Tucked in the trendy portion of Venice beach (the part with a La Jolla-on-weed feel, not the New Jersey-on-steroids bit) I was introduced to a fabulous find of a sushi restaurant on Abbot Kinney.
Shima (with no apparent website, but located at 1432 Abbot Kinney, and can be reached at 310.314.0882) is an organic, local-ingredient focused (not as hard in LA as elsewhere given the sushi-based menu). They had a very nice, short sake list; my dining companion and I opted for the Dewazakura "Nama genshu", which was lightly sweet, but clean and dry. An excellent match to every dish we tasted.
My friend had dined at Shima in the past, and we pitched the menus and requested the chef's omakase (tasting) menu.
The omakase consisted of 10 total courses, detailed below. To a one, they were well-executed and made of the freshest ingredients. On the margins, I could find a few nits to pick, but overall a tremendous meal displaying not only the fine art of simple, good sushi but also some innovation and inventive dishes.
Course 1 - Toro Tartare with black roe, topped with chives in a soy broth an served in a martini glass: a very nice star to the tasting, delicate with a creative presentation.
Course 2 - Spanish Mackerel salad, with ponzu sauce: a solid dish, with a salty and sharp sauce.
Course 3 - Maine Lobster ceviche with cucumbers and avocado. The lobster was firm and spicy/citrus sauce: very tasty, but also very bold and tart. That said, the sake cut the flavors nicely.
Course 4 - Red Snapper carpaccio with truffle oil and lemongrass: An adventurous course and bold for a traditional sushi house. A very well-done dish, and I award extra points for the contrasting flavors and the concept of truffle oil with sushi, generally.
Course 5 - Homemade Tofu Steak: Crisp outside, silky inside, a little less flavor than I would have liked but a perfect execution of textures.
Course 6 - Grilled Abalone with mushroom and asparagus. Unexpectedly flavorful with a hearty mushroom sauce and perfectly cooked Abalone.
Course 7 - We sampled two non-traditional Miso soups; neither stood out to me, but a good break late in the meal.
Courses 8 and 9 - The meal was rounded out with a high-quality selection of sushi (I even liked the Uni which I typically do not). The chef also asked us if we wanted to try a handroll, and made us one of spicy tuna; the stand out from this final dish was the crisp and light seaweed, with none of the "chewiness" one typically sees from many sushi restaurants.
Course 10 - A finishing sweet course, a gelato-like non-dairy surrounded by various fresh fruit. It had a semi-fredo texture and some tapioca and coconut flavors, a good cap to an excellent, long meal.
I would run, not walk, to this hidden gem in Venice if you are in LA, before it gets too swarmed.
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Friday, December 19, 2008
Chicago 2008: Sepia Update
Whilst I still have about 45 posts in draft form due to a terrible travel schedule, I felt compelled to skip enhancing my readers' culinary vision for a moment to pen another few words regarding Sepia. I think I have mentioned before that Sepia was hands down my #1 new restaurant in Chicago back in late 2007; since that time, it has only improved. Like the fine and eclectic wines that they have picked for their continuously refreshed wine list, this restaurant has matured beautifully.
I have taken the occasion to dine with clients, family and friends alike at Sepia no less than 15 times this year, and each time the menu is executed to perfection. The staff is always knowledgeable, courteous and fun. Many of my dining partners have said that the pork chop is the best they have ever had, hands down. And these are pork people. I myself am partial to the game dishes that rotate through the entree selections. Most recently, I sampled the Elk Chop, which was a large-portioned, perfectly cooked and seasoned masterpiece for the Winter-y months. In addition, the always amazing grilled calamari dish is sure to please first-time diners.
So, I entreat Chicago-area folks to sample the amazing cuisine of Chef Duque before he is whisked away by the Obamas to Washington as has recently been rumored.
I have taken the occasion to dine with clients, family and friends alike at Sepia no less than 15 times this year, and each time the menu is executed to perfection. The staff is always knowledgeable, courteous and fun. Many of my dining partners have said that the pork chop is the best they have ever had, hands down. And these are pork people. I myself am partial to the game dishes that rotate through the entree selections. Most recently, I sampled the Elk Chop, which was a large-portioned, perfectly cooked and seasoned masterpiece for the Winter-y months. In addition, the always amazing grilled calamari dish is sure to please first-time diners.
