs and tables added without utterance; truly a professional place.

The food did not disappoint; celery root soup with grapefruit and pecan garnish, a traditional French salad course with ouef & lardons; both the flat iron steak and monkfish were excellent entrees. The sides with the entrees could use some work - for example, the mushrooms and fruits paired with the monkfish were too sweet to command a complete flavor for the dish. However, the dessert course was tremendous; a miniature fried loaf of bread pudding was paired with a sweet yogurt-flavored ice cream dollop - comprehensive and well thought out.

In all, it is clear why this almost-West Loop icon remains on the top of the heap after a decade; a reminder that one should often revisit favorites that have long-survived the "new on the scene" rush.

Chicago 2008 - Sepia

As I climbed into a cab to meet a group at the new hot restaurant, I thought to myself, where is 123 North Jefferson Street? I don't remember ever going to anything on Jefferson, much less a restaurant. And don't all of the president streets run East / West?

Well, my first trip to Jefferson Street was a memorable one; 123 North is tucked into a largely business district just west of the Loop. When I pulled up to the new "hot spot" Sepia on a rainy but warm (for Chicago) Winter's eve, I was greeted by a comfortable, subdued interior of a former early 1900s print shop with sepia-tones (Sepia, get it?) and pictures of Chicago history. The light fixtures cut against the interior to some extent; kitschy chandeliers surrounded by a translucent mirrored oval adds some edge to the look.

Sepia sports some of the best service staff in the city; immediately upon being seated, we were presented with the extensive wine and drink list. In addition to some excellent cocktails (try the Sepia Mule), the wine list was filled with little known, limited production organic wines.

The menu is also focused on local, organic-farmed ingredients. The selection of flatbreads are seasonal and a great way to start as you mull the broader menu. For appetizers, the tartare (again, organic) is fabulous, as are the hand-made pasta with rock shrimp. The grilled octopus is flavorful and perfectly cooked. For entrees, our group had an excellent Kona Kampachi (the fish of the moment), a well prepared Elk steak (very tasty and not gamey at all) and Guinea Hen.

Throughout the meal, the service continued to be exemplary. Desserts were solid, and consistent with the themes of the organic, local ingredients. Definitely worth figuring out where North Jefferson is . . .

New York 2008 - Pinkberry

Following a nice, earthy dinner on a global-warming influenced 60-degree January evening in NYC, a quest was laid before me without my knowing.

"Have you ever had Pinkberry?"


I didn't, a bit ashamedly being a lover of food, even know what a Pinkberry was; I was soon to learn it wasn't a thing but a place - a new, exciting answer to the ubiquitous Tasty D-Lites that drape the NYC dessert scene.

After some considerable time trying to locate one in the area we were in (two calls and many blackberry searches led us disappointingly to several "Swirling Soon" Pinkberries), we happened upon a popular location in Koreatown , with a 30 minute wait to get inside.

The inside was also packed along small tables next to the line with a young, eclectic crowd spooning delicious looking mixtures in large groups. The hip interior in light wood, whitewash and funky lanterns lead us to a cash register, where we under significant time pressure (for my novice self) to order as the line continued to pile up behind us and around the block.

Pinkberry offers two flavors, Original and Green Tea. The Green Tea is not the light, scented green tea sweetness that one often finds in a green tea-based dessert, but a heavy, smack you in the throat deep steeped (not even sweet) green tea flavored yogurt. The Original is a sweet version of frozen plain yogurt; a bit tart but delectable, with a lightness not found in the oversweetened fro-yo parlors one typically finds across the country. For toppings, a range of "trendy" fruits (think pomegranate seeds, blueberries and kiwi) are mixed with a few staple toppings (chocolate chips and shaved coconut) as well as some childhood delights (Cap'n Crunch, Fruity Pebbles).

Had I to do it over again (which I am sure I will) I will be more thoughtful about my choice of toppings (3 standard with a normal size), as blueberry and Cap'n Crunch struck me later as a bit peculiar, but definitely delicious. So, line up for your shot at the newest dessert place in NYC, and look out for Swirling Soon in your neighborhood.

