Chicago 2010: Sable

Housed in the Palomar hotel in River North, one of Chicago's newest hot spots is Sable. The restaurant has an open kitchen with edgy and attractive decor, and the friendly service you would expect of a hotel restaurant. But what sets Sable apart is the unique, but oddly accessible, offering of both drinks and cuisine.

The bar area (which opens onto the main entrance) boasts a host of mixologists pouring a menu designed by Mike Ryan (formerly of Violet Hour and MOTO) that has a bible of cocktails that will delight. These range from elegant versions of old stand-bys (a Manhattan with Rittenhouse 101 was my first beverage of the evening) to the inventive "Trust me" page which sports The Most Dangerous Game (Vodka, Fernet Branca, fresh beet juice and Mexican coffee bitters) as well as the Yoino Buta, or "Drunken Pig" (Yamazaki 12 year Japanese Whiskey, housemade bacon bitters and bacon-brown sugar syrup). The service is much faster than many of the other "craft drink" spots that have cropped up across the nation recently, despite being of equal or better quality.

Following our sojourn at Mike's amazing bar, we made our way to the dining room on the East side of the restaurant. The menu in the restaurant is slightly more tame than the bar. A range of unusual preparations of standard dishes - veal meatballs, ham & swiss "poppers", buttermilk fried quail, among others, make decisions difficult. In addition, the portions of the dishes, even though served in a "tasting" style are substantial. I don't think I have ever cautioned my readers about over-ordering; but I must here, as I was tempted to order "one of everything" given the relatively inexpensive panoply of fine dining.

We began with the veal meatballs, which are served with a spicy ketchup glaze. The veal is smooth and tender, and the spicy sauce is truly a crisp glaze. Excellent and served in a cast pot with bamboo toothpicks.

We were mistakenly brought a dish of the mini soft pretzels, with a rich and tasty cheddar cheese dip. We ate them promptly.

The mussels were spicy and of very high quality - served with oiled bread in a cast iron pot - and excellent. The perfect size and flavor. Next came a small basked of corn & scallion hush puppies, with a smoked paprika salt. These were excellent as well.

I snuck in an order of deviled eggs, as the menu description intrigued me. They were orgasmic, with truffle oil whipped with the egg yolks, and topped with a crisped black trumpet mushroom. I really recommend these - I have never been one to order deviled eggs, but it was a standout.

By this time, it had became apparent that we had over-ordered a bit, as we continued to be plied with the delicious yet heady cocktails. Then the BLT sliders arrived. They were made with crispy pork belly instead of bacon. I would change the bread (egg bun) to a firmer bread, perhaps toasted whole grain, but the small sandwiches were rich and excellent.

The tuna tartar tacos appeared suddenly. They were small homemade tacos, with rounds of corn meal and a spicy sauce. These were very good and a lighter, refreshing course.

Having nearly forgotten there was more to go when the prosciutto pizza arrived, topped with oil-soaked olives (I would pass on the olives) and arugula. Well-cooked and excellent with a fried egg on top. Finally, a set of short-rib sliders came to the table. They were good but a little rich (oddly) with some interesting spice.

Overall, this was a great meal and a great experience. You should get to Sable before it becomes to crowded to enjoy - its that good!

Chicago 2010: The Purple Pig

Just to the South of 500 North Michigan Avenue, there is a a grand entrance, wrought of iron, proclaiming the way to the The Purple Pig, through which one passes to the restaurant's spacious outdoor patio before arriving at the door of the restaurant. However, if you approach from the North, you stumble upon a more traditional office building, and hidden away behind the elevator bank, a rustic wood and glass door declares "Cheese, Wine & Swine". It was in this way I entered the restaurant for the first time, having retreated from an art opening and seeking an early Friday evening dinner.

Inside, the place is all hustle and bustle with loud-ish music pumping, which was frankly a bit in contrast with the country-kitchen decor (floral tiles and light wood walls).

There was a large selection of accessible wines (many priced at less than $40), as well as some very nice higher-end vinos (but all very young vintages). They pour by the carafe, half bottle and glass for any of the less than $40 selections, which is very nice for tasting and for larger parties. We selected a bottle of the popular Whispering Angel Rose '08 for this hot early summer evening.

The fresh-baked foccacia (sans herbs) which came out with the menus was not very good, but the service was prompt if a bit hurried.

The menu is all served tapas style, and comes out quickly when ordered. With antipasti such as salt-roasted beets with whipped goat cheese (a great flavored beet, and I really could have eaten several orders, unusual for my carnivore self) and rock shrimp with spring peas (very good and 'fresh' tasting with a touch of lemon), it is hard to narrow down choices. Next up was a decent selection of cured meats (we started with a pile of thinly sliced Jamon Serrano, which was ok, but not to the quality of, say The Publican) and "smears" to spread on crostini (we sampled the bone marrow with herbs, two huge chunks of bone with parsley, capers and fennel, and a salt dish, which was very good but the crostini were over-oiled for such a rich flavor). The cheese is a highlight of the menu, with sampler plates of 3 or 5 types from the broader list of 16 available. We tried a camembert (very nice), a 6-month aged gouda (could have been a 5-year, excellent), and a manchego (not that good). The crisp yet chewy bread served with the cheeses were excellent (perhaps better-suited for the marrow dish as well).

