Tucked away on 16th street between Park & Irving is an inventive New American in the old Candela space. Although I commented to my fellow diners that the rustic decor and waitstaff outfits looked a bit "theme park" (Old America meets Bavaria), the service and food are true to the interesting decor. A solid approach to traditional dishes, including much seafood and game (no beef here), is very well-executed.
The appetizers include several seafood dishes and some salads / vegetarian options, as well as a terrific grilled quail married with cheese grits. All well-prepared and quite tasty. For entrees, most of my party opted for seafood options, and everyone was delighted. The Monkfish (whilst a bit small on portion size), Cod and Artic Char were all excellent. The Duck was seasoned with some spicey-ness, and cooked perfectly. In particular, the Artic Char was some of the best I have had, prepared medium rare at the chef's recommendation. Side dishes are recommended (even though each entree comes with its own small sides, they are small).
The global wine list has limited old world (read: french) selections of note, but has a solid selection of excellent pinot noirs that pair well with the entire menu. The prices across the wine list are also very reasonable for a high-quality NYC establishment.
To sum it up, I would quote a dining companion who noted "adventurous, limited menus require great execution - and they nailed it".
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Monday, January 7, 2008
Montreal 2007 - L'Epicier & Bistro Bienville
When one travels a great deal, particular by air, one must make peace with delays and cancellations, particularly in the volatile weather we have been experiencing globally during 2007. I see far too much of New York in the snow, sleet and hail; Chicago is dismal and bound to result in many a fine meal at the O'Hare McDonald's between October and March; and the lack of culinary prowess at Heathrow is a boon to no frequent flier. However, sometimes a Winter snowstorm can lead to a great adventure in eating, and while many cities are no fun in the snow, Montreal revels in it.
The largely French-speaking denizens of Quebec's cosmopolitan capital (Montreal holds a special place in my heart and stomach, even if the government chooses to sit further North) do not huddle up in their homes when ten or twenty inches of heavy, white crush pummels the city enough to cancel flights. Rather, they can be found dusting off their boots as they enter fine continental restaurants (many French-inspired) to warm themselves with favorite food and drink.
Upon such a snowy Thursday and Friday this ultimately lucky traveler found himself stuck with limited likely reprieve from Winter's wrath, and called up some old friends to show him what Montreal had to offer a hungry soul. The natives treated me to two very special meals in those two nights, one of which I probably, if appropriately plied with fine wine and food, could be convinced to add it to my Top Ten.
The experience of some of the world's finest haute cuisine at Chez L'Epicier (right) begins as one enters Chef Gobout's Old Montreal, well, Epicier (which, I am told by those who speak French, means grocery store, or, perhaps more appropriately, market). The space is a real market in front, dark wooden shelves lined with the gourmet, local foodstuffs. Passing by the delights of the restaurant's own Les Saveurs de L'Epicier, one enters a dining room that feels a bit like a modern country kitchen off the "side of the shop" with dark wooden chairs set into a hewn stone, steel and wood room. The food was excellent and made a great run at the experimental giants of the day, complete with kitsch (menu printed on paper bags) and unique cutlery and serving dishes. The Chef is also no prima donna; he was more than willing to accommodate some of the particular dietary requirements of our party. Expect to start with excellent (and local) foie gras paired with a trio of unique sauces (ranging from traditional french jellies to Indian-influenced tandoori jam) and saunter on to truly inventive takes on classic meats and fish. The cuisine focuses on local ingredients (similar to the market 's packaged goods line), so the menu changes frequently. Desserts were also a hit, and the wine list was substantial and reasonably priced for such an establishment.
