Houston 2009: Tony's

I implore my readers to forgive me for forgoing the updates from recent jaunts to New York and Montreal to introduce you to an amazing location for fine dining in Houston, Texas.

Rarely considered a bastion of fine dining, Houston rises early to summer, and at the end of my first day in 90-degree heat in 2009, I was treated to the best this West Texas city has to offer. I felt it incumbent upon me to make you aware post-haste of the potential captured in this city's long-standing fine dining establishment, Tony's.

While I would have chosen a bit more subtle and nuanced decor, as I entered Tony's traditional "old school" Italian spot I realized I was in for a treat. For starters, the surreal bar area sported no less than three Secret Service agents dipping fresh strawberries in powdered sugar, as if at the end of a long journey of dining. I later discovered they were there to protect the evening of the current and past governors of Texas (both were present at the table next to us). Such Southern, nay, Texan (there is a substantial difference) royalty would only dine in the "best of the best", I figured.

As the sommelier tantalized us with his suggestions, we commiserated over some of the wines not available - sold out - as it would seem they had given up my first few choices of great juices to Texas' finest diners earlier in the year. Despite this inital setback, the talented wine steward made alternative suggestions for some amazing wines, none of which I had ever sampled before. Our party of four indulged in fine vintages from France and Napa: a Chateau Dauzac ('99 Margaux, not the best year, but softened to near perfection at its tenth anniversary); Ghost Block ('06 Napa Cab) with a unique cinnamon taste; and Hollywood & Vine, 2480 ('06 Napa Cab) with a heartier, tannic blend that stood perfectly with our main courses.

Before we ordered, the fine Texan gentleman I had the pleasure of dining with arranged for Tony himself to visit our table. Tony is a consummate restaurateur, having "kept his hands dirty" in the kitchen over a 45-year career to ensure that the menu and ingredients were true to his Italian heritage - farm ripened produce, house-made pastas, and nouveau cuisine entrees that married the "old world" with inventive new preparations and sauces.

With Tony's sage recommendations at hand, we attacked the menus our attentive servers appeared with. Favorites rarely seen in Texas (or outside of Italy), such as zucchini blossoms, were scattered amongst more traditional comfort foods from Texas - steaks and chops, fresh fish from the gulf, and lightly fried appetizers.

After we ordered, one of Tony's suggestions immediately came as an amuse bouche - a perfectly prepared morsel of foie gras that was simmered in a reduction evoking sharp cherry and salt flavors, tantalizing our taste buds for what was to come.

All of our party opted to start with the unique (for America) zucchini blossom stuffed with lobster and crab meat, lightly fried and delicate in its preparation. It was "Texas sized" compared to my expectation, but excellent.

As we struggled to decide between the fresh pastas and the heartier dishes for our mains, our waiter suggested an intermezzo course that sampled the house-made pastas and sauces, which we graciously accepted. Tony would choose a selection for us to share.

When the pastas arrived, we were delighted with a plate of three tastes: ravioli "amulote" with spinach & cream; Triangoli ravioli stuffed with veal in a light but rich sauce; and Papardelle perfectly constructed and slathered in Tony's own bolognese sauce (a bit salty but very tasty).

For my entree, I selected the bone-in rib eye (having been "dared" by the waiter that it was the "best steak in Texas"). This truly was a memorable steak: flavorful, perfectly cooked, and served with flash fried green beans and duck-fat roasted new potatoes.

Veritably stuffed from our multi-course fine dining experience, we passed on dessert but were treated to the signature strawberry tree (the house specialty even the Secret Service indulged in); fresh strawberries and meringues with a powdered sugar dipping bowl.

The only real negatives at Tony's are aesthetic - the space has a campy feel with a 1980's gauche decor; large monuments to bad sculpture and a too-loud piano man mar the otherwise amazing experience. However, with good company and excellent service, it is easy to look past the decor and acoustics at this downtown "see and be seen eatery".

All in all, an amazing dining experience and from here on out, my top recommendation for anyone heading south to Texas.