Chicago 2008 - Takashi

The minimalist new "Asian" restaurant on the Northern side of the Bucktown/Wicker Park trendy-ness has a lot to love. Takashi offers an excellent take on some French-styled Japanese favorites (e.g. raw and seared fish, spring rolls) as well as some more hip American comfort food, which scored big points with the Cress_Travel demographic.  The raw fish was very fresh, with light saucing accompanied by interesting vegetables (hearts of palm and avocado, as an example).

Where Takashi really shone from this diner's perspective was in a succulent rendition of "fried chicken", which consisted of petite chicken wings, fried in duck fat and accompanied by delicious handcut fries, also fried in duck fat.  So good that we ordered seconds for "dessert", much to the surprise of the waiter.  I imagined a chef from a southern diner imprisoned by a master of sushi (with a penchant for precision) and forced to remake a typical "comfort food" dish until it had achieved enlightenment - this was the reincarnation of fried chicken and fries that Siddhartha Gautama himself would consider Nirvana.

The balance of the meal was well crafted, but nothing to the level of art of either the sashimi appetizers nor what I will now call the Nirvana Chicken.  Skate paired with an inventive lobster sausage, Alaskan Halibut wrapped in a nice Yuba Tofu with strong essence of ginger. 

As always, service is a critical component of any good dining experience.  While disappointed that they would not seat me before my party arrived (a small birthday party for a friend), this is standard operating procedure in a big-city restaurant.  The real critique here is that the bar consists of enough space for no more than five or six people, and that is being generous.  I would counsel a waiting area (the hostess stand is practically on top of the door) for such a popular place.  The waitstaff was very friendly and well-versed in the food, so with the exception of the space itself, an overall great experience.

Events 2008 - JON BON JOVI

It has been quite some time since a real post. I apologize, but beg forgiveness on the ever-ambiguous personal issues disclaimer. I am jump-starting my hopefully more regular return to posting with the following abnormal snippet.

Whilst not exactly a culinary experience, I went to see Jon Bon Jovi in concert the other night. To coin a friend, the cultural relevance of JBJ three decades in is astounding. It was a mildly engrossing show, with the right mix of sap and hardcore rock moments to appease the cougars and the 30-sthg wanna be yuppies who miss their youth. What is most interesting is the ability of someone who was a young 'rocker' in the 80s to translate to a cross-ageular group in the year 2008. Not quite a Buffett or 'Dead phenomenon, but a truly interesting experience in our internet age - visceral yet normal. JBJ, keep livin' on a prayer, and helping us do the same.

New York 2008 - Country

For many years, I have felt like a star-crossed lover as I tried to visit Country, Geoffrey Zakarian's Midtown dining room in the historic Seville hotel. I had reservations no less than five times, only to be stymied by bad weather, bad timing or bad friends.

As I trekked back to Manhattan on a snowy Winter night, having been rebuffed by the gods who control the LGA-ORD corridor and sentenced to another night in NYC, a last minute call to a friend yielded a "yes, would love to have dinner, but needs to be near my office - how about Country".

Splendid, I thought; my friend is a regular to the cafe given his proximity to work, but we enjoyed a prix fixe in the formal dining room just 30 minutes later.

A delectable set of dishes awaited us; Ouefs Au Plat - sunny side up, crab meat, simmered fish broth and crostini, rich yet light; a Duck Torte - filled with organ meat, rich and tasty; a savory Bison Wellington - perfect for the weather outside; a serviceable (although highly recommended not great) poached pear dessert.

The biggest surprise was that despite a fantastic venue and solid food throughout with a bit of flair, the place was empty - - it may have been the weather, but I blame the service. I would not return to the dining room for only service-related reasons. A sommelier who pushed wine he wanted to get rid of - two $250 bottles that were not ready to drink, despite protestations, and invisible servers when something was needed.

My advice to Monsieur Zakarian: the food is right, get the staff in line.

