I have been invited many fine times to the proper type of British club in the city, but on this mild mid-Winter trip to the UK, I was finally able to slouch on one of the comfortable couches at George (no link to ensure exclusivity?) and dine on some fine morsels with friends in the intimacy of a private club, rather than a restaurant, in central London.
According to members, THE George is widely known as an exclusive spot in a nice part of town (I agree) and the owner does traffic in the right circles (owner also has the spots Annabels, Harry's and Mark's). . . the only offensive thing about the place is that it is described as a "Nantucket-Style Brasserie". I mean, what does that even signify? Does anyone from the US, particularly from Nantucket, know what they are getting at?
They certainly don't, so I will help them:
Upon entering The George, one feels very comfortably at home; not the snobbish "city club" feel you have in NYC or Chicago, but more like the "trendy group of friendly folks" vibe you get at Casa Tua in Miami (with shorter men and women). . . . The high-end bar food is delicious; lightly friend whitefish, mini-burgers, frites and tartare all well-executed, and, in keeping with its private club nature, the service is discreet, friendly and "punctual" (in that my glass was never dry).
If the proprietor Mark forgave my review of above, I would probably join this fine establishment to maintain an uncompromising spot to host friends and clients in the London scene; however, I don't know if I could make the mark of this exclusive enclave, and so remain anonymous to preserve my blog's integrity :)
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Houston 2008 - REEF
As I gingerly crept through one of Houston's more "up and coming" neighborhoods trying to locate the 2600 block of an obscure street, I noted the parallels with development in other cities; older neighborhood turned business district turned warehouse-heavy now sprinkled with a handful of luminaries of culture - trendy cuisine and art galleries. However, the differences were also striking ~ Houston's vast sprawl puts this neighborhood nearly 30 minutes from my downtown hotel in very light traffic on a warm but rainy winters eve. . .
Arriving after a few bad one-way street turns at the funky REEF, I was pleased to find both attentive service and an urban edge of decor. The restaurant caters to a later-evening set in Houston, both the corporate types and the trendy illuminati who frequent the newest places in any environ.
Prompt service of all dishes, and impeccable knowledge of the menu and solid seafood make this a now-favorite of mine in Texas' third city of dining (Dallas outshines with a number of noteworthy spots, and the Austin underground is always a place to find a special spot). Perfectly sauteed scallops, firm and well-garnished Salmon, delicate yet savoy shrimp rolls, and an array of raw bar delights make REEF the right place for fresh fish in Houston's new district.
Arriving after a few bad one-way street turns at the funky REEF, I was pleased to find both attentive service and an urban edge of decor. The restaurant caters to a later-evening set in Houston, both the corporate types and the trendy illuminati who frequent the newest places in any environ.
Prompt service of all dishes, and impeccable knowledge of the menu and solid seafood make this a now-favorite of mine in Texas' third city of dining (Dallas outshines with a number of noteworthy spots, and the Austin underground is always a place to find a special spot). Perfectly sauteed scallops, firm and well-garnished Salmon, delicate yet savoy shrimp rolls, and an array of raw bar delights make REEF the right place for fresh fish in Houston's new district.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Chicago 2008 - we
I had always thought the subdued bistro that sits in the W Hotel City Center was a French-sounding, American-spelling play on "yes". However, to my dismay, I learned when preparing to post this entry that the restaurant believes its style to be a homage to a Tuscan-inspired steakhouse "ristorante" (hence the full name ristorante we). Luckily, my disappointment in having incorrectly explained the concept innumerable times to friends does not carry over to my views of the fine "bistro".
When one enters the subtle, rich decor at we and sinks into one of the comfortable banquettes or lounge chairs which ring the oval tables, you feel both ready to relax and enjoy a fine meal and wine. we is a particularly great find when you are wandering around the somewhat-desolate-on-the-weekends Loop district on a cold, wintry afternoon.
The only complaint I have about the comforting decor is that it is somewhat interrupted by a bit too much power in the over table lights. Forgiving this, however, is quite easy when the service staff approaches with the menus.
The staff is incredibly accomodating, and allowed our group to order off both the breakfast and lunch menus. Even just stopping in for food, you feel like a hotel guest. The food, as usual, did not disappoint; innovative and perfectly executed. Beautifully prepared and presented pesto eggs dotted with small boules of hand-crafted mozzarella and a pancetta "moon"; light, thin blueberry pancakes served with crispy bacon; a think and juicey 'steakburger' with scrumptious truffled fries glistening with melted parmesan.
