Chicago 2009: Nightwood

"Guys guys guys" to quote a friend - I am going to stop apologizing as an introduction to each post. I am not keeping up in an efficient way with the blog. I am, however, still eating quite healthily (well, not healthy eating but plenty of eating), so here we go with a few to the end the 2009 vintage of Cress_Travel.

The new spot Nightwood is attracting a diverse bohemian and foodie crowd to the Pilsen neighborhood. However, my arrival on a wet evening a few days before the winter solstice did not start well. There is no valet parking (which is de rigueur for Chicago restaurants). While typically this is not a problem for me, I atypically happened to be driving in from an appointment on the South Side this particular evening. The hostess told us there would be "ample on street parking", which was not the case. But $10 to the local burrito stand manager secured me a spot for 2 hours that was a mere 2 blocks away.

Feeling a bit flustered from the parking adventure, my dining companion and I approached the restaurant with a cautious gait. As we passed the large plate glass windows and saw a large crowd enjoying hearty dishes, further bolstered by a well structured outdoor area with a modernized fire pit (although the weather made it a but untenable that evening), our tune started to change.

The uber-hip waitstaff seated us and reviewed what is a very affordable and nice wine list as well as an inventive cocktail menu. My lady friend sipped on a "Campfire Sidecar" (which had a unique smoked pear flavor as its twist) as I selected a 2006 Burgundy (Xavier Monnot Clos de La Fussiere, Maranges Premier Cru) at the recommendation of the waiter, which was quite nice (light and paired well with the food).

The layout of the restaurant is very interesting - there is dining room seating, bar seating, a bar-style open kitchen seating area in back, and a separate wine room (in addition to the outdoor seating). The bathrooms are also done in a wholly different style (almost a Victorian house style - think a nicer version of the Violet Hour). We sat in the dining room, but I recommend the large open kitchen bar for diners wanting to get the full experience.

A unique bread basket for an evening fine dining establishment, homemade scones with a honey glaze flavor, were an unexpected change of pace to start.

The hand-written daily menu had a lot to choose from, and so we shared four dishes: two appetizers and two mains.

For starters, a well-flavored "torn" burrata (imported from Italy, not house-made) was paired with roasted pears and fennel and a fresh piece of baguette. The burrata itself was smooth and buttery and went well with the pear/fennel combination.

The second appetizer was an excellent ricotta gnocchi with roasted red peppers and cashew butter. The gnocchi was almost "springy" and had a rich red pepper taste (although not overwhelming as is sometimes the case), and the unique cashew butter "paste" was a real hit.

For the mains, we shared an innocuously titled "pork loin" and the duck breast.

To our delight, the pork loin actually was Flintstone-style - an enormous pork loin on the rib bone with a huge swath of belly attached. This was paired with fresh warmed beets and chopped olives. An amazing, eye-catching dish, but not one we could hope to finish without a small army.

The duck breast (while not as much of a shock-and-awe spectacle) had a great marinade, served with baked beans (with bacon of course) and cornbread, garnished with chopped celery and apple. The baked beans "taste right" and had a nice spice to them.

Overall, a fantastic meal but with one serving gaffe - the duck breast was nearly cold when it arrived (assume this was due to a mismatch on cooking time on the pork). So take a cab and try the chef's "bar" . . . or you will be behind the times as this trendy haven flourishes.

Hong Kong 2009: Lamma Island (Rainbow), Dragon-i

Back in Hong Kong for some meetings (business not pleasure this time) but had the occasion to try a few new spots whilst here. Have some downtime due to the time zone difference, so thought I would share (despite not being caught up on my many other drafts, I know).

One thing you must do in Hong Kong is experience the boating culture. Every day (and especially on the weekends) hundreds of brave junks and sailboats test their mettle in the beautiful harbor amidst one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

A popular destination is Lamma Island, a small fishing village on an island about 30 minutes from Central's public pier. Coasting off in a lazy junk on a sunny day is a great experience, and arriving and open-air restaurants abutting the floating fisherman's huts is doubly so. The fresh fish of every variety sits in tanks waiting for your order. Rainbow (two restaurants on the small cove's boardwalk of probably six total restaurants) seems to be the most popular; it also has a dedicated ferry if you aren't up to renting your own junk. Try the fried calamari, large slices fresh fried in a good batter; the prawns, prepared a variety of ways; and of course the whole fish, served with vegetables and easy to eat - they have "mostly" deboned it for you.

For a markedly different experience, try the nightclub-cum-restaurant Dragon-i just above Lan Kwai Fong in Central. With both indoor and outdoor dining, the "all you can eat Dim Sum" lunch, at about USD$20 per person, is a good value and an amazing alternative to fast food. The service is swift, and the dishes seems to start arriving as soon as your ordr them. Not a buffet-type all-you-can-eat, this is a fresh cooked (steamed, fried or seared depending on the chosen dumplings) option for you to experience good authentic dim sum gluttony. I would say it does not measure up to the Princess Garden in London or Luk Yu Tea House (just a few blocks away from Dragon-i, I think I noted in my last journal from Hong Kong) in pure quality, but has a good "scene" and is definitely an acceptable option for authentic cuisine lovers.

