Corfu 2009: Part 1

As I gaze out upon the Albanian coast from my perch in a private villa I have secured for a week's holiday in the mountains of Northeastern Corfu, I reflect on the volumes of unpublished posts that await my avid followers and shudder. This is the first meaningful break I have taken since my sojourn in Hong Kong at the turn of the year (and from which, quite painfully still have a few notable unpublished notes pending). Fear not, gentle reader! This holiday is one of pure relaxation, and should give me ample time to do some much-needed catch-up.

But before I get to that, let's talk Greece. I have spent time in Athens, hiked the Vikos Gorge and Mount Olympus in my younger years, but had never experienced the Greek Isles before Monday.

In the weakened economy, my gal and I decided to take a vacation of extended length to capitalize on the cheap flights and unreserved rooms across the globe. But why Corfu?, one might ask. This isle known for its wide range of visitors; from the backpacking denizens of the Pink Palace to the private-jet arrivals of British Royals and Russian Oligarchs? Does it hold culinary and travel delights away from the cheesy tourist scene of Corfu Town, over populated with Pizza Hut and "real Greek and English food" combo cafeteria?

The answer is a simple "yes" but requires a bit more work. In my search for a luxurious yet affordable ("ITE") spot, I read a review of The Rou Estate (www.rouestate.co.uk - apologies for the lack of imbedded link but trying, for the sake of efficient posting for those thirsty for my modest suggestions, to use this new-fangled iPhone). This little village, reclaimed from the Greek wilderness by some budding entrepreneurs, consists of 10 restored stone villas, formerly the residences of a forgotten mountain town, complete with a town square, a granary (now a massage parlour) and a pool at the precipice of the mountain face (well, okay, that's new). Each of the villas (ranging from 2 - 4 bedrooms all with ensuite bathrooms) is beautifully restored, matching cool stone walls/floors and the smaller doorways/windows of the old homestead with Miele ranges/dishwashers and modern cabinetry and bathroom fixtures. Each villa has its own plunge pool (also new) with a spectacular view of the mountainside, the ocean and the mountainous Albanian coast.

What you won't find: a concierge, bellmen, roomservice, etc. A maid comes once daily, and upon arrival your fridge and hamper will be fully stocked with several bottles of (quite nice) local wines, feta cheese, ham, fresh bread, local olive oil & vinegar, as well as some more "western" goods (chips, cookies, crackers). There is also a few sets of dried pasta and enough produce to make a passable putanesca sauce and finish with local fruits for dessert.

This all makes you feel much more like you are returning to your private home in a small mountain community than going to a vacation villa. I would note that the drive through the mountains can be quite harrowing, on a "mostly unmade" set of switchbacks up from the main road, but once you arrive you feel like you have come to a truly unique, special home.

More on dining, boating and shopping in this area to come. Stay tuned.