After such a superb dining experience, I was not expecting much from my second night, where I trekked with another dining companion to Bistro Bienville in the somewhat more edgy Plateau Mont-Royal district. After our taxi clearly was lost (even though I was with a French speaker!), I used my keen sense of direction (and read a few street signs) to arrive just in time for what a friend who could not join us warned was a very "hot reservation" (and thanks to them for getting us the table). "Cuisine Conviviale" was proclaimed on the menus, and the intimate environment of this tiny space helped to reinforce that message, with a fully open kitchen crammed in with a handful of tables. I was disappointed to hear that this reservation was really "hot", and despite the weather we were only allocated 1.5 hours to enjoy our meal before we would need to leave. Despite my initial reservations upon having my time limit set for eating, which banished much of the excitement for the experience from me, I could not have been happier with this fine Bistro. The simple menu emphasizing traditional French dishes did not disappoint. Artfully executed versions of pot-a-feu and succulent beef stew couldn't have been more perfect for the state of mind and storm that I was in, and an extensive list of accessible wines by the glass helped soften my view of the place. When we had to depart (after a few nice desserts and a tasty local, organic cheese plate) I was very happy to have found such a unique spot. An excellent choice for very fine food done with elegant simplicity, and a place intimate enough to take a date so that you feel like a regular with the chef by your table, so long as you have a movie to see an hour and a half later.
Two nights stranded, two fantastic restaurants I would recommend many times over. I guess Winter travel ain't all bad.
The largely French-speaking denizens of Quebec's cosmopolitan capital (Montreal holds a special place in my heart and stomach, even if the government chooses to sit further North) do not huddle up in their homes when ten or twenty inches of heavy, white crush pummels the city enough to cancel flights. Rather, they can be found dusting off their boots as they enter fine continental restaurants (many French-inspired) to warm themselves with favorite food and drink.
Upon such a snowy Thursday and Friday this ultimately lucky traveler found himself stuck with limited likely reprieve from Winter's wrath, and called up some old friends to show him what Montreal had to offer a hungry soul. The natives treated me to two very special meals in those two nights, one of which I probably, if appropriately plied with fine wine and food, could be convinced to add it to my Top Ten.
The experience of some of the world's finest haute cuisine at Chez L'Epicier (right) begins as one enters Chef Gobout's Old Montreal, well, Epicier (which, I am told by those who speak French, means grocery store, or, perhaps more appropriately, market). The space is a real market in front, dark wooden shelves lined with the gourmet, local foodstuffs. Passing by the delights of the restaurant's own Les Saveurs de L'Epicier, one enters a dining room that feels a bit like a modern country kitchen off the "side of the shop" with dark wooden chairs set into a hewn stone, steel and wood room. The food was excellent and made a great run at the experimental giants of the day, complete with kitsch (menu printed on paper bags) and unique cutlery and serving dishes. The Chef is also no prima donna; he was more than willing to accommodate some of the particular dietary requirements of our party. Expect to start with excellent (and local) foie gras paired with a trio of unique sauces (ranging from traditional french jellies to Indian-influenced tandoori jam) and saunter on to truly inventive takes on classic meats and fish. The cuisine focuses on local ingredients (similar to the market 's packaged goods line), so the menu changes frequently. Desserts were also a hit, and the wine list was substantial and reasonably priced for such an establishment.
After such a superb dining experience, I was not expecting much from my second night, where I trekked with another dining companion to Bistro Bienville in the somewhat more edgy Plateau Mont-Royal district. After our taxi clearly was lost (even though I was with a French speaker!), I used my keen sense of direction (and read a few street signs) to arrive just in time for what a friend who could not join us warned was a very "hot reservation" (and thanks to them for getting us the table). "Cuisine Conviviale" was proclaimed on the menus, and the intimate environment of this tiny space helped to reinforce that message, with a fully open kitchen crammed in with a handful of tables. I was disappointed to hear that this reservation was really "hot", and despite the weather we were only allocated 1.5 hours to enjoy our meal before we would need to leave. Despite my initial reservations upon having my time limit set for eating, which banished much of the excitement for the experience from me, I could not have been happier with this fine Bistro. The simple menu emphasizing traditional French dishes did not disappoint. Artfully executed versions of pot-a-feu and succulent beef stew couldn't have been more perfect for the state of mind and storm that I was in, and an extensive list of accessible wines by the glass helped soften my view of the place. When we had to depart (after a few nice desserts and a tasty local, organic cheese plate) I was very happy to have found such a unique spot. An excellent choice for very fine food done with elegant simplicity, and a place intimate enough to take a date so that you feel like a regular with the chef by your table, so long as you have a movie to see an hour and a half later.