New York 2008 - Irving Mill

Tucked away on 16th street between Park & Irving is an inventive New American in the old Candela space. Although I commented to my fellow diners that the rustic decor and waitstaff outfits looked a bit "theme park" (Old America meets Bavaria), the service and food are true to the interesting decor. A solid approach to traditional dishes, including much seafood and game (no beef here), is very well-executed.

The appetizers include several seafood dishes and some salads / vegetarian options, as well as a terrific grilled quail married with cheese grits. All well-prepared and quite tasty. For entrees, most of my party opted for seafood options, and everyone was delighted. The Monkfish (whilst a bit small on portion size), Cod and Artic Char were all excellent. The Duck was seasoned with some spicey-ness, and cooked perfectly. In particular, the Artic Char was some of the best I have had, prepared medium rare at the chef's recommendation. Side dishes are recommended (even though each entree comes with its own small sides, they are small).

The global wine list has limited old world (read: french) selections of note, but has a solid selection of excellent pinot noirs that pair well with the entire menu. The prices across the wine list are also very reasonable for a high-quality NYC establishment.

To sum it up, I would quote a dining companion who noted "adventurous, limited menus require great execution - and they nailed it".

Montreal 2007 - L'Epicier & Bistro Bienville

When one travels a great deal, particular by air, one must make peace with delays and cancellations, particularly in the volatile weather we have been experiencing globally during 2007. I see far too much of New York in the snow, sleet and hail; Chicago is dismal and bound to result in many a fine meal at the O'Hare McDonald's between October and March; and the lack of culinary prowess at Heathrow is a boon to no frequent flier. However, sometimes a Winter snowstorm can lead to a great adventure in eating, and while many cities are no fun in the snow, Montreal revels in it.

The largely French-speaking denizens of Quebec's cosmopolitan capital (Montreal holds a special place in my heart and stomach, even if the government chooses to sit further North) do not huddle up in their homes when ten or twenty inches of heavy, white crush pummels the city enough to cancel flights. Rather, they can be found dusting off their boots as they enter fine continental restaurants (many French-inspired) to warm themselves with favorite food and drink.

Upon such a snowy Thursday and Friday this ultimately lucky traveler found himself stuck with limited likely reprieve from Winter's wrath, and called up some old friends to show him what Montreal had to offer a hungry soul. The natives treated me to two very special meals in those two nights, one of which I probably, if appropriately plied with fine wine and food, could be convinced to add it to my Top Ten.

The experience of some of the world's finest haute cuisine at Chez L'Epicier (right) begins as one enters Chef Gobout's Old Montreal, well, Epicier (which, I am told by those who speak French, means grocery store, or, perhaps more appropriately, market). The space is a real market in front, dark wooden shelves lined with the gourmet, local foodstuffs. Passing by the delights of the restaurant's own Les Saveurs de L'Epicier, one enters a dining room that feels a bit like a modern country kitchen off the "side of the shop" with dark wooden chairs set into a hewn stone, steel and wood room. The food was excellent and made a great run at the experimental giants of the day, complete with kitsch (menu printed on paper bags) and unique cutlery and serving dishes. The Chef is also no prima donna; he was more than willing to accommodate some of the particular dietary requirements of our party. Expect to start with excellent (and local) foie gras paired with a trio of unique sauces (ranging from traditional french jellies to Indian-influenced tandoori jam) and saunter on to truly inventive takes on classic meats and fish. The cuisine focuses on local ingredients (similar to the market 's packaged goods line), so the menu changes frequently. Desserts were also a hit, and the wine list was substantial and reasonably priced for such an establishment.