We then got more serious, we decided to skip the list of tasty sounding "fried items" (you know, health reasons) and went with the octopus from the "A La Plancha" menu. Thick pieces of octopus (1 inch radius) were very well grilled with a hash of swiss chard and a small tapioca-esque grain. This was a highlight.

The menu has a salads and a few panini as well, which we did not try.

The atmosphere and decor could use some work. The restaurant has badly-spaced tables and a strange combination of white marble tables, country kitchen walls, dark reclaimed wood floors and red diner banquettes. It needs to make up its mind and space itself out. There is a nice outdoor space, though.

In all honesty, I had forgotten for many months about this restaurant. I recall the opening and a bunch of good PR, but then it dropped off my radar (largely due to location). However, while I would go again if I were in the area, this is not a spot I would make a special trip for - too many pieces missing to make the whole a complete and exciting experience.

Chicago 2010: "Bike & Brunch" - Chez Joel

Chez Joël is a true French bistro set in the heart of Little Italy (there is no "little France" in Chicago). It is simple yet refined. Small romantic tables, French posters and an outdoor area set in a brick walled garden.

Why then would this be a spot to bike to for brunch? After a particularly crazy evening out, I dragged myself out of bed committed to continue this little Sunday morning project. However, by the time we got our act together, most brunch spots had already closed, and I noticed the Taylor Street bistro empty but open at 2pm.

So, terribly under dressed, we locked our bikes to a nearby signpost and gingerly wandered into the restaurant's outdoor dining (fittingly it had an Italian fashion poster on the brick wall, presumably an homage to its Little Italy location).

We gulped some water and sampled hot, fresh-baked bread with butter and jam, which was excellent.

My biking partner ordered what turned out to be a massive "Benedicte Provencal", which was a Benedict without the muffin - rather it was set on a tian of vegetables. I was assured it was quite good.

I opted for the Croque Madame, which was served with shoestring fries (which were not crispy, very tender and excellent). The Croque Madame was very good, and I would definitely order it again.

All and all, a successful second episode of Bike & Brunch.

Chicago 2010: "Bike & Brunch" - Demitasse

In a new series on my ever-evolving (or devolving given my rate of posts?) I am instituting a "bike and brunch" segment for local Chicagoans. I will endeavor to find new and interesting weekend brunch spots using only my bike and keen sense of both direction and smell.

The first location on this new initiative is Demitasse, a coffee shop/diner in the near south loop. I use "diner" with some reserve; the chef and baristas are craft in nature....nothing artificial or frozen here. It is really more of a coffee shop with a great kitchen. Fresh, finely chopped potatoes are sauteed in oil and served aside fresh baked "frittata" (really an unfolded omelet) with various ingredients. I opted for bacon, mushroom and cheddar and it was perfectly cooked and each bite bursting with ingredients. The side of "Italian-style toast" was also delicious - and unsurprising given the Taylor Street locale.

I am rather particular about my coffee, and another reason "diner" is an inappropriate moniker despite the black and white checked floor and the cliche booths and tables. They roast their beans in-house, and the house coffee mixture is dark and strong without being bitter. Importantly, it is also served in mugs that hold the heat and aren't too small or large - just right.

My dining and biking partner sampled the buttermilk pancakes, and while "not as good as Ina's", they were very tasty.

Bike there soon!

Note: American Express is not accepted (but hopefully will be soon).

Chicago 2010: cibo matto (The Wit)

I finally had the occasion to try the oft-recommended new Italian restaurant at The Wit hotel downtown. Set in a sleek space on the second floor, cibo matto evokes a modern feel, but the food is prepared with a centuries-old care reminiscent of the Italian countryside.

Rich wood floors are coupled with comfortable, modern banquettes and chairs in a very open space - crested with a mural overhead. There is also a very nice, versatile private room (glassed in) and a large communal table overlooking the chef's workspace, set next to an antique-looking glass salami and cheese case. The wine cellar is a high point - an architectural feel to a glass U-shaped 4,000 bottle end-of-dining-room cellar.

The impeccably-designed restaurant is also home to a staff of excellent servers and hosts. Well-versed in the menu, drinks and wine - very friendly and attentive.

There is a short but interesting cocktail menu to start your dinner experience - I tried the Monte Verdissima, a manly mixture of Maker's Mark, Green Chartreuse, Benedictine and some lemon juice, and was not disappointed.

The authentic Italian menu balances a mixture of imported and local ingredients and flavors. Given our dining party had some dietary restrictions, the seafood-heavy selections were welcomed, but there were plenty of carnivorous dishes as well.

The bread was surprisingly uninspired for an Italian haute cuisine spot, but the butter was well-salted and soft. For starters, I had the grilled octopus with squid ink, served with a hash of jicama, fava beans and parsley. The squid ink sauce was excellent, and the octopus was grilled to perfection.

For dinner, I had the bucatini with black pepper and carbonara sauce; the two quail eggs were cracked, raw, over the pasta table side and mixed with the fresh hot pasta. The sauce was delightful and the noodles prepared perfectly. We had a side dish of the cheese potatoes, but would not recommend them - too starchy and too light on the sauce.

The evening ended with a round of champagne and salt taffy, gratis in honor of one of our dinner partner's birthday. Overall, while there a few things that could be improved on the menu, it is an excellent venue with great service and fine Italian dining - a must try and good place to meet up downtown.

Chicago 2009: Nightwood

"Guys guys guys" to quote a friend - I am going to stop apologizing as an introduction to each post. I am not keeping up in an efficient way with the blog. I am, however, still eating quite healthily (well, not healthy eating but plenty of eating), so here we go with a few to the end the 2009 vintage of Cress_Travel.