Two nights stranded, two fantastic restaurants I would recommend many times over. I guess Winter travel ain't all bad.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Chicago 2008 - Marigold
Marigold, an intimate nouveau Indian restaurant in the Uptown neighborhood (just north of Lawrence on Broadway, betwixt a few new trendy bars), mixes traditional cuisine and modern preparations. The food was solid, and all the appetizers were a hit with our group. Crispy lamb and potato samosas, lightly fried calamari and particularly the duck confit seasoned with traditional Indian spices started out an excellent meal. The entrees were served with an artistic pyramid of light basmati rice, and the naan and saag paneer were both well executed side dishes. The food was less spicy than one might expect, and the chicken dishes were more bland than a typical Indian preparation, but the ingredients were of the highest quality.
The atmosphere, while described by some reviewers as "romantic", also suited our large group (of 10). The interior is stylish and makes you feel like you are in a posh yet understated lounge with your party. The service was attentive but not pushy - we felt like we could have stayed all night, noshing on a fine selection of desserts (such as the "Kama Sutra" chocolate cake). Overall, an excellent addition to the Chicago restaurant scene and one which serves up authentic cuisine in a new American format.
The atmosphere, while described by some reviewers as "romantic", also suited our large group (of 10). The interior is stylish and makes you feel like you are in a posh yet understated lounge with your party. The service was attentive but not pushy - we felt like we could have stayed all night, noshing on a fine selection of desserts (such as the "Kama Sutra" chocolate cake). Overall, an excellent addition to the Chicago restaurant scene and one which serves up authentic cuisine in a new American format.
Friday, January 4, 2008
Chicago 2008 - Painted Lady
So, I haven't even fully gotten through my Tokyo reviews yet but I feel compelled to add some new experiences - this blog thing can be addictive, I guess. I will try to keep my "labels" organized so you can search by city easily (and figure out how to move some sort of sorting mechanism to the top of the page, but I don't have those skills yet, so you will have to head for the bottom of the articles for now to find like-cities).
Anyway, to get to the subject header, had a delightful dinner at the newly reinvented space which formerly housed the Bleeding Heart Bakery on Chicago just west of Damen. The Painted Lady is a fantastic little organic bistro brought to you by the owners of BHB. The food is fresh prepared, and is all organic. They also cater to the veggie and vegan crowd, and most of the menu is vegan-optional (eg, the delicious Chicago Cheese Steak can be prepared with lean, organic grass-fed beef or their own, house-made Seitan). Among what I tried, the hummus was tremendous, fresh and garlicky; the burger (topped with an egg in the non-vegan variety) was solid (didn't care for the black bean, eggless version as much); the Chicago Cheese Steak was a perfectly prepared mix on toasted panini; and both the veggie chili and the pizzas were delicious. The scene is funky kitsch, a favorite of edgy artist types. No reservations, but they do take out and have a wide variety of BHB pastries and breads at the counter (BHB has moved North to a larger space at Belmont & Damen). The small seating area was comfortable and not crowded when we arrived (no wait,
probably seats 15-20). Menu changes daily (and typically on the chalkboard, right), and while they were out of some things we wanted to try, it was only because everything is house-made and hand-crafted. The experience is also a real urban coffee-shop one, order at the counter (although they do accept credit cards, which I nervously put forth for payment as the place screams cash-only), food comes out as prepared. The owners (Michelle and Velentin Garcia) were both on-site making the magic happen, and came out to explain why one of our selections wasn't available - they are clearly passionate about the food and their business. Perfect for a weekend lunch or casual dinner.