A great standby for the denizens of downtown on the weekend, before a show, or for a fancy "bistro" (no, I won't stop calling it a bistro) lunch during the business week. . .
When one enters the subtle, rich decor at we and sinks into one of the comfortable banquettes or lounge chairs which ring the oval tables, you feel both ready to relax and enjoy a fine meal and wine. we is a particularly great find when you are wandering around the somewhat-desolate-on-the-weekends Loop district on a cold, wintry afternoon.
The only complaint I have about the comforting decor is that it is somewhat interrupted by a bit too much power in the over table lights. Forgiving this, however, is quite easy when the service staff approaches with the menus.The staff is incredibly accomodating, and allowed our group to order off both the breakfast and lunch menus. Even just stopping in for food, you feel like a hotel guest. The food, as usual, did not disappoint; innovative and perfectly executed. Beautifully prepared and presented pesto eggs dotted with small boules of hand-crafted mozzarella and a pancetta "moon"; light, thin blueberry pancakes served with crispy bacon; a think and juicey 'steakburger' with scrumptious truffled fries glistening with melted parmesan.
A great standby for the denizens of downtown on the weekend, before a show, or for a fancy "bistro" (no, I won't stop calling it a bistro) lunch during the business week. . .
Chicago 2008 - Bin 36
So, it feels like a week of "oldies but goodies" in Chicago. Similar to my last post on Blackbird, I had not been to Bin 36 for dinner for several years. When the wine tasting plus dinner-themed spot opened next to the House of Blues back in the early 2000s, the mission was consistent with the current mantra of de-mystifying wines and making a variety of high-quality grape drinks available to the non-oenophile public.
Bin 36 is noteworthy for a number of facets; it has a sleek design and double high space that feels "new" even years after opening, it has an excellent and knowledgeable staff which stays true to its mission of providing wine novices with a broad selection of varietals from around the world by the glass.
Tonight, I arrived VERY fashionably late (after appetizers, apologies to SM, AK and CM) and had a solid flight of "global reds" (a nebbiolo, a bordeaux blend, a grenache and a syrah) with pork and potatoes. For dessert, we shared a range of classics; creme brulee, chocolate cake, rice pudding and a cheese plate; each paired by our server with an appropriate and unique after dinner drink or wine.
The food was disappointing, and not great. I remembered why I didn't come back more frequently ~ while the wine concept is fun and the service exemplary, the food is just fine. For those who want a neat experience, good to try it out, but those with higher gastronomical goals trend toward other Chicago chefs.
Bin 36 is noteworthy for a number of facets; it has a sleek design and double high space that feels "new" even years after opening, it has an excellent and knowledgeable staff which stays true to its mission of providing wine novices with a broad selection of varietals from around the world by the glass.
Tonight, I arrived VERY fashionably late (after appetizers, apologies to SM, AK and CM) and had a solid flight of "global reds" (a nebbiolo, a bordeaux blend, a grenache and a syrah) with pork and potatoes. For dessert, we shared a range of classics; creme brulee, chocolate cake, rice pudding and a cheese plate; each paired by our server with an appropriate and unique after dinner drink or wine.
The food was disappointing, and not great. I remembered why I didn't come back more frequently ~ while the wine concept is fun and the service exemplary, the food is just fine. For those who want a neat experience, good to try it out, but those with higher gastronomical goals trend toward other Chicago chefs.
Thursday, January 17, 2008
Chicago 2008 - Blackbird
It has been many years since I have frequented the hip Near West Blackbird, with sleek interior and new American cuisine. Frankly, I have been surprised by its longevity, as many similar restaurants in this area and genre have come and gone (Grace, D. Kelly, Mar y Sol, etc). However, while all of these restaurants had inventive cuisine and good execution, none has had what Blackbird has achieved on the service and business front of the house.
Blackbird remains a "top" spot in Chicago restaurant because its cuisine stays contemporary, whilst its dedication to service and the business of being a restaurant remain stable. Over the past decade, I have visited Blackbird many times, as both a dinner guest and for more corporate functions in its edgy and convenient private upstairs.