The new spot Nightwood is attracting a diverse bohemian and foodie crowd to the Pilsen neighborhood. However, my arrival on a wet evening a few days before the winter solstice did not start well. There is no valet parking (which is de rigueur for Chicago restaurants). While typically this is not a problem for me, I atypically happened to be driving in from an appointment on the South Side this particular evening. The hostess told us there would be "ample on street parking", which was not the case. But $10 to the local burrito stand manager secured me a spot for 2 hours that was a mere 2 blocks away.

Feeling a bit flustered from the parking adventure, my dining companion and I approached the restaurant with a cautious gait. As we passed the large plate glass windows and saw a large crowd enjoying hearty dishes, further bolstered by a well structured outdoor area with a modernized fire pit (although the weather made it a but untenable that evening), our tune started to change.

The uber-hip waitstaff seated us and reviewed what is a very affordable and nice wine list as well as an inventive cocktail menu. My lady friend sipped on a "Campfire Sidecar" (which had a unique smoked pear flavor as its twist) as I selected a 2006 Burgundy (Xavier Monnot Clos de La Fussiere, Maranges Premier Cru) at the recommendation of the waiter, which was quite nice (light and paired well with the food).

The layout of the restaurant is very interesting - there is dining room seating, bar seating, a bar-style open kitchen seating area in back, and a separate wine room (in addition to the outdoor seating). The bathrooms are also done in a wholly different style (almost a Victorian house style - think a nicer version of the Violet Hour). We sat in the dining room, but I recommend the large open kitchen bar for diners wanting to get the full experience.

A unique bread basket for an evening fine dining establishment, homemade scones with a honey glaze flavor, were an unexpected change of pace to start.

The hand-written daily menu had a lot to choose from, and so we shared four dishes: two appetizers and two mains.

For starters, a well-flavored "torn" burrata (imported from Italy, not house-made) was paired with roasted pears and fennel and a fresh piece of baguette. The burrata itself was smooth and buttery and went well with the pear/fennel combination.

The second appetizer was an excellent ricotta gnocchi with roasted red peppers and cashew butter. The gnocchi was almost "springy" and had a rich red pepper taste (although not overwhelming as is sometimes the case), and the unique cashew butter "paste" was a real hit.

For the mains, we shared an innocuously titled "pork loin" and the duck breast.

To our delight, the pork loin actually was Flintstone-style - an enormous pork loin on the rib bone with a huge swath of belly attached. This was paired with fresh warmed beets and chopped olives. An amazing, eye-catching dish, but not one we could hope to finish without a small army.

The duck breast (while not as much of a shock-and-awe spectacle) had a great marinade, served with baked beans (with bacon of course) and cornbread, garnished with chopped celery and apple. The baked beans "taste right" and had a nice spice to them.

Overall, a fantastic meal but with one serving gaffe - the duck breast was nearly cold when it arrived (assume this was due to a mismatch on cooking time on the pork). So take a cab and try the chef's "bar" . . . or you will be behind the times as this trendy haven flourishes.

Chicago 2009: Japonais

As usual, I am catching up on my enormous backlog and places from my past. I was privileged enough to enjoy Japonais in Chicago the first week it opened; since then, I have hosted many a client, friend and even several parties at the reclaimed loft space on the river.

This Chicago restaurant has remained a perennial "hot spot", and kept the quality high. This is one of those rare restaurants that carves out a niche of its own and becomes an "old standby". Trendy, good food seems to persist at this River North gem - if you haven't been, you should go today.

When you do enter the half club / half restaurant in Summer, make sure you reserve an outdoor table, either on the terrace in front of the restaurant, or downstairs on the river - a unique spot in the city.

After many meals at this Japanese "steakhouse", I can recommend a number of dishes that constitute a perfect meal.

Begin with the lobster spring roll - crispy and hot, rich chunks of lobster wrapped in a thin pastry and salted lightly with a side of mango salsa are a delight to the senses. Perhaps a richer dish than what one envisions when Japanese cusine comes to mind, but perfection in a hot appetizer.

My favorite speciality of the house from the sushi bar is the Maguro Moriwase - two thick slices of Toro, Otoro and Chu-Toro, succulent parts of the Tuna that are of the highest quality in the Midwest.

Other sushi dishes are well-done and taste as if you were at the fish market in Tokyo - I don't know the secret, but the purveyors of Japonais' seafood are clearly artisans. Other favorites include barbeque pork "manju buns" and various gyoza.

For entrees, the Samuri Tuna Steak and Le Quack Japonais (Roast Duck) are excellent choices. If you make it further than this, you should look to a complete and creative dessert menu, including the signature "donuts with green tea semifreddo", a rich and subtle dish that caps off a perfect meal.

Hopefully, you will find a time to host your friends and family at the best Japanese Steakhouse in the Midwest.

Chicago 2009: Ina's

I awoke early on what promised to be the first real "summer" day in Chicago. The sun was bright and I gathered my paper and a new book, and headed to grab a coffee and some breakfast.

Unfortunately, a heavy summer storm emerged and I retreated back into my house to do some chores. The rain passed quickly, and while the sky remained dim it was a warm day. I wandered out to my favorite local breakfast place, Ina's. Ina Pinkey's accolades are numerous and Chicagoland diners have been titillated since she was crowned the "breakfast queen" several decades ago.