Anyway, to get to the subject header, had a delightful dinner at the newly reinvented space which formerly housed the Bleeding Heart Bakery on Chicago just west of Damen. The Painted Lady is a fantastic little organic bistro brought to you by the owners of BHB. The food is fresh prepared, and is all organic. They also cater to the veggie and vegan crowd, and most of the menu is vegan-optional (eg, the delicious Chicago Cheese Steak can be prepared with lean, organic grass-fed beef or their own, house-made Seitan). Among what I tried, the hummus was tremendous, fresh and garlicky; the burger (topped with an egg in the non-vegan variety) was solid (didn't care for the black bean, eggless version as much); the Chicago Cheese Steak was a perfectly prepared mix on toasted panini; and both the veggie chili and the pizzas were delicious. The scene is funky kitsch, a favorite of edgy artist types. No reservations, but they do take out and have a wide variety of BHB pastries and breads at the counter (BHB has moved North to a larger space at Belmont & Damen). The small seating area was comfortable and not crowded when we arrived (no wait,
probably seats 15-20). Menu changes daily (and typically on the chalkboard, right), and while they were out of some things we wanted to try, it was only because everything is house-made and hand-crafted. The experience is also a real urban coffee-shop one, order at the counter (although they do accept credit cards, which I nervously put forth for payment as the place screams cash-only), food comes out as prepared. The owners (Michelle and Velentin Garcia) were both on-site making the magic happen, and came out to explain why one of our selections wasn't available - they are clearly passionate about the food and their business. Perfect for a weekend lunch or casual dinner.Tuesday, January 1, 2008
Tokyo 2007 - Part 4: Things to See
In addition to some amazing gastronomical highlights, Tokyo has a huge number of non-eating related attractions. As the guide books tell you, there are great things to see related to the history and culture of Japan (Emperor's Palace, Pagoda Gardens); the current cutting-edge of the art world (numerous modern art museums and galleries in Ginza-ku); a few unique tributes to Japanese industry (the Sony building, the Fuji museum); and even a trusty US export (Disney Tokyo). While all of these things are within the acceptable norms of tourist attractions, none really blew me away. There was one "in the guidebooks" experience that I must wholeheartedly recommend: The Tsukji Fish Market.
The Tsukji Fish Market is the pre-eminent fish market in the world largely due to the huge demand in Japan, and Tokyo specifically, for the highest quality seafood. The Fish Market itself starts quite early (perhaps 4.30am). I headed over after finishing a few last cocktails and ended up arriving at 5.30am. It is critically important that if you go by cab rather than the convenient subway station you pronounce the name correctly (ski-gee) or you may end up several hunderd dollars poorer on your way back from a suburb of Tokyo that sounds like how I would pronounce Tsukji. A quick aside on the subways - they are as efficient and as numerous as you might imagine; use them. The market itself is a sprawling network of aisles where people peddle all sorts of fish and cooking supplies (the former right off the boats). You can also walk though all of the fish unloading, prep and transport areas (be careful not to get hit by one of the hundreds of lift trucks zooming to and fro loaded with fish at a frenetic pace). Other than the sheer scale and variety of things to see, the most interesting part of the experience is the unique and personal nature of it - in the US, tourists / non-workers would never be allowed to enter most of the places I crept around in as sun broke into the morning sky. Also, after an hour or so of wandering through the aisle in wonderment, you can retire for some of the freshest sushi on the planet in one of the many small "diners" that lace the fish market. A real Tokyo experience.
I will end the report on Japan with a few bars and clubs that I enjoyed; importantly, one should note that similar to consumer culture, the "scene" in Tokyo appears to change rapidly, and thus it is difficult to know whether or not any of these locations will be in existence, much less "hot" when you travel there. I visited countless small bars and clubs across the various districts (Shibuya, Roppongi, Ginza) with mixed results. All tend to be on the expensive side versus a New York or London. The highlights in terms of bars were A971 in Roppongi by the Tokyo Modern; The New York Bar in the Park Hyatt; and The Last Quarter in Hiroo. The Last Quarter was a particularly laid back and cool experience. Proprietor Sayaka Adachi pours the finest Western and Japanese scotch, whiskey and bourbon in specially selected glasses in an intimate second floor bar a few blocks from the Hiroo station. A must-try for lovers of darker liquors. In terms of clubs, most turned out to be disappointments, but Atom in Shibuya-ku was a highlight, including a surprise appearance by Doberman Inc, a pretty talented Japanese hip-hop crew.