Corfu 2009: Part 1

As I gaze out upon the Albanian coast from my perch in a private villa I have secured for a week's holiday in the mountains of Northeastern Corfu, I reflect on the volumes of unpublished posts that await my avid followers and shudder. This is the first meaningful break I have taken since my sojourn in Hong Kong at the turn of the year (and from which, quite painfully still have a few notable unpublished notes pending). Fear not, gentle reader! This holiday is one of pure relaxation, and should give me ample time to do some much-needed catch-up.

But before I get to that, let's talk Greece. I have spent time in Athens, hiked the Vikos Gorge and Mount Olympus in my younger years, but had never experienced the Greek Isles before Monday.

In the weakened economy, my gal and I decided to take a vacation of extended length to capitalize on the cheap flights and unreserved rooms across the globe. But why Corfu?, one might ask. This isle known for its wide range of visitors; from the backpacking denizens of the Pink Palace to the private-jet arrivals of British Royals and Russian Oligarchs? Does it hold culinary and travel delights away from the cheesy tourist scene of Corfu Town, over populated with Pizza Hut and "real Greek and English food" combo cafeteria?

The answer is a simple "yes" but requires a bit more work. In my search for a luxurious yet affordable ("ITE") spot, I read a review of The Rou Estate (www.rouestate.co.uk - apologies for the lack of imbedded link but trying, for the sake of efficient posting for those thirsty for my modest suggestions, to use this new-fangled iPhone). This little village, reclaimed from the Greek wilderness by some budding entrepreneurs, consists of 10 restored stone villas, formerly the residences of a forgotten mountain town, complete with a town square, a granary (now a massage parlour) and a pool at the precipice of the mountain face (well, okay, that's new). Each of the villas (ranging from 2 - 4 bedrooms all with ensuite bathrooms) is beautifully restored, matching cool stone walls/floors and the smaller doorways/windows of the old homestead with Miele ranges/dishwashers and modern cabinetry and bathroom fixtures. Each villa has its own plunge pool (also new) with a spectacular view of the mountainside, the ocean and the mountainous Albanian coast.

What you won't find: a concierge, bellmen, roomservice, etc. A maid comes once daily, and upon arrival your fridge and hamper will be fully stocked with several bottles of (quite nice) local wines, feta cheese, ham, fresh bread, local olive oil & vinegar, as well as some more "western" goods (chips, cookies, crackers). There is also a few sets of dried pasta and enough produce to make a passable putanesca sauce and finish with local fruits for dessert.

This all makes you feel much more like you are returning to your private home in a small mountain community than going to a vacation villa. I would note that the drive through the mountains can be quite harrowing, on a "mostly unmade" set of switchbacks up from the main road, but once you arrive you feel like you have come to a truly unique, special home.

More on dining, boating and shopping in this area to come. Stay tuned.

Virginia Beach 2009: 456 Fish

A brief update on a nice fish spot I found in my recent travels as I work to slog through my seemingly unending backlog of posts to put out there.

I had travelled to Norfolk, Virginia for an event on an aircraft carrier, which was pretty cool, but the food left something to be desired, so we retired to the trendy block of Norfolk that sports a number of new restaurants and clubs.

We entered the clean, classic interior of 456 Fish (thus named for its address at 456 Granby Street) to, well, have some good fish.

The hour was late but luckily Norfolk seems to have a bit of a late evening scene, so the kitchen was open until 11pm. The restaurant's decor was reminiscent of an older club-style lounge, evoking a newly redo art deco steakhouse more than a well-recommended fish joint.

The short wine list was quite well done, with something for everyone - a good variety of all varietals and regions. We settled on a white (for the fish) despite my protestation that we should opt for a lighter red, but I was overruled. The '07 Flora Springs Soliloquy did the job quite nicely, however.

I opted for the Lobster Spring Rolls, which were tasty and more like egg rolls, with a lot of cabbage and some other vegetables stuffed in with the morsels of lobster. They were a good portion and served with a decent sweet and sour dipping sauce with chili flakes.

I also sampled the Fried Calamari, which lived up to the "award winning" moniker on the menu. Done with corn meal and lightly fried, served with a pesto mayonnaise and a marinara sauce, these two appetizers were both very good ways to start our late night meal.

At the recommendation of the waiter, I chose the Grouper for my main (the special that evening). This dish reminded me why I do like white fish - it was meaty, light flavored and served over plantains and sauteed spinach. An Italian-style tomato sauce complemented the subtle flavor of the fish nicely.

Overall, when we left the restaurant we were very pleased, and although it was late felt very well-served. A prime place to try in this up and coming section of the city.

Chicago 2009: Japonais

As usual, I am catching up on my enormous backlog and places from my past. I was privileged enough to enjoy Japonais in Chicago the first week it opened; since then, I have hosted many a client, friend and even several parties at the reclaimed loft space on the river.

This Chicago restaurant has remained a perennial "hot spot", and kept the quality high. This is one of those rare restaurants that carves out a niche of its own and becomes an "old standby". Trendy, good food seems to persist at this River North gem - if you haven't been, you should go today.

When you do enter the half club / half restaurant in Summer, make sure you reserve an outdoor table, either on the terrace in front of the restaurant, or downstairs on the river - a unique spot in the city.

After many meals at this Japanese "steakhouse", I can recommend a number of dishes that constitute a perfect meal.