So, I entreat Chicago-area folks to sample the amazing cuisine of Chef Duque before he is whisked away by the Obamas to Washington as has recently been rumored.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Los Angeles 2008: Beso
In the late days of 2008, I had the occasion to be in Los Angeles and was lucky enough to gather with friends to celebrate the holidays at the cavernous, dimly lit Beso.
Eight gents gathered for a mid-week boys night out at the celeb-heavy spot by Todd English (and Eva Longoria). We spotted a few star athletes and my fellow Clevelander Drew Carey noshing on the "latin-inspired" cuisine.
For starters, the menu has a nice list of appetizers and shared plates. We sampled a very good guacamole with crisp tortilla strips, crispy lamb ribs (amazing and must have - crispy outside and tender inside with just the right spice of peanut chipotle sauce) and a nice selection of hand tacos in all varieties (fish, vegetable, steak and pork).
As the entrees arrived, we swapped out our cocktails for a spicy yet light syrah recommended by the waiter. I had a fabulous portion of whole branzini, with sides of sweet pot tater tots, asparagus and mashed potatoes. All were excellent, particularly the sweet tater tots. The branzini was prepared simply and whole with salt, pepper and oil.
A surprise finish to the meal, fresh churros with sweet cream were brought out to the table. We finished them off quickly, and ended the evening stuffed from the many courses.
Additionally, the real star seekers should stick around for the later night scene at Kiss, the upstairs lounge at Beso.
A well-done addition to the LA scene.
Eight gents gathered for a mid-week boys night out at the celeb-heavy spot by Todd English (and Eva Longoria). We spotted a few star athletes and my fellow Clevelander Drew Carey noshing on the "latin-inspired" cuisine.
For starters, the menu has a nice list of appetizers and shared plates. We sampled a very good guacamole with crisp tortilla strips, crispy lamb ribs (amazing and must have - crispy outside and tender inside with just the right spice of peanut chipotle sauce) and a nice selection of hand tacos in all varieties (fish, vegetable, steak and pork).
As the entrees arrived, we swapped out our cocktails for a spicy yet light syrah recommended by the waiter. I had a fabulous portion of whole branzini, with sides of sweet pot tater tots, asparagus and mashed potatoes. All were excellent, particularly the sweet tater tots. The branzini was prepared simply and whole with salt, pepper and oil.
A surprise finish to the meal, fresh churros with sweet cream were brought out to the table. We finished them off quickly, and ended the evening stuffed from the many courses.
Additionally, the real star seekers should stick around for the later night scene at Kiss, the upstairs lounge at Beso.
A well-done addition to the LA scene.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
New York 2008: iCi
On an unseasonably warm winter morning in early December, I walked across DeKalb Avenue in the Fort Greene area of Brooklyn with two locals to grab brunch at iCi. Meaning "here" in English, iCi is a charming, crowded French bistro style restaurant on the garden floor of a building just a few blocks from the park, and it feels almost a bit foreign and out of place...the format, interior and, importantly, food, exuded a true sense of Europe (they even eschew credit cards at brunch, a poor European trait).
iCi focuses on local, organic and farm-fresh ingredients to create its largely French Country menu. After a nice mug of decaf (not very European), I tried a glass of Rhone which turned out to be quite nice. My dining partners had the more traditional bloody mary start to their Sunday, which I understand were also quite tasty.
The menu is simple and fairly limited - a few egg dishes, a few bread dishes and some sides. This is a good thing, as the short description of each dish made me very indecisive. I finally opted for the poached eggs with truffled grits and cheddar. The large bowl was stuffed with the aforementioned ingredients, and very flavorful. I would note, however, that the thick mixture of grits and eggs with rich truffle and cheese notes was lukewarm; the dish would benefit from a bit more prompt service once out of the various pots and pans. That said, the chef has designed a dish that echoed both French and American comfort food. Particularly when paired with the "Bacon with Fat" side dish - thick, fat pieces of bacon almost as succulent as pork belly. A must have.