After such a superb dining experience, I was not expecting much from my second night, where I trekked with another dining companion to Bistro Bienville in the somewhat more edgy Plateau Mont-Royal district. After our taxi clearly was lost (even though I was with a French speaker!), I used my keen sense of direction (and read a few street signs) to arrive just in time for what a friend who could not join us warned was a very "hot reservation" (and thanks to them for getting us the table). "Cuisine Conviviale" was proclaimed on the menus, and the intimate environment of this tiny space helped to reinforce that message, with a fully open kitchen crammed in with a handful of tables. I was disappointed to hear that this reservation was really "hot", and despite the weather we were only allocated 1.5 hours to enjoy our meal before we would need to leave. Despite my initial reservations upon having my time limit set for eating, which banished much of the excitement for the experience from me, I could not have been happier with this fine Bistro. The simple menu emphasizing traditional French dishes did not disappoint. Artfully executed versions of pot-a-feu and succulent beef stew couldn't have been more perfect for the state of mind and storm that I was in, and an extensive list of accessible wines by the glass helped soften my view of the place. When we had to depart (after a few nice desserts and a tasty local, organic cheese plate) I was very happy to have found such a unique spot. An excellent choice for very fine food done with elegant simplicity, and a place intimate enough to take a date so that you feel like a regular with the chef by your table, so long as you have a movie to see an hour and a half later.

Two nights stranded, two fantastic restaurants I would recommend many times over. I guess Winter travel ain't all bad.

Chicago 2008 - Marigold

Marigold, an intimate nouveau Indian restaurant in the Uptown neighborhood (just north of Lawrence on Broadway, betwixt a few new trendy bars), mixes traditional cuisine and modern preparations. The food was solid, and all the appetizers were a hit with our group. Crispy lamb and potato samosas, lightly fried calamari and particularly the duck confit seasoned with traditional Indian spices started out an excellent meal. The entrees were served with an artistic pyramid of light basmati rice, and the naan and saag paneer were both well executed side dishes. The food was less spicy than one might expect, and the chicken dishes were more bland than a typical Indian preparation, but the ingredients were of the highest quality.

The atmosphere, while described by some reviewers as "romantic", also suited our large group (of 10). The interior is stylish and makes you feel like you are in a posh yet understated lounge with your party. The service was attentive but not pushy - we felt like we could have stayed all night, noshing on a fine selection of desserts (such as the "Kama Sutra" chocolate cake). Overall, an excellent addition to the Chicago restaurant scene and one which serves up authentic cuisine in a new American format.

Chicago 2008 - Painted Lady

So, I haven't even fully gotten through my Tokyo reviews yet but I feel compelled to add some new experiences - this blog thing can be addictive, I guess. I will try to keep my "labels" organized so you can search by city easily (and figure out how to move some sort of sorting mechanism to the top of the page, but I don't have those skills yet, so you will have to head for the bottom of the articles for now to find like-cities).

Anyway, to get to the subject header, had a delightful dinner at the newly reinvented space which formerly housed the Bleeding Heart Bakery on Chicago just west of Damen. The Painted Lady is a fantastic little organic bistro brought to you by the owners of BHB. The food is fresh prepared, and is all organic. They also cater to the veggie and vegan crowd, and most of the menu is vegan-optional (eg, the delicious Chicago Cheese Steak can be prepared with lean, organic grass-fed beef or their own, house-made Seitan). Among what I tried, the hummus was tremendous, fresh and garlicky; the burger (topped with an egg in the non-vegan variety) was solid (didn't care for the black bean, eggless version as much); the Chicago Cheese Steak was a perfectly prepared mix on toasted panini; and both the veggie chili and the pizzas were delicious. The scene is funky kitsch, a favorite of edgy artist types. No reservations, but they do take out and have a wide variety of BHB pastries and breads at the counter (BHB has moved North to a larger space at Belmont & Damen). The small seating area was comfortable and not crowded when we arrived (no wait, probably seats 15-20). Menu changes daily (and typically on the chalkboard, right), and while they were out of some things we wanted to try, it was only because everything is house-made and hand-crafted. The experience is also a real urban coffee-shop one, order at the counter (although they do accept credit cards, which I nervously put forth for payment as the place screams cash-only), food comes out as prepared. The owners (Michelle and Velentin Garcia) were both on-site making the magic happen, and came out to explain why one of our selections wasn't available - they are clearly passionate about the food and their business. Perfect for a weekend lunch or casual dinner.