The Tsukji Fish Market is the pre-eminent fish market in the world largely due to the huge demand in Japan, and Tokyo specifically, for the highest quality seafood. The Fish Market itself starts quite early (perhaps 4.30am). I headed over after finishing a few last cocktails and ended up arriving at 5.30am. It is critically important that if you go by cab rather than the convenient subway station you pronounce the name correctly (ski-gee) or you may end up several hunderd dollars poorer on your way back from a suburb of Tokyo that sounds like how I would pronounce Tsukji. A quick aside on the subways - they are as efficient and as numerous as you might imagine; use them. The market itself is a sprawling network of aisles where people peddle all sorts of fish and cooking supplies (the former right off the boats). You can also walk though all of the fish unloading, prep and transport areas (be careful not to get hit by one of the hundreds of lift trucks zooming to and fro loaded with fish at a frenetic pace). Other than the sheer scale and variety of things to see, the most interesting part of the experience is the unique and personal nature of it - in the US, tourists / non-workers would never be allowed to enter most of the places I crept around in as sun broke into the morning sky. Also, after an hour or so of wandering through the aisle in wonderment, you can retire for some of the freshest sushi on the planet in one of the many small "diners" that lace the fish market. A real Tokyo experience.
I will end the report on Japan with a few bars and clubs that I enjoyed; importantly, one should note that similar to consumer culture, the "scene" in Tokyo appears to change rapidly, and thus it is difficult to know whether or not any of these locations will be in existence, much less "hot" when you travel there. I visited countless small bars and clubs across the various districts (Shibuya, Roppongi, Ginza) with mixed results. All tend to be on the expensive side versus a New York or London. The highlights in terms of bars were A971 in Roppongi by the Tokyo Modern; The New York Bar in the Park Hyatt; and The Last Quarter in Hiroo. The Last Quarter was a particularly laid back and cool experience. Proprietor Sayaka Adachi pours the finest Western and Japanese scotch, whiskey and bourbon in specially selected glasses in an intimate second floor bar a few blocks from the Hiroo station. A must-try for lovers of darker liquors. In terms of clubs, most turned out to be disappointments, but Atom in Shibuya-ku was a highlight, including a surprise appearance by Doberman Inc, a pretty talented Japanese hip-hop crew.
Tokyo 2007 - Part 3: Things to Eat
Tokyo Restaurant Review
The following sampling of restaurants are in alphabetical order, and range from the very casual to the very fancy.
Cicada (www.cicada.co.jp) - A trendy new spot in Minato-ku offers a great selection of new Spanish cuisine. An excellent wine list (the best in my experience in the city) and excellent Spanish classics made with traditional Japanese ingredients. The set menu Christmas Dinner featured a wide range of dishes, which really highlighted the capabilities of the chef.
Hamadaya (www.hamadaya-midtown.com) - Hamadaya is a fine-dining restaurant in the traditional Japanese Kaseki style. Formally-dressed waitresses present a set menu in a formal dining room. Excellent execution of a great menu. For a very traditional dining experience, this spot next to the new Tokyo Midtown building is a key destination.
Ichiran (www.ichiran.co.jp) - Ichiran is a chain of 22 "noodle shops" all over the city; great for late-night eats. In a odd ritual, you purchase a ticket from a vending machine outside, wait for a seat at the bar to free up, and then present your ticket for a delicious pork or other noodle-based dish.
Kaikaya (www.kaikaya.com) - Located in Shibuya-ku, Kaikaya is a great dinner spot, that has a "local" feel despite being frequented by Gaijin as well as local. The inventive cuisine is mostly seafood, and includes such dishes as Tuna Spare Ribs (grilled tuna on the bone) and amazing Sashimi of all types with unique, western-style spices. The atmosphere is very casual and jovial, and you immediately feel like "one of the crowd". Order a bottle of the "house sake" and sit at the bar; try a range of dishes - the grilled octopus is amazing. English menus are available.
New York Grille (www.parkhyatttokyo.com) - The setting for the bar scenes from "Lost in Translation", the New York Grille boasts a spectacular view of the city. Fifty-two floors above Shibuya-ku, this restaurant and bar scene is where the power players of Tokyo wine and dine. A traditional "New York" menu, with the very fine addition of Japanese Kobe beef, is served in a large, crowded venue. While the service was perfunctory at best, the food was excellent and the view is not to be missed.
Phonam (phonam.jp) - For a good, quick meal of spicy noodles in Roppongi-ku, try this Vietnamese option. Fast food of very high quality.