I hosted a dinner tonight in the private room, and arrived nearly 45 minutes early, surprised (pleasantly) to find a specially made sign pointing me to a separate entrance for my private party upstairs. Rather than the typical "your event starts in 45 minutes", I was greeted with excitement by the staff, and offered a cocktail. This high level of service continued through the event. Numerous guests arrived late, but accommodations were made seamlessly. Chairs and tables added without utterance; truly a professional place.
The food did not disappoint; celery root soup with grapefruit and pecan garnish, a traditional French salad course with ouef & lardons; both the flat iron steak and monkfish were excellent entrees. The sides with the entrees could use some work - for example, the mushrooms and fruits paired with the monkfish were too sweet to command a complete flavor for the dish. However, the dessert course was tremendous; a miniature fried loaf of bread pudding was paired with a sweet yogurt-flavored ice cream dollop - comprehensive and well thought out.
In all, it is clear why this almost-West Loop icon remains on the top of the heap after a decade; a reminder that one should often revisit favorites that have long-survived the "new on the scene" rush.
Blackbird remains a "top" spot in Chicago restaurant because its cuisine stays contemporary, whilst its dedication to service and the business of being a restaurant remain stable. Over the past decade, I have visited Blackbird many times, as both a dinner guest and for more corporate functions in its edgy and convenient private upstairs.
I hosted a dinner tonight in the private room, and arrived nearly 45 minutes early, surprised (pleasantly) to find a specially made sign pointing me to a separate entrance for my private party upstairs. Rather than the typical "your event starts in 45 minutes", I was greeted with excitement by the staff, and offered a cocktail. This high level of service continued through the event. Numerous guests arrived late, but accommodations were made seamlessly. Chairs and tables added without utterance; truly a professional place.
The food did not disappoint; celery root soup with grapefruit and pecan garnish, a traditional French salad course with ouef & lardons; both the flat iron steak and monkfish were excellent entrees. The sides with the entrees could use some work - for example, the mushrooms and fruits paired with the monkfish were too sweet to command a complete flavor for the dish. However, the dessert course was tremendous; a miniature fried loaf of bread pudding was paired with a sweet yogurt-flavored ice cream dollop - comprehensive and well thought out.
In all, it is clear why this almost-West Loop icon remains on the top of the heap after a decade; a reminder that one should often revisit favorites that have long-survived the "new on the scene" rush.
Thursday, January 10, 2008
Chicago 2008 - Sepia
As I climbed into a cab to meet a group at the new hot restaurant, I thought to myself, where is 123 North Jefferson Street? I don't remember ever going to anything on Jefferson, much less a restaurant. And don't all of the president streets run East / West?
Well, my first trip to Jefferson Street was a memorable one; 123 North is tucked into a largely business district just west of the Loop. When I pulled up to the new "hot spot" Sepia on a rainy but warm (for Chicago) Winter's eve, I was greeted by a comfortable, subdued interior of a former early 1900s print shop with sepia-tones (Sepia, get it?) and pictures of Chicago history. The light fixtures cut against the interior to some extent; kitschy chandeliers surrounded by a translucent mirrored oval adds some edge to the look.
Sepia sports some of the best service staff in the city; immediately upon being seated, we were presented with the extensive wine and drink list. In addition to some excellent cocktails (try the Sepia Mule), the wine list was filled with little known, limited production organic wines.
The menu is also focused on local, organic-farmed ingredients. The selection of flatbreads are seasonal and a great way to start as you mull the broader menu. For appetizers, the tartare (again, organic) is fabulous, as are the hand-made pasta with rock shrimp. The grilled octopus is flavorful and perfectly cooked. For entrees, our group had an excellent Kona Kampachi (the fish of the moment), a well prepared Elk steak (very tasty and not gamey at all) and Guinea Hen.
Throughout the meal, the service continued to be exemplary. Desserts were solid, and consistent with the themes of the organic, local ingredients. Definitely worth figuring out where North Jefferson is . . .
Well, my first trip to Jefferson Street was a memorable one; 123 North is tucked into a largely business district just west of the Loop. When I pulled up to the new "hot spot" Sepia on a rainy but warm (for Chicago) Winter's eve, I was greeted by a comfortable, subdued interior of a former early 1900s print shop with sepia-tones (Sepia, get it?) and pictures of Chicago history. The light fixtures cut against the interior to some extent; kitschy chandeliers surrounded by a translucent mirrored oval adds some edge to the look.