Tokyo 2007 - Part 4: Things to See

In addition to some amazing gastronomical highlights, Tokyo has a huge number of non-eating related attractions. As the guide books tell you, there are great things to see related to the history and culture of Japan (Emperor's Palace, Pagoda Gardens); the current cutting-edge of the art world (numerous modern art museums and galleries in Ginza-ku); a few unique tributes to Japanese industry (the Sony building, the Fuji museum); and even a trusty US export (Disney Tokyo). While all of these things are within the acceptable norms of tourist attractions, none really blew me away. There was one "in the guidebooks" experience that I must wholeheartedly recommend: The Tsukji Fish Market.

The Tsukji Fish Market is the pre-eminent fish market in the world largely due to the huge demand in Japan, and Tokyo specifically, for the highest quality seafood. The Fish Market itself starts quite early (perhaps 4.30am). I headed over after finishing a few last cocktails and ended up arriving at 5.30am. It is critically important that if you go by cab rather than the convenient subway station you pronounce the name correctly (ski-gee) or you may end up several hunderd dollars poorer on your way back from a suburb of Tokyo that sounds like how I would pronounce Tsukji. A quick aside on the subways - they are as efficient and as numerous as you might imagine; use them. The market itself is a sprawling network of aisles where people peddle all sorts of fish and cooking supplies (the former right off the boats). You can also walk though all of the fish unloading, prep and transport areas (be careful not to get hit by one of the hundreds of lift trucks zooming to and fro loaded with fish at a frenetic pace). Other than the sheer scale and variety of things to see, the most interesting part of the experience is the unique and personal nature of it - in the US, tourists / non-workers would never be allowed to enter most of the places I crept around in as sun broke into the morning sky. Also, after an hour or so of wandering through the aisle in wonderment, you can retire for some of the freshest sushi on the planet in one of the many small "diners" that lace the fish market. A real Tokyo experience.

I will end the report on Japan with a few bars and clubs that I enjoyed; importantly, one should note that similar to consumer culture, the "scene" in Tokyo appears to change rapidly, and thus it is difficult to know whether or not any of these locations will be in existence, much less "hot" when you travel there. I visited countless small bars and clubs across the various districts (Shibuya, Roppongi, Ginza) with mixed results. All tend to be on the expensive side versus a New York or London. The highlights in terms of bars were A971 in Roppongi by the Tokyo Modern; The New York Bar in the Park Hyatt; and The Last Quarter in Hiroo. The Last Quarter was a particularly laid back and cool experience. Proprietor Sayaka Adachi pours the finest Western and Japanese scotch, whiskey and bourbon in specially selected glasses in an intimate second floor bar a few blocks from the Hiroo station. A must-try for lovers of darker liquors. In terms of clubs, most turned out to be disappointments, but Atom in Shibuya-ku was a highlight, including a surprise appearance by Doberman Inc, a pretty talented Japanese hip-hop crew.

Tokyo 2007 - Part 3: Things to Eat

Tokyo Restaurant Review

The following sampling of restaurants are in alphabetical order, and range from the very casual to the very fancy.

Cicada (www.cicada.co.jp) - A trendy new spot in Minato-ku offers a great selection of new Spanish cuisine. An excellent wine list (the best in my experience in the city) and excellent Spanish classics made with traditional Japanese ingredients. The set menu Christmas Dinner featured a wide range of dishes, which really highlighted the capabilities of the chef.

Hamadaya (www.hamadaya-midtown.com) - Hamadaya is a fine-dining restaurant in the traditional Japanese Kaseki style. Formally-dressed waitresses present a set menu in a formal dining room. Excellent execution of a great menu. For a very traditional dining experience, this spot next to the new Tokyo Midtown building is a key destination.

Ichiran (www.ichiran.co.jp) - Ichiran is a chain of 22 "noodle shops" all over the city; great for late-night eats. In a odd ritual, you purchase a ticket from a vending machine outside, wait for a seat at the bar to free up, and then present your ticket for a delicious pork or other noodle-based dish.

Kaikaya (www.kaikaya.com) - Located in Shibuya-ku, Kaikaya is a great dinner spot, that has a "local" feel despite being frequented by Gaijin as well as local. The inventive cuisine is mostly seafood, and includes such dishes as Tuna Spare Ribs (grilled tuna on the bone) and amazing Sashimi of all types with unique, western-style spices. The atmosphere is very casual and jovial, and you immediately feel like "one of the crowd". Order a bottle of the "house sake" and sit at the bar; try a range of dishes - the grilled octopus is amazing. English menus are available.