Begin with the lobster spring roll - crispy and hot, rich chunks of lobster wrapped in a thin pastry and salted lightly with a side of mango salsa are a delight to the senses. Perhaps a richer dish than what one envisions when Japanese cusine comes to mind, but perfection in a hot appetizer.

My favorite speciality of the house from the sushi bar is the Maguro Moriwase - two thick slices of Toro, Otoro and Chu-Toro, succulent parts of the Tuna that are of the highest quality in the Midwest.

Other sushi dishes are well-done and taste as if you were at the fish market in Tokyo - I don't know the secret, but the purveyors of Japonais' seafood are clearly artisans. Other favorites include barbeque pork "manju buns" and various gyoza.

For entrees, the Samuri Tuna Steak and Le Quack Japonais (Roast Duck) are excellent choices. If you make it further than this, you should look to a complete and creative dessert menu, including the signature "donuts with green tea semifreddo", a rich and subtle dish that caps off a perfect meal.

Hopefully, you will find a time to host your friends and family at the best Japanese Steakhouse in the Midwest.

London 2009: Locanda Ottoemezzo

After a long day of fine beer at the Ladbroke Arms, my dining companion and I stumbled over to Kensington Square to experience what she called the "best trendy authentic Italian in London".

Upon entering Locanda Ottomezzo, one is struck by the Fellini-motivated theme - old-school movie posters, many with the "8 1/2" (yes, that's what Ottomezzo means, I think). The restaurant even has its own movie poster, highlighting the intimate, small dining room with red stucco walls.

In addition to the exclusively Italian staff, who speaks a very sexy broken English, the dinner also includes a reasonably-priced Italian wine list (we chose a Pinot Nero from Niedermayr of the 2004 vintage, which needed some decanting but was smooth and delectable).

After we ordered our entrees, we gorged on fresh bread with LO's own olive oil - peppery but smooth with no aftertaste. We started with a fresh mozzarella and ripe tomatoes (housemade and silky - the cheese, not the tomatoes, silly) - a very well-done traditional Italian dish.

The speciality of the house (which my companion ordered) was the risotto with mushrooms. What makes this simple dish the house favorite is that fact that is it scooped table side from a massive Parmesan wheel - exquisite presentation and flavor to match.

I am a sucker for fresh noodles and the homemade papardelle fit the bill. The realization that this was a true fine Italian restaurant was the veal ragout - the sauce was surprisingly light; an elegant sauce

We were stuffed from our long day of imbibing both London's fine drafts and subtle Italian dishes, so we skipped desert, but were treated to light, homemade biscotti as we finished our wine.

Overall, a perfect Italian respite in the heart of a nice London neighborhood. Even if I used "homemade" too many times in the review, it exemplifies this fine little restaurant tucked away in the Kensington neighborhood.

London 2009: Ladbroke Arms

Dear reader, I am going to slip back in to my terrible habit of writing some of my au courant experiences; I wish I could wring the time out of my schedule to slog through the dozens of worthy draft posts I have not given due attention. However, my passion for my recent holiday weekend in London drives me to share what was just about a perfect weekend.

So, I will start with what was an auspicious Thursday in London's Notting Hill neighborhood. I had landed early that morning on the overnight flight; a few hours of sleep and a desire to get on London time led me to one of my favorite pubs in this fine city.

I went with two friends to the Ladbroke Arms, a venerable gastro-pub just off the Holland Park Road (I love how Britons use "the" in front of most roads). This was not my first visit to the Ladbroke Arms, but it had been several years. Nestled away from the traffic off a street called Ladbroke Road off a street called Ladbroke Court off a street called Ladbroke something across from a police station (confusing, right?) is a well laid out pub with a front garden area. Run by a team of French folks, they have brought truly good food to the pub experience.

More surprising than the anticipated French-style service (they mostly ignore Americans wearing ironic t-shirts) was the fact that, waiting for our third friend to arrive, I got a sunburn (you may ask, do they have those in London?) sipping London Pride (served warm-ish, of course) on the patio.

Even more surprising than all of this is the fact that they served a beautiful salad with fresh cooked rare salmon and frites.

I don't have a lot more to say than this pub gives you the real feel of the London experience without having to suffer through the terrible food that usually accompanies the experience. As a friend I once had recommended to the pub said, the Ladbroke had me "cradled in its Arms", and I couldn't think of a better place to start four perfect days in London with weather more appropriate to the South of France than London in the waning days of May. Go there.

Houston 2009: Tony's

I implore my readers to forgive me for forgoing the updates from recent jaunts to New York and Montreal to introduce you to an amazing location for fine dining in Houston, Texas.

Rarely considered a bastion of fine dining, Houston rises early to summer, and at the end of my first day in 90-degree heat in 2009, I was treated to the best this West Texas city has to offer. I felt it incumbent upon me to make you aware post-haste of the potential captured in this city's long-standing fine dining establishment, Tony's.

While I would have chosen a bit more subtle and nuanced decor, as I entered Tony's traditional "old school" Italian spot I realized I was in for a treat. For starters, the surreal bar area sported no less than three Secret Service agents dipping fresh strawberries in powdered sugar, as if at the end of a long journey of dining. I later discovered they were there to protect the evening of the current and past governors of Texas (both were present at the table next to us). Such Southern, nay, Texan (there is a substantial difference) royalty would only dine in the "best of the best", I figured.