RyuGin (www.nihonryori-ryugin.com) - Life-altering would be a good description for chef Yamamoto's bleeding-edge cuisine. Reminscent of Alinea, Moto and WD-50 in the US, and, of course, the grandfather of the chemist/chef hybrid, El Bulli, this parade of delicacies earns a spot on my "top 10" list of global restaurants. Chef Yamamoto prepares set menus that will surprise the most experienced palate. Starting with a Fugu (blowfish) soup and ending with a sub-zero frozen carmel apple, the menu showcases all that is amazing in modern cuisine. Japanese staples married with inventive preparation and the deft showmanship of customize plates and utensils (similar to Chef Cantu's Moto experience) allows one to truly see and taste the traditional Japanese ingredients and dishes in a way which will elicit wonder. RyuGin also has a remarkable set of servers, and its manager, Takeo Arimasa, carefully explains the dishes in both Japanese and English to ensure the foreigners who have come to see Chef's masterpieces get the full experience. Book ahead - as of this writing a six month wait list has graced the door of RyuGin in the wake of being highlighted in the Michelin guide for 2007.
Sushi Ko (no website) - Run, don't walk, to the best Sushi experience you will ever have. A set menu prepared excellently in this 12-seat restaurant in a back alley in Ginza-ku. Exceedingly difficult to find, but well worth the somewhat confusing journey. Course after course (about 20) of the most exotic and delectable sushi dishes is capped off by a fatty tuna not found outside of Tokyo, served both raw and grilled. Rarely does a restaurant break into my "top 10", much less two in one week, but Sushi Ko earns top honors for the best sushi I have ever tasted, or can even imagine.
Zakuro (no website) - Similar to many fine dining establishments in Tokyo, Zakuro has expanded to a number of different locations (currently numbering 6). I have eaten at Zakuro twice; once on a prior business trip at the Akasaka location and during this journey at the Ginza location. The private room option, giving you the full traditional Shabu-Shabu experience. The charcoal-burning "chimney" boils a broth that is then used to cook delicious, thin-sliced Kobe beef, vegetables mixed in with homemade sauces. A real unique experience that is frequented by business types from Tokyo and abroad. Make sure you know which location you have reserved at; the numbers listed often do not match the locations' address.
The following sampling of restaurants are in alphabetical order, and range from the very casual to the very fancy.
Cicada (www.cicada.co.jp) - A trendy new spot in Minato-ku offers a great selection of new Spanish cuisine. An excellent wine list (the best in my experience in the city) and excellent Spanish classics made with traditional Japanese ingredients. The set menu Christmas Dinner featured a wide range of dishes, which really highlighted the capabilities of the chef.
Hamadaya (www.hamadaya-midtown.com) - Hamadaya is a fine-dining restaurant in the traditional Japanese Kaseki style. Formally-dressed waitresses present a set menu in a formal dining room. Excellent execution of a great menu. For a very traditional dining experience, this spot next to the new Tokyo Midtown building is a key destination.
Ichiran (www.ichiran.co.jp) - Ichiran is a chain of 22 "noodle shops" all over the city; great for late-night eats. In a odd ritual, you purchase a ticket from a vending machine outside, wait for a seat at the bar to free up, and then present your ticket for a delicious pork or other noodle-based dish.
Kaikaya (www.kaikaya.com) - Located in Shibuya-ku, Kaikaya is a great dinner spot, that has a "local" feel despite being frequented by Gaijin as well as local. The inventive cuisine is mostly seafood, and includes such dishes as Tuna Spare Ribs (grilled tuna on the bone) and amazing Sashimi of all types with unique, western-style spices. The atmosphere is very casual and jovial, and you immediately feel like "one of the crowd". Order a bottle of the "house sake" and sit at the bar; try a range of dishes - the grilled octopus is amazing. English menus are available.
New York Grille (www.parkhyatttokyo.com) - The setting for the bar scenes from "Lost in Translation", the New York Grille boasts a spectacular view of the city. Fifty-two floors above Shibuya-ku, this restaurant and bar scene is where the power players of Tokyo wine and dine. A traditional "New York" menu, with the very fine addition of Japanese Kobe beef, is served in a large, crowded venue. While the service was perfunctory at best, the food was excellent and the view is not to be missed.
Phonam (phonam.jp) - For a good, quick meal of spicy noodles in Roppongi-ku, try this Vietnamese option. Fast food of very high quality.