My companions had the french toast (with apple and pear compote), shirred eggs (which I had never heard of) with collard greens, and a side of chicken sausage. The french toast was well-done with a thick brioche and steeped in sweet syrup. The shirred eggs took the gold medal though. In addition to the described collard greens, the bowl (same serving as my eggs and grits, but piping hot!) was overflowing with a bechamel sauce and chunks of the "Bacon with Fat" mixed into the eggs. I had a one forkful and was certain of what I order on my next trip.
I applaud the efforts the owners are making to support local, fresh ingredients and the eclectic, tasty dishes they have developed (at least on the brunch menu). A few tweaks to the service (to adjust the temperatures, of course) and a more rational credit card policy (they do take credit cards at dinner, just not brunch) would make this a perfect breakfast spot - an old world menu, new world ingredients, and a hip location in burgeoning Fort Greene. Give it a try, and don't miss the bacon.
iCi focuses on local, organic and farm-fresh ingredients to create its largely French Country menu. After a nice mug of decaf (not very European), I tried a glass of Rhone which turned out to be quite nice. My dining partners had the more traditional bloody mary start to their Sunday, which I understand were also quite tasty.
The menu is simple and fairly limited - a few egg dishes, a few bread dishes and some sides. This is a good thing, as the short description of each dish made me very indecisive. I finally opted for the poached eggs with truffled grits and cheddar. The large bowl was stuffed with the aforementioned ingredients, and very flavorful. I would note, however, that the thick mixture of grits and eggs with rich truffle and cheese notes was lukewarm; the dish would benefit from a bit more prompt service once out of the various pots and pans. That said, the chef has designed a dish that echoed both French and American comfort food. Particularly when paired with the "Bacon with Fat" side dish - thick, fat pieces of bacon almost as succulent as pork belly. A must have.
My companions had the french toast (with apple and pear compote), shirred eggs (which I had never heard of) with collard greens, and a side of chicken sausage. The french toast was well-done with a thick brioche and steeped in sweet syrup. The shirred eggs took the gold medal though. In addition to the described collard greens, the bowl (same serving as my eggs and grits, but piping hot!) was overflowing with a bechamel sauce and chunks of the "Bacon with Fat" mixed into the eggs. I had a one forkful and was certain of what I order on my next trip.
I applaud the efforts the owners are making to support local, fresh ingredients and the eclectic, tasty dishes they have developed (at least on the brunch menu). A few tweaks to the service (to adjust the temperatures, of course) and a more rational credit card policy (they do take credit cards at dinner, just not brunch) would make this a perfect breakfast spot - an old world menu, new world ingredients, and a hip location in burgeoning Fort Greene. Give it a try, and don't miss the bacon.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
New York 2008: Chinatown Brasserie
The onset of Winter always brings memories of family feasts; heavy, aromatic meals and comforting food in an atmosphere of close relatives and friends. I made my first trip of the cold season to New York this week, and had a hankering for Chinese food.
Chicago doesn't have good Chinese food outside of the small Chinatown on the South Side. To be clear, there are many good *Asian* dining opportunities, and I would be remiss if I didn't note that the Peninsula's Shanghai Terrace has a excellent Chinese cuisine. But for some reason, New York is just different - the pure Chinese restaurant (no Pad Thai, no pan-Asian noodle dishes, no sushi) is an art form. Outside of Asia, I know no better Peking Duck and Dim Sum than inside the borough of Manhattan.
So, yearning for some real Chinese cuisine, I called up a few friends and had a nice Chinese banquet at the downtown Chinatown Brasserie. CB is one of the better Chinese places in New York. I prefer Shun Lee for Peking Duck, but this is a great place to explore all the variations of Dim Sum.
The lush interior evokes the feel of a real formal Asian dining experience, the service is somewhat slow, but adequate. The menu is varied but not too voluminous as some Chinese eateries seem to be.
One of my friends who frequents CB did the ordering; we had all of the major food groups - Pork, Chicken, Shrimp, Beef, and, of course, the Peking Duck.
There were so many varied dishes that it is hard to recount them all, but the highlights of the meal included the soup dumplings (tender pork and crab mixture filled with broth in a perfectly cooked dumpling), the turnip tofu with spicy sauce, and the chicken with crispy fried spinach.