As the sommelier tantalized us with his suggestions, we commiserated over some of the wines not available - sold out - as it would seem they had given up my first few choices of great juices to Texas' finest diners earlier in the year. Despite this inital setback, the talented wine steward made alternative suggestions for some amazing wines, none of which I had ever sampled before. Our party of four indulged in fine vintages from France and Napa: a Chateau Dauzac ('99 Margaux, not the best year, but softened to near perfection at its tenth anniversary); Ghost Block ('06 Napa Cab) with a unique cinnamon taste; and Hollywood & Vine, 2480 ('06 Napa Cab) with a heartier, tannic blend that stood perfectly with our main courses.

Before we ordered, the fine Texan gentleman I had the pleasure of dining with arranged for Tony himself to visit our table. Tony is a consummate restaurateur, having "kept his hands dirty" in the kitchen over a 45-year career to ensure that the menu and ingredients were true to his Italian heritage - farm ripened produce, house-made pastas, and nouveau cuisine entrees that married the "old world" with inventive new preparations and sauces.

With Tony's sage recommendations at hand, we attacked the menus our attentive servers appeared with. Favorites rarely seen in Texas (or outside of Italy), such as zucchini blossoms, were scattered amongst more traditional comfort foods from Texas - steaks and chops, fresh fish from the gulf, and lightly fried appetizers.

After we ordered, one of Tony's suggestions immediately came as an amuse bouche - a perfectly prepared morsel of foie gras that was simmered in a reduction evoking sharp cherry and salt flavors, tantalizing our taste buds for what was to come.

All of our party opted to start with the unique (for America) zucchini blossom stuffed with lobster and crab meat, lightly fried and delicate in its preparation. It was "Texas sized" compared to my expectation, but excellent.

As we struggled to decide between the fresh pastas and the heartier dishes for our mains, our waiter suggested an intermezzo course that sampled the house-made pastas and sauces, which we graciously accepted. Tony would choose a selection for us to share.

When the pastas arrived, we were delighted with a plate of three tastes: ravioli "amulote" with spinach & cream; Triangoli ravioli stuffed with veal in a light but rich sauce; and Papardelle perfectly constructed and slathered in Tony's own bolognese sauce (a bit salty but very tasty).

For my entree, I selected the bone-in rib eye (having been "dared" by the waiter that it was the "best steak in Texas"). This truly was a memorable steak: flavorful, perfectly cooked, and served with flash fried green beans and duck-fat roasted new potatoes.

Veritably stuffed from our multi-course fine dining experience, we passed on dessert but were treated to the signature strawberry tree (the house specialty even the Secret Service indulged in); fresh strawberries and meringues with a powdered sugar dipping bowl.

The only real negatives at Tony's are aesthetic - the space has a campy feel with a 1980's gauche decor; large monuments to bad sculpture and a too-loud piano man mar the otherwise amazing experience. However, with good company and excellent service, it is easy to look past the decor and acoustics at this downtown "see and be seen eatery".

All in all, an amazing dining experience and from here on out, my top recommendation for anyone heading south to Texas.

Musings

I have not written much about myself or my personal perspectives other than how they are reflected in my writing about food and travel. Today I just feel like noting that a lot of times, due to my schedule, I find it impossible to muster the creative energies to attack the backlog of posts I owe to my readers. I hope this changes - I am excited about the line-up to come: New York, Montreal, London and Minneapolis are on the docket!

Chicago 2009: Ina's

I awoke early on what promised to be the first real "summer" day in Chicago. The sun was bright and I gathered my paper and a new book, and headed to grab a coffee and some breakfast.

Unfortunately, a heavy summer storm emerged and I retreated back into my house to do some chores. The rain passed quickly, and while the sky remained dim it was a warm day. I wandered out to my favorite local breakfast place, Ina's. Ina Pinkey's accolades are numerous and Chicagoland diners have been titillated since she was crowned the "breakfast queen" several decades ago.

The charm of this West Loop institution is like a country homestead in the city. One of the unique trademark salt-and-pepper shakers sits on each table. The staff is friendly and efficient, and nice touches like Ina's signature baked goods and a full carafe of coffee on each table appear within seconds of arrival. I should note that while I have been to Ina's on dozens and dozens of occasions for breakfast, brunch and lunch, I have never been there for dinner, despite the award-winning fried chicken and other good homestyle options.

So, I hope you don't mind if I focus on the sweet and savory breakfast options for this post. Whether it is the signature dishes like "Heavenly Hots" (thin pancakes with hot fruit compote), Scrapple or Frittata; the fine omelets and other baked goods; or the fresh made soups, salads and sandwiches - Ina and her kitchen turn out wonderful, fresh (and largely organic) treats. The coffee is strong and good, and all-natural, fresh-squeezed orange, tomato, grapefruit and other juices are on hand.

It is the perfect spot for a casual family gathering, an informal business luncheon, or even a quiet spot to read a newspaper or a book. This morning, I had the pleasure of sampling the oatmeal pancakes with blueberries and fresh syrup while I read an exceptional newly published tome (The Whole Five Feet, but Christopher Beha). The perfect start to a weekend.

Chicago 2009: Goose Island Clybourn Heritage Collection Part 1 of 2

Goose Island set out to do something no other brewmaster could accomplish - make a set of craft beers to compete with wines. Ones that could be paired with foods. And titilate the tastes of ladies.