The charm of this West Loop institution is like a country homestead in the city. One of the unique trademark salt-and-pepper shakers sits on each table. The staff is friendly and efficient, and nice touches like Ina's signature baked goods and a full carafe of coffee on each table appear within seconds of arrival. I should note that while I have been to Ina's on dozens and dozens of occasions for breakfast, brunch and lunch, I have never been there for dinner, despite the award-winning fried chicken and other good homestyle options.

So, I hope you don't mind if I focus on the sweet and savory breakfast options for this post. Whether it is the signature dishes like "Heavenly Hots" (thin pancakes with hot fruit compote), Scrapple or Frittata; the fine omelets and other baked goods; or the fresh made soups, salads and sandwiches - Ina and her kitchen turn out wonderful, fresh (and largely organic) treats. The coffee is strong and good, and all-natural, fresh-squeezed orange, tomato, grapefruit and other juices are on hand.

It is the perfect spot for a casual family gathering, an informal business luncheon, or even a quiet spot to read a newspaper or a book. This morning, I had the pleasure of sampling the oatmeal pancakes with blueberries and fresh syrup while I read an exceptional newly published tome (The Whole Five Feet, but Christopher Beha). The perfect start to a weekend.

Chicago 2009: Goose Island Clybourn Heritage Collection Part 1 of 2

Goose Island set out to do something no other brewmaster could accomplish - make a set of craft beers to compete with wines. Ones that could be paired with foods. And titilate the tastes of ladies.

The first shot the Halls and their crew took at this were the popular Matilda, Bourbon County Stout, Pere Jacque, and Demolition about two years ago. This year, they released the evolution of this concept with four new beers: a new Demolition, Naughty Goose, Juliet and Sophia.

These four evoke flavors of their intended opponents. For example, the Naughty Goose is the beer equivalent of a Pinot Noir, whilst the new Demolition is a competitor for a heady white. I sampled two of the four while waiting for the Cubs' home opener to start after an icy rain delay in early April.

The Naughty Goose is a dead ringer for a pinot. Light but solid "American Brown Ale" served in a pint glass, backed with the rest of the tall 22 ounce (excuse me, "1 Pint 6 Fluid Ounces", according to the bottle). The bottle is meant to be drank within a half year of initial bottling. The beer is indulgent while light for a brown ale, with some hint of chocolate. Very good, very tasty.

The bomber of Demolition was a "Belgian Style Golden", with some bitterness and a heavy body for a golden ale. Some honey citrus flavour pares down the bitterness, and my British female drinking companion preferred this to the Naughty Goose.

More to come when Juliet and Sophia are released later this month. . . . .

Chicago 2009: Branch 27

It was with some excitement that I accepted an invitation to dine with friends last week at Branch 27, a new spot by some trendy-dining heavyweights (backers of Rockit, chef from North Pond). All of the first-on-the-scene publications, bloggers, daily updates had heralded its opening. "Love the space, love the food, another must try from veterans, etc".

I will concur that the space is a nice one. Located in the former 27th Ward Library space, the decor is understated and comfortable. A decent sized bar area unfolds into the larger two-tier dining room and finally into a unique skylight/atrium room. The tables were full, but the spacing was adequate and one did not feel as "crammed in" as would be typical at such a restaurant.

But, dear readers, I am sorry to say that the big names behind this new spot focused more on the PR than on the food and service.

Granted, I was there in the first week of opening, so I will give some wide berth for errors and mistakes in service. However, before we even began dining, the combination of too-infrequent wait service (one of our party of four always had an empty glass) and too-frequent bus service (many of us lost plates / utensils if they were left idle for a second) was disappointing. Too, several of the beers on the well-compiled beer list were unavailable; which seems a bit of a gaff for an American bistro (I could live with one beer being "sold out", but 3 or 4?).

On the subject of food, I am of two minds. On the one hand, the PR around this opening is painstaking to differentiate the spot in its simplicity / lack of "fussy" food. As such, "normal" dishes that might not excite me relative to the latest and greatest the culinary scene in Chicago has to offer should be forgiven or handicapped. However, these "normal" dishes tried to evoke some creative flair: mozzarella egg roll (served lukewarm and flavorless), mussels & frites in interesting dishware (again, lukewarm and less than exciting to the palette), a highly recommended half chicken (very fatty, low-grade chicken and cold brussel sprouts). The flatbreads with exotic toppings were a highlight of the kitchen's talent, but the last two pieces were whisked away as entrees arrived without regard for us wanting to finish.

So, I may try it again to see if the visit was premature on the first open-to-the-public Saturday, but with my long list of new spots to try, I was disappointed that this restaurant was so over-hyped by the literati of the food world.

Chicago 2009: The Grocery Bistro

The Grocery Bistro opened a few weeks ago in a star-crossed spot near Washington and Halsted, which has played home to fast food, sushi and offices over the last dozen years I have lived in the West Loop. For the sake of anyone who enjoys fine food and a convivial setting, let's hope that this is the last change we see for some time.

First, kudos to the staff for not flinching at my terribly inappropriate attire. I had come straight from having a small surgical procedure performed, and was famished - and my dedicated handler thought she would treat a somewhat still-anesthetized patient in sweats to a very late lunch.

We arrived a few minutes before five, hoping to grab a quick bite in an empty restaurant before my pain medication began to wear off. However, even at this early hour, the restaurant was fully booked (in its third week of being open). Rather than turn us away and scoff at the badly dressed rubes who had stumbled into their establishment, we were welcomed to sit at the large, central communal table.

