Friday, March 28, 2008

Chicago 2008 - Takashi


The minimalist new "Asian" restaurant on the Northern side of the Bucktown/Wicker Park trendy-ness has a lot to love. Takashi offers an excellent take on some French-styled Japanese favorites (e.g. raw and seared fish, spring rolls) as well as some more hip American comfort food, which scored big points with the Cress_Travel demographic.  The raw fish was very fresh, with light saucing accompanied by interesting vegetables (hearts of palm and avocado, as an example).

Where Takashi really shone from this diner's perspective was in a succulent rendition of "fried chicken", which consisted of petite chicken wings, fried in duck fat and accompanied by delicious handcut fries, also fried in duck fat.  So good that we ordered seconds for "dessert", much to the surprise of the waiter.  I imagined a chef from a southern diner imprisoned by a master of sushi (with a penchant for precision) and forced to remake a typical "comfort food" dish until it had achieved enlightenment - this was the reincarnation of fried chicken and fries that Siddhartha Gautama himself would consider Nirvana.

The balance of the meal was well crafted, but nothing to the level of art of either the sashimi appetizers nor what I will now call the Nirvana Chicken.  Skate paired with an inventive lobster sausage, Alaskan Halibut wrapped in a nice Yuba Tofu with strong essence of ginger. 

As always, service is a critical component of any good dining experience.  While disappointed that they would not seat me before my party arrived (a small birthday party for a friend), this is standard operating procedure in a big-city restaurant.  The real critique here is that the bar consists of enough space for no more than five or six people, and that is being generous.  I would counsel a waiting area (the hostess stand is practically on top of the door) for such a popular place.  The waitstaff was very friendly and well-versed in the food, so with the exception of the space itself, an overall great experience.