New York Grille (www.parkhyatttokyo.com) - The setting for the bar scenes from "Lost in Translation", the New York Grille boasts a spectacular view of the city. Fifty-two floors above Shibuya-ku, this restaurant and bar scene is where the power players of Tokyo wine and dine. A traditional "New York" menu, with the very fine addition of Japanese Kobe beef, is served in a large, crowded venue. While the service was perfunctory at best, the food was excellent and the view is not to be missed.

Phonam (phonam.jp) - For a good, quick meal of spicy noodles in Roppongi-ku, try this Vietnamese option. Fast food of very high quality.

RyuGin (www.nihonryori-ryugin.com) - Life-altering would be a good description for chef Yamamoto's bleeding-edge cuisine. Reminscent of Alinea, Moto and WD-50 in the US, and, of course, the grandfather of the chemist/chef hybrid, El Bulli, this parade of delicacies earns a spot on my "top 10" list of global restaurants. Chef Yamamoto prepares set menus that will surprise the most experienced palate. Starting with a Fugu (blowfish) soup and ending with a sub-zero frozen carmel apple, the menu showcases all that is amazing in modern cuisine. Japanese staples married with inventive preparation and the deft showmanship of customize plates and utensils (similar to Chef Cantu's Moto experience) allows one to truly see and taste the traditional Japanese ingredients and dishes in a way which will elicit wonder. RyuGin also has a remarkable set of servers, and its manager, Takeo Arimasa, carefully explains the dishes in both Japanese and English to ensure the foreigners who have come to see Chef's masterpieces get the full experience. Book ahead - as of this writing a six month wait list has graced the door of RyuGin in the wake of being highlighted in the Michelin guide for 2007.

Sushi Ko (no website) - Run, don't walk, to the best Sushi experience you will ever have. A set menu prepared excellently in this 12-seat restaurant in a back alley in Ginza-ku. Exceedingly difficult to find, but well worth the somewhat confusing journey. Course after course (about 20) of the most exotic and delectable sushi dishes is capped off by a fatty tuna not found outside of Tokyo, served both raw and grilled. Rarely does a restaurant break into my "top 10", much less two in one week, but Sushi Ko earns top honors for the best sushi I have ever tasted, or can even imagine.

Zakuro (no website) - Similar to many fine dining establishments in Tokyo, Zakuro has expanded to a number of different locations (currently numbering 6). I have eaten at Zakuro twice; once on a prior business trip at the Akasaka location and during this journey at the Ginza location. The private room option, giving you the full traditional Shabu-Shabu experience. The charcoal-burning "chimney" boils a broth that is then used to cook delicious, thin-sliced Kobe beef, vegetables mixed in with homemade sauces. A real unique experience that is frequented by business types from Tokyo and abroad. Make sure you know which location you have reserved at; the numbers listed often do not match the locations' address.

Tokyo 2007 - Part 2: Gastronomy

Tokyo is truly a city for lovers of food, and the dining experience. No other city boasts more restaurants, the sheer volume of dining opportunities is staggering. The 2007 Michelin Guide awarded Tokyo more stars than any other city, even its beloved Paris.

The interesting thing about the number of stars was not only the sheer number, but the variety of restaurants starred - the guide best known for its secret, professional reviewers had given its coveted stars to restaurants cooking up not only various types of Japanese food, but also Italian, and even French cuisine.

The guide's assessment of Japan was similar to mine; the cuisine at a variety of Tokyo restaurants was uniformly excellent. The Japanese chefs have taken concepts from their own cuisine as well as the Western culinary traditions and perfected them. At any measure of good restaurant, the food was executed at the highest level of the art; at two restaurants, Ryugin and Sushi Ko, the experience was life-altering (you will see these two restaurants have made the "top ten" list I maintain on this site).

Too, there were more informal dining experiences that were absolutely amazing. Small, intimate dining rooms with open kitchens such as Kaikaya serving up fresh grilled and sushi fused with Western spices and prepared in entirely unique ways.

The next post will contain my recommendations for Tokyo dining; enjoy!