The Peking Duck has less meat than crispy fried skin, but was solid.
Overall, a nice way to start the Wintery season, a solid meal for anyone craving Chinese after a long respite.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Chicago 2008: Province
I was perusing my backlog of drafts, and realized that I have over 40 items I have yet to properly post. For this, dear reader, I apologize. I am hopeful that I will be more diligent in posting in the coming months. With that lame apology out of the way, I bring you my latest dining experience.
New last week from former Nacional 27 chef Randy Zweiban comes Province, a LEED-certified, open space in the West Loop which incorporates green building materials and kitchen equipment, and stresses farm-to-table cuisine from local producers.
The service started off the evening right. From the minute our server came to introduce the South American cuisine and various "categories" of the menu, the service was exemplary. The manager and Chef Randy both came to chat with us at various points during the meal. In addition, the manager spent a good deal of time helping us pick a wonderful Tempranillo (Campillo, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain '94) which was well-aged, still acidic but with great flavor. Very unusual in this day and age for a new restaurant to have such a good selection of older wines.
We decided to explore the different types of servings outlined on the menu: Bites, Raw, SoupsSalads, Small, Big, Bigger.
After we ordered the wine, the chef sent out an amuse bouche: smoked salmon, cucumber, olive with chile cream cheese. A nice gesture to start the meal.
From the "Bites" section (which are about the size of a passed appetizer) we sampled the Mini Pork Sandwiches, which were good but served a little too cold, and excellent, crispy Squash Taquitos with a delicious chive & mayo dressing. Next came the "Small" section of the menu, which were more "normal" appetizer size. We sampled both the Fluke & Grapefruit Cerviche, which consisted of slices of soft and tender fish laced with a citrus and pepper flavor throughout and an order of the Shrimp & Manchego Grits, which were smooth & creamy with firm, grilled popcorn shrimp (perhaps our favorite dish of the evening).
The "Big" dishes are akin to a half order of a normal sized entree, and the "Bigger" dishes are regular entree portions. We had a few of these eclectic dishes, to try the range of interesting combinations that have been put out by Chef Randy - Lamb with Cornbread & Chorizo (Lamb is a bit too gamey, cornbread with chorizo very good); Rabbit Confit with Garlic & Almond butter (amazing flavor, but I would lose the celery); Slow-Cooked Salmon with Leeks (decent, good flavors, but served too cold).
Overall, an ambitious environmentally friendly newcomer with great service, and with a few tweaks, a stellar menu.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Cleveland 2008: Table 45
Situated (somewhat oddly) in the Intercontinental at the Cleveland Clinic (I guess doctors at conferences and long-term patients' families need good food too), Zack Bruell's Table 45 is a spacious and open format, with niches carves across an expansive room, done in blond woods and dark letters.
While they were out of both of our first two wine selections, the entire waitstaff was extremely helpful and brought us a bottle of Torres, Mas Las Plana '97, which was a nice Bordeaux-styled South American with good earth tones. The waitstaff (numerous) were highly professional and amazing throughout the meal (terrible state of the world that this is *such* a surprise), but I applaud them.
The Naan of the Day, a fontina cheese naan, was a gracious portion and served with three sauces (tomato, hummus and a curry aioli - all very spicy).
The menu was substantial, and themed with many Indian flavors. We had a large party, but highlighted a range of dishes, including Scallops, Indian Peking Duck, Lamb and Venison.
I myself sampled the Tandoori Pork Belly, the Crispy Calamari and the Maple Glazed Venison with Bacon and Pumpkin Spaetzle.
The calamari was a bit too heavily breaded, and I would have served it with the curry aioli. The Tandoori Pork Belly was excellent, and the cumin-scented rice and bok choy was well-paired. One of our party also raved about the Beet Salad.
The entrees were universally well-prepared, with visual elements highlighting the Indian theme. The venison was much less gamey (and 'chewy') than a typical venison dish. The pumpkin spaetzle was quite nice, as was the sauteed spinach. I sampled the duck, which was very good (albeit a bit fatty) as well.
In sum, a shining high-end Star of American-India in the hospital district, with a few things to work on. But the service and several good dishes more than compensate for the 'room for improvement'.
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