The first shot the Halls and their crew took at this were the popular Matilda, Bourbon County Stout, Pere Jacque, and Demolition about two years ago. This year, they released the evolution of this concept with four new beers: a new Demolition, Naughty Goose, Juliet and Sophia.

These four evoke flavors of their intended opponents. For example, the Naughty Goose is the beer equivalent of a Pinot Noir, whilst the new Demolition is a competitor for a heady white. I sampled two of the four while waiting for the Cubs' home opener to start after an icy rain delay in early April.

The Naughty Goose is a dead ringer for a pinot. Light but solid "American Brown Ale" served in a pint glass, backed with the rest of the tall 22 ounce (excuse me, "1 Pint 6 Fluid Ounces", according to the bottle). The bottle is meant to be drank within a half year of initial bottling. The beer is indulgent while light for a brown ale, with some hint of chocolate. Very good, very tasty.

The bomber of Demolition was a "Belgian Style Golden", with some bitterness and a heavy body for a golden ale. Some honey citrus flavour pares down the bitterness, and my British female drinking companion preferred this to the Naughty Goose.

More to come when Juliet and Sophia are released later this month. . . . .

Chicago 2009: Branch 27

It was with some excitement that I accepted an invitation to dine with friends last week at Branch 27, a new spot by some trendy-dining heavyweights (backers of Rockit, chef from North Pond). All of the first-on-the-scene publications, bloggers, daily updates had heralded its opening. "Love the space, love the food, another must try from veterans, etc".

I will concur that the space is a nice one. Located in the former 27th Ward Library space, the decor is understated and comfortable. A decent sized bar area unfolds into the larger two-tier dining room and finally into a unique skylight/atrium room. The tables were full, but the spacing was adequate and one did not feel as "crammed in" as would be typical at such a restaurant.

But, dear readers, I am sorry to say that the big names behind this new spot focused more on the PR than on the food and service.

Granted, I was there in the first week of opening, so I will give some wide berth for errors and mistakes in service. However, before we even began dining, the combination of too-infrequent wait service (one of our party of four always had an empty glass) and too-frequent bus service (many of us lost plates / utensils if they were left idle for a second) was disappointing. Too, several of the beers on the well-compiled beer list were unavailable; which seems a bit of a gaff for an American bistro (I could live with one beer being "sold out", but 3 or 4?).

On the subject of food, I am of two minds. On the one hand, the PR around this opening is painstaking to differentiate the spot in its simplicity / lack of "fussy" food. As such, "normal" dishes that might not excite me relative to the latest and greatest the culinary scene in Chicago has to offer should be forgiven or handicapped. However, these "normal" dishes tried to evoke some creative flair: mozzarella egg roll (served lukewarm and flavorless), mussels & frites in interesting dishware (again, lukewarm and less than exciting to the palette), a highly recommended half chicken (very fatty, low-grade chicken and cold brussel sprouts). The flatbreads with exotic toppings were a highlight of the kitchen's talent, but the last two pieces were whisked away as entrees arrived without regard for us wanting to finish.

So, I may try it again to see if the visit was premature on the first open-to-the-public Saturday, but with my long list of new spots to try, I was disappointed that this restaurant was so over-hyped by the literati of the food world.

Chicago 2009: The Grocery Bistro

The Grocery Bistro opened a few weeks ago in a star-crossed spot near Washington and Halsted, which has played home to fast food, sushi and offices over the last dozen years I have lived in the West Loop. For the sake of anyone who enjoys fine food and a convivial setting, let's hope that this is the last change we see for some time.

First, kudos to the staff for not flinching at my terribly inappropriate attire. I had come straight from having a small surgical procedure performed, and was famished - and my dedicated handler thought she would treat a somewhat still-anesthetized patient in sweats to a very late lunch.

We arrived a few minutes before five, hoping to grab a quick bite in an empty restaurant before my pain medication began to wear off. However, even at this early hour, the restaurant was fully booked (in its third week of being open). Rather than turn us away and scoff at the badly dressed rubes who had stumbled into their establishment, we were welcomed to sit at the large, central communal table.

[Note to those of you not under the influence of hospital administered narcotics: the Bistro is BYOB, and conveniently located next door is Perman Wine Selections (former home to Bennett Wine Studio), which sports a relatively small but very nice selection of wines and some craft beers for every price range.]

Upon entering the restaurant, I was reminded of the elegant yet "city farmhouse" chic elements of a number of bistros I have visited in the past year in Brooklyn (iCi, L'Epicerie). Absent the red-striped banner sign on the glass (which makes it look like an actual grocery store), I would applaud the owners on their design touches. This is transcendent through the place settings and the very cool long, thin silverware.

Now, for the important stuff. The food. As aforementioned, we arrived at the very beginning of the dinner hour, only to find that the Bistro has an early bird special - a 3 course prix fixe menu for only $25. This, friends and loyal readers, is a true steal.

Perusing the ceiling-height chalkboard menu, we studied an interesting type of French fusion cooking; comforting French fare with spices from around the globe, as well as a few more "new American" dishes.