[Note to those of you not under the influence of hospital administered narcotics: the Bistro is BYOB, and conveniently located next door is Perman Wine Selections (former home to Bennett Wine Studio), which sports a relatively small but very nice selection of wines and some craft beers for every price range.]

Upon entering the restaurant, I was reminded of the elegant yet "city farmhouse" chic elements of a number of bistros I have visited in the past year in Brooklyn (iCi, L'Epicerie). Absent the red-striped banner sign on the glass (which makes it look like an actual grocery store), I would applaud the owners on their design touches. This is transcendent through the place settings and the very cool long, thin silverware.

Now, for the important stuff. The food. As aforementioned, we arrived at the very beginning of the dinner hour, only to find that the Bistro has an early bird special - a 3 course prix fixe menu for only $25. This, friends and loyal readers, is a true steal.

Perusing the ceiling-height chalkboard menu, we studied an interesting type of French fusion cooking; comforting French fare with spices from around the globe, as well as a few more "new American" dishes.

For starters, I tried the steak tartare, which was very rich and cut with only a modest amount of capers and onion. As a result, the amount of steak was more substantial than a typical tartare. A small quail egg and thick peppery crackers also accompanied the dish. In sum, as the waiter promised - "5-star" - but could use some more capers to enhance the high-quality meat's spice.

My charming orderly had the night's special "tuna two ways"; a tempura tuna roll and tuna tartare. The tuna roll was decent but the tuna tartare, mixed with a spicy sauce and bits of corn and Japanese beet, was exemplary.

The main courses, however, really stole the show. The waiter convinced me the while the burgers were solid, I should really try the lamb. I had a taste for burgers, but this thirst was slaked by the steak tartare.

The roasted chili-crusted lamb chops were served with a yogurt creamed spinach and curried couscous. The lamb was perfectly cooked and well-spiced, and while I am not a big lamb guy, I would order this dish again.

My partner ordered the highly recommended roasted garlic risotto with artichokes and mushrooms. The very nicely-sized portion was a deep gray color, as the risotto was further flavored with simmer mushroom and truffle sauce. Excellent and a must-have.

For dessert, we sampled the banana and bacon tiramisu, which was both inventive and scrumptious.

I truly enjoyed this dining experience; in addition to the food, the attitude and feel of the restaurant seemed different than the traditional "new hot spot". It felt like an authentic modern bistro. And it backed up its sensibility with excellence in dining.

Chicago 2009: Tocco

Ciao Bruno!

It is with some pleasure that I went to try the second outpost of authentic Italian cuisine by Bruno Abate. Housed in a stark, modern space in lower Bucktown, Tocco's interior is a contrast to the trendy, yet reserved Mediterranean hues that decorate Follia, Bruno's original spot in the West Loop. I would deem the post-modern art deco, black and white interior and sharp, clear tables to give the feel of a European club.

We arrived early for our reservation, an our table wasn't ready, but we were offered the communal table if we didn't want to wait. We opted to sit communally and begin our dining experience.

Our helpful server gave us the run down on the menu (which is similar to Follia, but with a few additional wood-fired options including a range of calzone), and left us to peruse the short but well-chosen wine list. Also similar to Follia, the largely Italian wine selections provide for all budgets, from simple Italian staples to reserve selections including an amazing '04 Ornelliaia, which we splurged on.

After sampling the fine wine, we started with one of the appetizers unique to the Tocco menu, fried gnocchi. The fried dough was a little chewy and served with three shaved meats; an amazing tender shaved ham, a light mortadella and fine prosciutto. We also had a Follia favorite, breseola with a small salad of fresh arugula and shaved parmigiana.

For our main dish, we chose to sample some of the house made pastas, and were not disappointed - it was clearly prepared fresh and cooked to perfection. We shared a pappardella simply served with fresh tomato, basil garlic and some fresh pepper; as well as a spaghetti carbonara, which was unexpectedly light but without sacrificing any of the flavor.

As we finished our wine, we tasted the four cheese selection of the day, and enjoyed all of them - parmigiana, gorgonzola, and two other soft cheeses I can't recall, but both were excellent, topped with truffles and honey.

Bruno happened by the restaurant as we were finishing, and like the true restaurateur he is, welcomed us warmly, making even this trendy reclaimed piece of urban jungle feel like an a friend's Italian kitchen.

I think I can say with certainty that Chicago is lucky to be graced with another outpost for real, fresh Italian delicacies.

Chicago 2009: Zealous

Oh, Zealous. How it pains me that my lack of verbosity, or rather frequency, of my own visits to publish my blog have neglected highlighting one of my first, and best, fine dining experiences. Many years ago, my ex-wife and I were a young couple trying to keep up with the trendiest and hottest new spots. I haven't researched it but I believe it was nearly a decade ago that we ventured into Zealous; Michael Taus continues to ply his trade at creating interesting cuisine and seasonal touches with excellence.

I will pretend for the sake of my readers that I haven't visited Zealous' striking, chic space dozens of times over the years, or that I have never stepped foot in one of the most impressive private dining rooms in Chicago. I will forget the memory of the otherworldly bamboo ringed "head table" in the center of the restaurant, or the multi-story glass wine room that serves as the primary wall separating the private dining area from the main dining room and bar. The accents of pale, grey-green that Chef Taus favors. And the fact that the dishware, while now nearly a decade "out of date" is still avant garde for "new American" restaurants, with place settings that cradle the plate of the amuse, and special dishes designed to highlight each course uniquely.