RyuGin (www.nihonryori-ryugin.com) - Life-altering would be a good description for chef Yamamoto's bleeding-edge cuisine. Reminscent of Alinea, Moto and WD-50 in the US, and, of course, the grandfather of the chemist/chef hybrid, El Bulli, this parade of delicacies earns a spot on my "top 10" list of global restaurants. Chef Yamamoto prepares set menus that will surprise the most experienced palate. Starting with a Fugu (blowfish) soup and ending with a sub-zero frozen carmel apple, the menu showcases all that is amazing in modern cuisine. Japanese staples married with inventive preparation and the deft showmanship of customize plates and utensils (similar to Chef Cantu's Moto experience) allows one to truly see and taste the traditional Japanese ingredients and dishes in a way which will elicit wonder. RyuGin also has a remarkable set of servers, and its manager, Takeo Arimasa, carefully explains the dishes in both Japanese and English to ensure the foreigners who have come to see Chef's masterpieces get the full experience. Book ahead - as of this writing a six month wait list has graced the door of RyuGin in the wake of being highlighted in the Michelin guide for 2007.
Sushi Ko (no website) - Run, don't walk, to the best Sushi experience you will ever have. A set menu prepared excellently in this 12-seat restaurant in a back alley in Ginza-ku. Exceedingly difficult to find, but well worth the somewhat confusing journey. Course after course (about 20) of the most exotic and delectable sushi dishes is capped off by a fatty tuna not found outside of Tokyo, served both raw and grilled. Rarely does a restaurant break into my "top 10", much less two in one week, but Sushi Ko earns top honors for the best sushi I have ever tasted, or can even imagine.
Zakuro (no website) - Similar to many fine dining establishments in Tokyo, Zakuro has expanded to a number of different locations (currently numbering 6). I have eaten at Zakuro twice; once on a prior business trip at the Akasaka location and during this journey at the Ginza location. The private room option, giving you the full traditional Shabu-Shabu experience. The charcoal-burning "chimney" boils a broth that is then used to cook delicious, thin-sliced Kobe beef, vegetables mixed in with homemade sauces. A real unique experience that is frequented by business types from Tokyo and abroad. Make sure you know which location you have reserved at; the numbers listed often do not match the locations' address.
Tokyo 2007 - Part 2: Gastronomy
Tokyo is truly a city for lovers of food, and the dining experience. No other city boasts more restaurants, the sheer volume of dining opportunities is staggering. The 2007 Michelin Guide awarded Tokyo more stars than any other city, even its beloved Paris.
The interesting thing about the number of stars was not only the sheer number, but the variety of restaurants starred - the guide best known for its secret, professional reviewers had given its coveted stars to restaurants cooking up not only various types of Japanese food, but also Italian, and even French cuisine.
The guide's assessment of Japan was similar to mine; the cuisine at a variety of Tokyo restaurants was uniformly excellent. The Japanese chefs have taken concepts from their own cuisine as well as the Western culinary traditions and perfected them. At any measure of good restaurant, the food was executed at the highest level of the art; at two restaurants, Ryugin and Sushi Ko, the experience was life-altering (you will see these two restaurants have made the "top ten" list I maintain on this site).
Too, there were more informal dining experiences that were absolutely amazing. Small, intimate dining rooms with open kitchens such as Kaikaya serving up fresh grilled and sushi fused with Western spices and prepared in entirely unique ways.
The next post will contain my recommendations for Tokyo dining; enjoy!
The interesting thing about the number of stars was not only the sheer number, but the variety of restaurants starred - the guide best known for its secret, professional reviewers had given its coveted stars to restaurants cooking up not only various types of Japanese food, but also Italian, and even French cuisine.
The guide's assessment of Japan was similar to mine; the cuisine at a variety of Tokyo restaurants was uniformly excellent. The Japanese chefs have taken concepts from their own cuisine as well as the Western culinary traditions and perfected them. At any measure of good restaurant, the food was executed at the highest level of the art; at two restaurants, Ryugin and Sushi Ko, the experience was life-altering (you will see these two restaurants have made the "top ten" list I maintain on this site).
Too, there were more informal dining experiences that were absolutely amazing. Small, intimate dining rooms with open kitchens such as Kaikaya serving up fresh grilled and sushi fused with Western spices and prepared in entirely unique ways.
The next post will contain my recommendations for Tokyo dining; enjoy!
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