For starters, I tried the steak tartare, which was very rich and cut with only a modest amount of capers and onion. As a result, the amount of steak was more substantial than a typical tartare. A small quail egg and thick peppery crackers also accompanied the dish. In sum, as the waiter promised - "5-star" - but could use some more capers to enhance the high-quality meat's spice.

My charming orderly had the night's special "tuna two ways"; a tempura tuna roll and tuna tartare. The tuna roll was decent but the tuna tartare, mixed with a spicy sauce and bits of corn and Japanese beet, was exemplary.

The main courses, however, really stole the show. The waiter convinced me the while the burgers were solid, I should really try the lamb. I had a taste for burgers, but this thirst was slaked by the steak tartare.

The roasted chili-crusted lamb chops were served with a yogurt creamed spinach and curried couscous. The lamb was perfectly cooked and well-spiced, and while I am not a big lamb guy, I would order this dish again.

My partner ordered the highly recommended roasted garlic risotto with artichokes and mushrooms. The very nicely-sized portion was a deep gray color, as the risotto was further flavored with simmer mushroom and truffle sauce. Excellent and a must-have.

For dessert, we sampled the banana and bacon tiramisu, which was both inventive and scrumptious.

I truly enjoyed this dining experience; in addition to the food, the attitude and feel of the restaurant seemed different than the traditional "new hot spot". It felt like an authentic modern bistro. And it backed up its sensibility with excellence in dining.

Chicago 2009: Tocco

Ciao Bruno!

It is with some pleasure that I went to try the second outpost of authentic Italian cuisine by Bruno Abate. Housed in a stark, modern space in lower Bucktown, Tocco's interior is a contrast to the trendy, yet reserved Mediterranean hues that decorate Follia, Bruno's original spot in the West Loop. I would deem the post-modern art deco, black and white interior and sharp, clear tables to give the feel of a European club.

We arrived early for our reservation, an our table wasn't ready, but we were offered the communal table if we didn't want to wait. We opted to sit communally and begin our dining experience.

Our helpful server gave us the run down on the menu (which is similar to Follia, but with a few additional wood-fired options including a range of calzone), and left us to peruse the short but well-chosen wine list. Also similar to Follia, the largely Italian wine selections provide for all budgets, from simple Italian staples to reserve selections including an amazing '04 Ornelliaia, which we splurged on.

After sampling the fine wine, we started with one of the appetizers unique to the Tocco menu, fried gnocchi. The fried dough was a little chewy and served with three shaved meats; an amazing tender shaved ham, a light mortadella and fine prosciutto. We also had a Follia favorite, breseola with a small salad of fresh arugula and shaved parmigiana.

For our main dish, we chose to sample some of the house made pastas, and were not disappointed - it was clearly prepared fresh and cooked to perfection. We shared a pappardella simply served with fresh tomato, basil garlic and some fresh pepper; as well as a spaghetti carbonara, which was unexpectedly light but without sacrificing any of the flavor.

As we finished our wine, we tasted the four cheese selection of the day, and enjoyed all of them - parmigiana, gorgonzola, and two other soft cheeses I can't recall, but both were excellent, topped with truffles and honey.

Bruno happened by the restaurant as we were finishing, and like the true restaurateur he is, welcomed us warmly, making even this trendy reclaimed piece of urban jungle feel like an a friend's Italian kitchen.

I think I can say with certainty that Chicago is lucky to be graced with another outpost for real, fresh Italian delicacies.

Chicago 2009: Zealous

Oh, Zealous. How it pains me that my lack of verbosity, or rather frequency, of my own visits to publish my blog have neglected highlighting one of my first, and best, fine dining experiences. Many years ago, my ex-wife and I were a young couple trying to keep up with the trendiest and hottest new spots. I haven't researched it but I believe it was nearly a decade ago that we ventured into Zealous; Michael Taus continues to ply his trade at creating interesting cuisine and seasonal touches with excellence.

I will pretend for the sake of my readers that I haven't visited Zealous' striking, chic space dozens of times over the years, or that I have never stepped foot in one of the most impressive private dining rooms in Chicago. I will forget the memory of the otherworldly bamboo ringed "head table" in the center of the restaurant, or the multi-story glass wine room that serves as the primary wall separating the private dining area from the main dining room and bar. The accents of pale, grey-green that Chef Taus favors. And the fact that the dishware, while now nearly a decade "out of date" is still avant garde for "new American" restaurants, with place settings that cradle the plate of the amuse, and special dishes designed to highlight each course uniquely.

Now that I have forgotten all that, and the neat and quiet bar that one can lounge in waiting for guest to arrive, I will tell you that the space in the former "outpost" neighborhood in River North, currently besieged by yuppie condominiums, continues to impress with its interior.

I had forgotten (shame on me) that the wine pairings with the tasting menu were cheap (by Chicago or other major city standards), and was tricked into ordering a relatively inexpensive 2000 Bordeaux by our crafty waiter this eve. I had never heard of the Chateau (a Grand Cru from St. Emilion), but for the price it was quite a nice bottle (Destieux 2000).

After I got over my foolishness for forgetting about the variety of varietals I could have sampled with one of the Chef's many tasting menus, my guest and I perused the a la carte menu while noshing on the same herbed rolls I had first tasted years prior. While I still wish the butter was salted, this is one place where I am glad most things remain the same.

