New York 2008: iCi

On an unseasonably warm winter morning in early December, I walked across DeKalb Avenue in the Fort Greene area of Brooklyn with two locals to grab brunch at iCi. Meaning "here" in English, iCi is a charming, crowded French bistro style restaurant on the garden floor of a building just a few blocks from the park, and it feels almost a bit foreign and out of place...the format, interior and, importantly, food, exuded a true sense of Europe (they even eschew credit cards at brunch, a poor European trait).

iCi focuses on local, organic and farm-fresh ingredients to create its largely French Country menu. After a nice mug of decaf (not very European), I tried a glass of Rhone which turned out to be quite nice. My dining partners had the more traditional bloody mary start to their Sunday, which I understand were also quite tasty.

The menu is simple and fairly limited - a few egg dishes, a few bread dishes and some sides. This is a good thing, as the short description of each dish made me very indecisive. I finally opted for the poached eggs with truffled grits and cheddar. The large bowl was stuffed with the aforementioned ingredients, and very flavorful. I would note, however, that the thick mixture of grits and eggs with rich truffle and cheese notes was lukewarm; the dish would benefit from a bit more prompt service once out of the various pots and pans. That said, the chef has designed a dish that echoed both French and American comfort food. Particularly when paired with the "Bacon with Fat" side dish - thick, fat pieces of bacon almost as succulent as pork belly. A must have.

My companions had the french toast (with apple and pear compote), shirred eggs (which I had never heard of) with collard greens, and a side of chicken sausage. The french toast was well-done with a thick brioche and steeped in sweet syrup. The shirred eggs took the gold medal though. In addition to the described collard greens, the bowl (same serving as my eggs and grits, but piping hot!) was overflowing with a bechamel sauce and chunks of the "Bacon with Fat" mixed into the eggs. I had a one forkful and was certain of what I order on my next trip.

I applaud the efforts the owners are making to support local, fresh ingredients and the eclectic, tasty dishes they have developed (at least on the brunch menu). A few tweaks to the service (to adjust the temperatures, of course) and a more rational credit card policy (they do take credit cards at dinner, just not brunch) would make this a perfect breakfast spot - an old world menu, new world ingredients, and a hip location in burgeoning Fort Greene. Give it a try, and don't miss the bacon.