Chicago 2008 - Big Jones

Service is critically important as I evaluate a dining experience, especially for a new restaurant. Big Jones started my Sunday brunch off right, seating me immediately (even though I was the first of my party) and tempting me with a bowl of fresh beignets and one of the largest cups of coffee I have ever seen.

The eclectic 'Coastal Southern Brunch' at the Andersonville upstart is inventive and true to one of Big Jones guiding principals - organic, local veggies, produce and dairy. Don't let me fool you into thinking this is a healthy spot - its organic, but savory and sweet and all things in between.

A wide array of unique selections, from french toast made with classic southern pan bread to a number of egg-based (Kalona Organics from Iowa) benedict-style dishes with exotic ingredients such as lump crab, creole ratatouille, carolina pulled pork and house-made Tasso (smoky-flavored Southern ham), made it a tough decision for this first-time diner. The continuing friendly service helped me narrow down my selection to Eggs Romero (Poached Eggs, Crisp Potato Cakes, Pulled Pork and a tangy sauxe) or Eggs Benedict (Niman Ranch Ham and Poached Eggs served on a fresh popover with Hollandaise). Your trusty foodlover went for the more intriguing Romero, and was excellent. Strong flavors in the spicy Carolina-style sauce, including nutmeg, may turn off more sensitive palettes, but the pulled pork was well-cooked and the eggs paired well with the crispy potato cake. Skip the Lunn toast; it is a bit dry, but otherwise no complaints about the cuisine.

Tea lovers will enjoy the large selection of specialty organic teas, evoking pleasurable feelings by name alone; 'Inner Blossom Jasmine' or 'Osmanthus Rooibos' or 'Dragonwell Green'. The traditional Cafe au Lait is also a house speciality.

Definitely worth the haul north for a casual brunch.