Having chosen our path with some recommendations from a helpful, but never hurried, waiter, we sampled the amuse bouche, a crab croquette - panko breaded, herbed with mango sauce, but with a hint of curry. Chef Michael seems to have added an Indian flair into many of his dishes on his current menu, and this light, fleeting curry flavor was a taste of what was sprinkled throughout the menu.

For appetizers, we chose the Scallop and Pork Belly, a fine, well-cooked scallop served atop a sunchoke puree and pea foam bed, with a thicker-than-expected slice of pork belly next to it; and "Taco-Dosas", three curried crepes filled with with oxtail and a blue goat cheese (a bit lighted than a hearty cow's blue). Both were excellent and frankly the highlight of the meal were these appetizers.

For my entree, I tried the duck breast, which was well cooked but still pink; I found it to be a little fatty but that is the way of duck. Next to the duck breast were two moo shu pancakes stuffed with good chinese spices, mushrooms, shoots and a duck confit, which was excellent.

For dessert (my dining companion had a sweet tooth) I tried the seasonal cobbler with vanilla bean beignets. I would say the beignets were good but were not as fresh as they could have been (ie, I suspect the pastry chef made them this morning, not fresh-fried on to my place). The Granny Smith tart with Goldschlager ice cream was excellent.

Lest you think I departed with a "very good not great" feeling from my food review above, I would keep in mind two things: (1) I am bound to be more critical of something I consider to be one of THE institutions of Chicago fine dining and (2) the large a la carte menu is not Chef Taus' speciality or love. I use this one meal to write a review only as I am feeling remiss that I have not yet encouraged my readers to journey to this singular River North spot - the multiple tasting menus (including vegetarian) shine to a degree I cannot express from tonight's relatively simple meal.

In my mind, Michael Taus paved the way from Grant Achatz and Homaru Cantu to do the wonderful things they do in Chicago today; he bridged the "fussy" fine dining gap from the old school of Trotter and the like to the new, fun, experimental cuisine that has succeeded here. If you want to see a chef that really moves things forward, through originality and a sense of space, taste and humility - and yet still is affordable - get to Zealous for a delicious tasting today.

New York 2009: The Perfect Pint

Still many months behind on my posts, I forgot to take notes on a casual dinner tonight, and thus, back in my hotel room, I feel compelled to recordthis occurrence before memory of it slips away.

I ventured to meet two gentlemen at The Perfect Pint, a relatively new outpost of the original spot at 45th and 6th. It was staffed with seemingly authentic young lasses from Ireland, who pointed out with an efficient brusqeness (which seemed very Irish) the best food and drink on their "New York Irish" menu. The "30 beers on tap" is a little misleading, as the excellent Innis & Gunn is only available (as it is everywhere else) in bottles - but both that bottle and the Guiness were well poured and tasty.

I opted for the traditional fish & chips, which were good. Nothing to write Galway about, but ok. In fact, the "New York Irish" cuisine included some great buffalo wings ("Neo Classical Chicken Wings") that were just the right spice and meaty.

Overall, this short post should tell you one thing - The Perfect Pint is a good place for a casual pint (or 10) with some good bar noshes. A nice addition to the fast food and fancy steak in the Midtown East zip code.

Hawaii 2009: Alan Wong

After circling around a block that could be in any city, anywhere, I take the elevator to the 3rd floor of a dingy building. Alan Wong's is old school as it gets, and even though the block that the restaurant sits on could pass readily for 189th and Park, it is a trip to brave, for the foodie in paradise.

The only disappointment was the very good wine list, which was unfortunately, significantly overpriced. Once I got by the sticker shock and ordered some mediocre Spanish vino (which was good - apparently the overpricing issue is regional-specific).

As we finished a few pre-wine cocktails and ordered dinner, I tried two of the house specialities.

For an appetizer, I had a modernized version of the traditional Hawaiian Poke (ahi tuna mixed with onions, spices and sometimes avocado). The chef takes this traditional dish and deep fries it, with large spikes of wonton to make this a "Poke-Pine". It was excellent, albeit difficult to eat.

However, the real treat was the opakupaku; a perfectly texture fish (unusually so), topped with pork hash, evoking a spicy Polynesian fusion. I also had great opakupaku in the hotel the next day - this fish needs to make it back to the mainland.

After dinner, a very cool Hawaiian coffee list was presented with a number of good deserts. I had a decent smorgasbord of creme brulee (5 spoons with various flavors including coffee and mango, among others).

All in all, a good meal at a very special spot in Honolulu. A must-go for foodies when on O'ahu.

Chicago 2009: Farmerie 58

I know, I know - its been ages since I posted. But this will be worth it, even though there are about 20 other spots I should highlight since my last entree (or entry).


I was treated to Farmerie 58 this past weekend by an astute legal eagle friend of mine. I entered the old Republic (pan Asian) spot across from David Burke's and expected anything but what I saw. With limited changes to decor, Farmerie seemed to be a new menu in an old spot. This was further reinforced by the (very) weak wine list, despite a helpful server (who highlighted what we "shouldn't eat" on the menu).


Dear reader, before you write off this restaurant with a local farm focus, know that my dread was completely dispelled by the food which followed. We chose appetizers from the raw bar, including a very nice Hamachi Carpaccio, with a lemongrass & soy sauce. Excellent and fresh tasting. We also shared an "Ocean's Bounty" roll which consisted of a well-executed crispy lobster and salmon.