Sepia sports some of the best service staff in the city; immediately upon being seated, we were presented with the extensive wine and drink list. In addition to some excellent cocktails (try the Sepia Mule), the wine list was filled with little known, limited production organic wines.
The menu is also focused on local, organic-farmed ingredients. The selection of flatbreads are seasonal and a great way to start as you mull the broader menu. For appetizers, the tartare (again, organic) is fabulous, as are the hand-made pasta with rock shrimp. The grilled octopus is flavorful and perfectly cooked. For entrees, our group had an excellent Kona Kampachi (the fish of the moment), a well prepared Elk steak (very tasty and not gamey at all) and Guinea Hen.
Throughout the meal, the service continued to be exemplary. Desserts were solid, and consistent with the themes of the organic, local ingredients. Definitely worth figuring out where North Jefferson is . . .
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
New York 2008 - Pinkberry
Following a nice, earthy dinner on a global-warming influenced 60-degree January evening in NYC, a quest was laid before me without my knowing.
"Have you ever had Pinkberry?"
I didn't, a bit ashamedly being a lover of food, even know what a Pinkberry was; I was soon to learn it wasn't a thing but a place - a new, exciting answer to the ubiquitous Tasty D-Lites that drape the NYC dessert scene.
After some considerable time trying to locate one in the area we were in (two calls and many blackberry searches led us disappointingly to several "Swirling Soon" Pinkberries), we happened upon a popular location in Koreatown , with a 30 minute wait to get inside.
The inside was also packed along small tables next to the line with a young, eclectic crowd spooning delicious looking mixtures in large groups. The hip interior in light wood, whitewash and funky lanterns lead us to a cash register, where we under significant time pressure (for my novice self) to order as the line continued to pile up behind us and around the block.
Pinkberry offers two flavors, Original and Green Tea. The Green Tea is not the light, scented green tea sweetness that one often finds in a green tea-based dessert, but a heavy, smack you in the throat deep steeped (not even sweet) green tea flavored yogurt. The Original is a sweet version of frozen plain yogurt; a bit tart but delectable, with a lightness not found in the oversweetened fro-yo parlors one typically finds across the country. For toppings, a range of "trendy" fruits (think pomegranate seeds, blueberries and kiwi) are mixed with a few staple toppings (chocolate chips and shaved coconut) as well as some childhood delights (Cap'n Crunch, Fruity Pebbles).
Had I to do it over again (which I am sure I will) I will be more thoughtful about my choice of toppings (3 standard with a normal size), as blueberry and Cap'n Crunch struck me later as a bit peculiar, but definitely delicious. So, line up for your shot at the newest dessert place in NYC, and look out for Swirling Soon in your neighborhood.
"Have you ever had Pinkberry?"
I didn't, a bit ashamedly being a lover of food, even know what a Pinkberry was; I was soon to learn it wasn't a thing but a place - a new, exciting answer to the ubiquitous Tasty D-Lites that drape the NYC dessert scene.
After some considerable time trying to locate one in the area we were in (two calls and many blackberry searches led us disappointingly to several "Swirling Soon" Pinkberries), we happened upon a popular location in Koreatown , with a 30 minute wait to get inside.
The inside was also packed along small tables next to the line with a young, eclectic crowd spooning delicious looking mixtures in large groups. The hip interior in light wood, whitewash and funky lanterns lead us to a cash register, where we under significant time pressure (for my novice self) to order as the line continued to pile up behind us and around the block.
Pinkberry offers two flavors, Original and Green Tea. The Green Tea is not the light, scented green tea sweetness that one often finds in a green tea-based dessert, but a heavy, smack you in the throat deep steeped (not even sweet) green tea flavored yogurt. The Original is a sweet version of frozen plain yogurt; a bit tart but delectable, with a lightness not found in the oversweetened fro-yo parlors one typically finds across the country. For toppings, a range of "trendy" fruits (think pomegranate seeds, blueberries and kiwi) are mixed with a few staple toppings (chocolate chips and shaved coconut) as well as some childhood delights (Cap'n Crunch, Fruity Pebbles).
Had I to do it over again (which I am sure I will) I will be more thoughtful about my choice of toppings (3 standard with a normal size), as blueberry and Cap'n Crunch struck me later as a bit peculiar, but definitely delicious. So, line up for your shot at the newest dessert place in NYC, and look out for Swirling Soon in your neighborhood.
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