Now that I have forgotten all that, and the neat and quiet bar that one can lounge in waiting for guest to arrive, I will tell you that the space in the former "outpost" neighborhood in River North, currently besieged by yuppie condominiums, continues to impress with its interior.

I had forgotten (shame on me) that the wine pairings with the tasting menu were cheap (by Chicago or other major city standards), and was tricked into ordering a relatively inexpensive 2000 Bordeaux by our crafty waiter this eve. I had never heard of the Chateau (a Grand Cru from St. Emilion), but for the price it was quite a nice bottle (Destieux 2000).

After I got over my foolishness for forgetting about the variety of varietals I could have sampled with one of the Chef's many tasting menus, my guest and I perused the a la carte menu while noshing on the same herbed rolls I had first tasted years prior. While I still wish the butter was salted, this is one place where I am glad most things remain the same.

Having chosen our path with some recommendations from a helpful, but never hurried, waiter, we sampled the amuse bouche, a crab croquette - panko breaded, herbed with mango sauce, but with a hint of curry. Chef Michael seems to have added an Indian flair into many of his dishes on his current menu, and this light, fleeting curry flavor was a taste of what was sprinkled throughout the menu.

For appetizers, we chose the Scallop and Pork Belly, a fine, well-cooked scallop served atop a sunchoke puree and pea foam bed, with a thicker-than-expected slice of pork belly next to it; and "Taco-Dosas", three curried crepes filled with with oxtail and a blue goat cheese (a bit lighted than a hearty cow's blue). Both were excellent and frankly the highlight of the meal were these appetizers.

For my entree, I tried the duck breast, which was well cooked but still pink; I found it to be a little fatty but that is the way of duck. Next to the duck breast were two moo shu pancakes stuffed with good chinese spices, mushrooms, shoots and a duck confit, which was excellent.

For dessert (my dining companion had a sweet tooth) I tried the seasonal cobbler with vanilla bean beignets. I would say the beignets were good but were not as fresh as they could have been (ie, I suspect the pastry chef made them this morning, not fresh-fried on to my place). The Granny Smith tart with Goldschlager ice cream was excellent.

Lest you think I departed with a "very good not great" feeling from my food review above, I would keep in mind two things: (1) I am bound to be more critical of something I consider to be one of THE institutions of Chicago fine dining and (2) the large a la carte menu is not Chef Taus' speciality or love. I use this one meal to write a review only as I am feeling remiss that I have not yet encouraged my readers to journey to this singular River North spot - the multiple tasting menus (including vegetarian) shine to a degree I cannot express from tonight's relatively simple meal.

In my mind, Michael Taus paved the way from Grant Achatz and Homaru Cantu to do the wonderful things they do in Chicago today; he bridged the "fussy" fine dining gap from the old school of Trotter and the like to the new, fun, experimental cuisine that has succeeded here. If you want to see a chef that really moves things forward, through originality and a sense of space, taste and humility - and yet still is affordable - get to Zealous for a delicious tasting today.

Chicago 2009: Farmerie 58

I know, I know - its been ages since I posted. But this will be worth it, even though there are about 20 other spots I should highlight since my last entree (or entry).


I was treated to Farmerie 58 this past weekend by an astute legal eagle friend of mine. I entered the old Republic (pan Asian) spot across from David Burke's and expected anything but what I saw. With limited changes to decor, Farmerie seemed to be a new menu in an old spot. This was further reinforced by the (very) weak wine list, despite a helpful server (who highlighted what we "shouldn't eat" on the menu).


Dear reader, before you write off this restaurant with a local farm focus, know that my dread was completely dispelled by the food which followed. We chose appetizers from the raw bar, including a very nice Hamachi Carpaccio, with a lemongrass & soy sauce. Excellent and fresh tasting. We also shared an "Ocean's Bounty" roll which consisted of a well-executed crispy lobster and salmon.

For an entree, I was again surprised by the Amish Chicken with truffle gnocchi and egg; an awesome example of simple, homestyle ingredients (well, except the truffle) done right. Could not have been more positively surprised by food!

Desserts were also well done. I would try to BYOB, but Farmerie is something to see.

Chicago 2008: Sepia Update

Whilst I still have about 45 posts in draft form due to a terrible travel schedule, I felt compelled to skip enhancing my readers' culinary vision for a moment to pen another few words regarding Sepia. I think I have mentioned before that Sepia was hands down my #1 new restaurant in Chicago back in late 2007; since that time, it has only improved. Like the fine and eclectic wines that they have picked for their continuously refreshed wine list, this restaurant has matured beautifully.

I have taken the occasion to dine with clients, family and friends alike at Sepia no less than 15 times this year, and each time the menu is executed to perfection. The staff is always knowledgeable, courteous and fun. Many of my dining partners have said that the pork chop is the best they have ever had, hands down. And these are pork people. I myself am partial to the game dishes that rotate through the entree selections. Most recently, I sampled the Elk Chop, which was a large-portioned, perfectly cooked and seasoned masterpiece for the Winter-y months. In addition, the always amazing grilled calamari dish is sure to please first-time diners.

So, I entreat Chicago-area folks to sample the amazing cuisine of Chef Duque before he is whisked away by the Obamas to Washington as has recently been rumored.