For an entree, I was again surprised by the Amish Chicken with truffle gnocchi and egg; an awesome example of simple, homestyle ingredients (well, except the truffle) done right. Could not have been more positively surprised by food!

Desserts were also well done. I would try to BYOB, but Farmerie is something to see.

Los Angeles 2009: Katsuya

While I am still a bit behind on finishing of my Hong Kong posts, I had an amazing meal in Los Angeles last week. My friends suggested we try one of Los Angeles-based SBE group's outposts of Katsuya "by Starck".

We met at the Hollywood location, and when I arrived to meet my LA-based friends, the paparazzi were already swarming. I didn't know how popular I had become with this little blog. In all seriousness, the photogs were out to click shots of the star-studded table next to us (Liv Tyler, Orlando Bloom) lounging with their crew in the sharp, Philippe Starck interior.

We noshed on a huge bowl of edamame while we perused the menu and allowed the helpful and knowledgable waitstaff help us to choose a number of delectable courses from the menu.

Our party sampled about seven different dishes; unlike most sushi retaurants, food is served "family style" - and the portions always included one or two pieces per person. The highlight was the crispy rice with spicy tuna, a fried rice cake (almost a bun) topped with finely chopped and well-spiced raw tuna. It was really a unique taste and texture. We also had a nice albacore with crispy onion topping; a refreshing yellowtail with a mint, cilantro and cucumber combination; and a crab roll (which was my least favorite of the meal, decent but too salty). My other favorite dishes included the creamy shrimp tempura (an awesome crispy fried rock shrimp with a smooth, creamy sauce reminiscent of Nobu), the grilled halibut cheeks, which were very firm with good flavor and the kobe beef with foie gras (delicate and smooth).

I will definitely return to this excellent (if a bit overrun by stars) sushi spot in LA.

Hong Kong 2008/2009: Series Post 4 (Petrus)

Taking a short respite from the traditional Chinese dining options in Hong Kong, I secured reservations at the Restaurant Petrus. Perched at the top of the Island Shangri-La hotel, this restaurant exudes an elegant feel, reminiscent of a French fine dining experience in Paris, but without some of the attitude. The views are magnificent (ask for a table by the window, but in reality the whole restaurant is laid out in a thoughtful way that gives nearly every table an amazing view).

The service was impeccable, although there was a bit of hovering. Pleasant live music from a pianist played at just the right level.

We elected to go a la carte (rather than one of the several tasting menus - which, incidentally, were quite reasonable even when paired with wines versus many cities with this type and quality of restaurant), and I personally chose to indulge in the seasonal white truffles, which they had crafted a few dishes around.

But first things first - the wine list. Very impressive. A 10,000+ cellar (including, of course, several pages of carefully selected verticals of Petrus) with both inexpensive and exorbitant wines. I opted to sample a Bordeaux I was unfamiliar with from the spectacular '82 vintage - Chateau du Tertre. I would record it a bargain (but it did end up comprising a plurality of the total bill) versus its comrades from that year; solid earth tones, and opened up nicely. We also had an inexpensive (about $150 US) 2002 Heitz Zinfandel after we finished with the French splurge, which was quite nice.

Once we placed our orders, we were treated to a wide selection of rolls (which were not of the caliber of the place - good, but not great) with an interested array of salts to sample with the unsalted fresh butter. This was a fun aspect of the bread service, with six sea salts and two types of butter to mix and match.

The amuse bouche was a very nice lobster ravioli, served on a spoon with some savory broth. But I was already clamoring for my truffle special.

The waiters arrived and unveiled in the formal way our silver-capped plates, and I was shocked to see the very generous portion of white truffle that had been shaved onto my risotto. The risotto was cooked plainly, with no special flavorings or spices, but was perfectly al dente and smooth. It highlighted what must have been a half of a good size truffle, whose thick shavings tiled across the entire wide bowl of risotto. I was almost distracted from the taste by concern that my credit limit would be exceeded for such a dish when it came time to pay!

For an entree, I had a wild duck with roasted vegetables. This came in two services, the first the duck breast, which was gamy but excellent. The second even better - they had taken the duck (which had been filleted table side) and confited (is this an acceptable verb?) the legs. Delicious.

My dining companions were also gracious enough to share a bit of their choices: a Wagyu sirloin, with a strong salty flavor and buttery texture (but not too fatty as you sometimes see in the Asian market) and a large veal chop, crispy outer skin with a delectable meat inside. Both were excellent and I would probably go with the Wagyu on my next visit.

To end, we sipped some 1977 Port (which they were nice enough to pour by the glass, despite it being sold bottle-only) and noshed on a selection of five fine cheeses. My only complaint with the end of the meal is I never got my hands on a dessert menu; I think our greedy eyes betrayed us when the cheese trolley came by, and our Chinese waiters couldn't imagine anyone taking a further dessert course.

Petrus is a very fine experience, and my compliments to the chef Frederic Chabbert for creating a restaurant that clearly stands up to any of the Paris elite in terms of quality, service and atmosphere. Interestingly, any members of the Shangri-La club receive 15% off dining - an amazing deal as they take this off not just the food but also the wine. Hard location for a foodie in Hong Kong for longer than a day or two to miss.