Chicago 2008: Province

I was perusing my backlog of drafts, and realized that I have over 40 items I have yet to properly post. For this, dear reader, I apologize. I am hopeful that I will be more diligent in posting in the coming months. With that lame apology out of the way, I bring you my latest dining experience.

New last week from former Nacional 27 chef Randy Zweiban comes Province, a LEED-certified, open space in the West Loop which incorporates green building materials and kitchen equipment, and stresses farm-to-table cuisine from local producers.

The service started off the evening right. From the minute our server came to introduce the South American cuisine and various "categories" of the menu, the service was exemplary. The manager and Chef Randy both came to chat with us at various points during the meal. In addition, the manager spent a good deal of time helping us pick a wonderful Tempranillo (Campillo, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain '94) which was well-aged, still acidic but with great flavor. Very unusual in this day and age for a new restaurant to have such a good selection of older wines.

We decided to explore the different types of servings outlined on the menu: Bites, Raw, SoupsSalads, Small, Big, Bigger.

After we ordered the wine, the chef sent out an amuse bouche: smoked salmon, cucumber, olive with chile cream cheese. A nice gesture to start the meal.

From the "Bites" section (which are about the size of a passed appetizer) we sampled the Mini Pork Sandwiches, which were good but served a little too cold, and excellent, crispy Squash Taquitos with a delicious chive & mayo dressing. Next came the "Small" section of the menu, which were more "normal" appetizer size. We sampled both the Fluke & Grapefruit Cerviche, which consisted of slices of soft and tender fish laced with a citrus and pepper flavor throughout and an order of the Shrimp & Manchego Grits, which were smooth & creamy with firm, grilled popcorn shrimp (perhaps our favorite dish of the evening).

The "Big" dishes are akin to a half order of a normal sized entree, and the "Bigger" dishes are regular entree portions. We had a few of these eclectic dishes, to try the range of interesting combinations that have been put out by Chef Randy - Lamb with Cornbread & Chorizo (Lamb is a bit too gamey, cornbread with chorizo very good); Rabbit Confit with Garlic & Almond butter (amazing flavor, but I would lose the celery); Slow-Cooked Salmon with Leeks (decent, good flavors, but served too cold).

Overall, an ambitious environmentally friendly newcomer with great service, and with a few tweaks, a stellar menu.

Chicago 2008: Publican

A beer hall dressed up in couture fashion, the spacious market district addition to the numerous nightclubs that line the meatpacking corridor, brought to you by the creators of The Violet Hour and Blackbird, is off to a strong start. Fresh faced and attentive servers help fill the spacious, german-styled hall across from the Fulton Fish Market, which has been christened the Publican.

Large, communal tables of sharp-looking wood ring the outside of the room, while the East wall is adorned with booths (replete with swinging doors) that sequester you from the balance of the room if you have a party of four (similar to the reserved boxes in Oktoberfest tents in Munich).

The draft beer list includes eight varied beers (three locals, some fruity Belgians, a festival German, and an esoteric coffee-based beer as well as a cider); the bottled beer list numbers about another sixty, and is organized by country and representative of a well-thought our selection of craft beers. Wine is also available (but you should not come if you need it, the experience is really best with beer).

We started with a ham tasting - rare and fine Iberico (true to the menu: rich, nutty and sweet and worth the $35 for the tasting), an 'Iowa version of Iberico' (good but not as rich), and a Tennessee ham with a smoky flavor. Served with thin-sliced German brown bread and unsalted butter, a nice way to start a meal (although we couldn't resist also sampling the pork rinds - served hot with just a dusting of salt & vinegar, they would have delighted Homer [Simpson, not the Greek] at his brightest moment of food bliss).

For a main course, I took on the crispy sweetbread schnitzel, which was very mild versus many sweetbreads I have tried. The lemon & caper sauce, coupled with a rather thick breading, was a bit overpowering on the palette for such a rich organ meat, but it was a substantial portion and a very nice meal despite lacking the delicate nature of a typical sweetbread preparation.

My dining partner opted for the potee (pork shank, belly and tenderloin) served with mushrooms and a horseradish aioli. I tested the belly for him, it was excellent and a gracious cut - and the sauce paired quite well.

Despite the orgy of (unhealthy) beer hall noshing, we also opted for dessert, a crisp, flaky waffle with a fresh churned butter honey and figs - resplendent, particularly paired with the Norwegian Winter ale we sampled alongside it.

One constructive criticisms (which a few faithful readers have asked me to be 'less polite' on) would be the side dishes need some work - the frites were a bit 'vacuous' in their crispness (although the aioli dip was amazing); I would also not order the cavalo nero again (too bitter).

Overall - a good joinder of old world and new world, and a good time will be had by all who attend. Prosit!

Chicago 2008: La Madia

I stumbled upon La Madia with my brother and his wife a few weeks back, and was shocked to learn that this inexpensive, high-quality Italian in River North had been open for some time. Hidden (well, not really) at 59 West Grand, this stylish spot tries (successfully) to make pizza elegant and wine accessible as represented in the motto "Art of Pizza. Love of Wine."

The space has a nice, modern decor, and is well laid out in partitioned rooms for that 'always crowded' feel. Sharp, varied light fixtures impress and the open kitchen makes the restaurant feel personable despite the modern flair.

The waitstaff was helpful and very excited about the menu, making good recommendations on appetizers, pizzas and entrees. However, the assistance on the wine list was not as useful ("all our wines are good").

That said, the wine list has a wide variety of very good bottles, with price points ranging from a $19 Spanish Temparnillo to a handful of big Italians (Ornelleia '04, Tignanello '95/'97) and some top shelf Americans (Quintessa, Dominus). I was impressed by the range and also the accessibility across diners' wallets, particularly the specials by the glass.

We tried the Avignonesi, Nobile di Montepulciano '05 based on our server's recommendation (but that was really to drink something off the list). It was decent, a little lighter than expected, with some tartness, but a good bottle to pair with the appetizers.

We started with a special appetizer of the day, a taleggio-stuffed fig wrapped in prosciutto with frisee. It was nice and looked decadent on the plate, but the balsamic sauce was a little on the salty side (and this is a big thing for me to say, as faithful readers know - I prefer the taste of salt to most all else).

This was followed by the recommended (and excellent) heirloom beet salad (yellow and red), with arugula, salted almonds and gorgonzola dulce. A really tremendous set of ingredients and preparation, with a nice dressing - thin shaved beets, great flavor across the dish. We paired this with an heirloom tomato (red and green) caprese; the bufala mozzarella was solid but I could do without the addition of roasted peppers. It had a strong basil flavor with very tasty (and peppery) green tomatoes accenting the more traditional heirlooms.

At this point, I would point out that these appetizers were too much along with the bread for the three of us - the portions of both salads were immense, and we were just getting to the good stuff.

At its core La Madia is a fancy pizzeria. We ordered three types: taleggio with roasted vin santo grapes; 'Triple pepperoni' with truffle oil (a strangely excellent mix of flavors balanced by fresh basil); and a housemade fennel sausage with mozzarella.

All of the pizzas had superb flavors and toppings. While the crust was a little, well, crusty for my tastes (not as salty/soft as I prefer), my dining companions thought it was just about perfect.


I complement the chef on his selection of such unorthodox combinations of toppings, cheeses and spices - the flavors explode in your mouth and are really unique and tasty.

Check it out, try some new wines - but save room for the pizza, no matter how tempting the appetizers all look!

Chicago 2008: Duchamp

I had the opportunity to sample Michael Taus' new spot, Duchamp, in the old Meritage space in Bucktown/Wicker Park. On this first visit, my dining companions were two newlyweds celebrating their return to fine Chicago cuisine from their honeymoon, so we sampled a range of the items from the menu.

The intimate space is laid out with communal tables, and the decor is warm and modern at the same time. Small candles and dishes of various types of salt line the tables, lending to a subdued but convivial atmosphere.

The wine list was interesting, with a selection of affordable wines from every corner of the globe. We ordered a wine none of us had ever tried before at our server's suggestion, a 2004 Saint Emilion, Chateau des Laurets. The wine was good with earthy undertones, and relatively inexpensive.

We started with a lobster & mushroom pizza, which was a tasty, thin crust and flavorful mushrooms and sauce.

For a main dish, I had the bouillabaisse, which was decent, with a light browth including bok choy and mushroom, and generous portions of sea bass, mussels and rock shrimp.

The newlyweds tried the pork shoulder and the "steak and eggs". The pork was served with a puttanesca sauce, and lacked flavor - tasting a bit like wet tomatoes. The Duchamp version of "Steak & Eggs" was excellent, with grilled skirt steak and a parmesan–smoked bacon quiche & roasted shallot sauce

A fun new spot with solid, savory dishes that are perfect as Chicago's cold weather blows in.....

Chicago 2008: graham elliot

In the gutted space that was once home to my first real fine dining experience (the sadly passed Harvest), a new modern foodie paradise has sprung up. Ranking top among the Summer 2008 new arrivals on the Chicago scene, the cool, rough hewn interior of graham elliot (after the chef, Graham Elliot Bowles) is as refreshing as the lemons and limes framing the room. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are showcased simply in frames in lieu of art, and elicits an immediate wonder and anticipation of the meal. Don't go here if you, like so many poor souls, have an irrational fear of citrus - or if you don't dig music a bit too loud during dinner - as these are critical elements of the laid-back ambiance of the dining room.

The service was very attentive and the servers quite pleasant, clad in jeans and black tees for a more casual feel, but still getting the hang of things (as expected in a new restaurant).

As the occasion was a going away dinner, we were anxious to try the much ballyhooed (no, I don't really know what that word means) wine list. There is a good selection of value-priced bottles and glasses, well laid-out in order to allow the uninitiated to pair wines by food type. However, the reserve list for the more savvy wine enthusiast is lacking; limited list and only newer vintages. All said, we had a wonderful bottle of champagne (Rose Laurent Perrier) to start and a decent Neyers 'Ames', Napa Cab '05 (which was too young to drink, but very tasty).

After several great suggestions from our waiter, the food began rolling out. Replacing the traditional bread and butter on the table was a fresh bowl of popcorn with a savory tomato and cheddar flavoring. For starters, our table tried a range of salads and hot appetizers, including heirloom beets served with a whipped goat cheese; a "non-traditional" caesar salad served with "twinkie" croutons (a toasted brioche filled with liquid cheese); well-cooked scallops with peas and a carrot yogurt sauce; and an amazing truffle gnocchi.

The fish entrees we sampled were good, but not great. The Hawaiian Wahoo and the BLT Salmon were both well-prepared but overly strong on flavorings. The chocolate brownie dessert was an excellent finish to the meal.