Chicago 2008 - Nxxt

In an effort to keep my loyal readers up to date on new openings, I am posting the first "ghost written" piece on Cress_Travel, by CVW:

Swanky interior with red leather booths and chairs. Braised short ribs served pulled off the bones atop a southern recipe cornbread. "Scallops three ways" all excellent with great presentation. Plates all white, very clean and well designed dishes. Sous chef Alex Heinrich sent over a sample of the 'Mac and cheese'. You can smell the truffle oil as the food approaches the table. A wonderful new age representation of classic comfort food. Roasted beet salad with fennel and manchego cheese had a fantastic vinaigrette which tied the whole plate together. The crawdad cakes were a but spicy however the hush puppies were amazing. The chicken entree was à half chicken served on a bed of garlic mashers with honey glazed baby carrots. All good things. This chic new spot provides both excellent service and contemporary comfort food in the ukranian village.

Chicago 2008 - Happy Chef Dim Sum House

Chicago is a city of unique neighborhoods and niche-y restaurants. I have always been disappointed that many of my friends and colleagues have never explored the many fine dining experiences available in Chicago's Chinatown.

Take a bus, train or cab down to Archer and Cermak, where the "main street" of Chinatown is centered. There are a number of great, authentic eating places where you can experience as much or as little of China as you want . . . they range from the very "normal" American-ized Chinese, to adventurous forays into the most mysterious of Chinese delicacies.

One of the very best of these places is the Happy Chef Dim Sum House at 2164 South Archer Avenue (just East of Cermak). Happy Chef is open seven days a week from 9am until 2am, so there really isn't any excuse not to make it down there. One enters through a parking lot "back door" of the Archer Avenue mini-mall which houses tens of similar restaurants. The Happy Chef is unique in that it has some of the best cuisine in Chicago.

As you creep into the back of the restaurant, you will not be awed by either traditional Oriental-kitsch found in a restaurant of this type, nor higher-end Asian flair that drapes the likes of Shanghai Terrace further uptown. You will be greeted by a busy staff shuttling large, steaming dishes of recognizable and unrecognizable to simple white tables covered with plastic. Not romantic, not cozy, not even comfortable. But the food will make you forgive all of that.

If you are not Asian, or do not speak fluent Chinese, you may have a bit of a challenge communicating your order. However, once you choose from the vast menu (ranging from traditional "Americanized" dishes such as Kung-Pao Chicken to a Live Frog dish), things start moving quickly. Complimentary hot tea and soup arrive as you wait for the bountiful dishes you have selected. The portions are huge, and the taste authentic. Having spent many months in China, I can tell you that will find the ingredients and preparations to equal the casual restaurants of the Cantonese style.

In addition, there is an extensive Dim Sum menu for those who prefer the variety of dumplings for which the Happy Chef takes its name; however, I like the traditional Cantonese, family-style dishes at which this establishment excels.

Note: Sunday night dinner "dessert" consists of a pea-soup looking tapioca with sweet beans; it looks like a heavy sauce you might have with a black bean sauteed fish, and probably something you will tepidly taste at first, but it is a nice cap to the meal of a warm, sweet soup.

Chicago 2008 - Follia

Bruno Abate's West Loop fixture Follia has charmed my senses and delighted my palate since he opened this outpost of true Italian cuisine several years ago, and I once again had the perfect trendy and authentic meal this weekend. Bruno's motto "cibo e moda" is a nod to the up-and-coming fashion designers he showcases in place of art in his funky ristorante.

Situated next to Fulton Lounge (a good place for a pre-dinner drink), Follia serves up fresh pasta (the parpadelle is my favorite), house made mozzarella and dried meats, a delectable pizza, and traditional Italian entrees including a fine Branzino, Scampi Al Forno, Tagliata and Veal Scaloppine. The right mix fresh-made food and flair makes Follia a versatile place to take a hot date or have a family meal!

The wine list features an impressive array of Italian wines, ranging from modest priced glasses and bottles to the best Italy has to offer.

Desserts continue to please the discerning patron; an excellent cheese course and fine Italian traditions make a pleasant end to the meal, as does the robust selection of limoncellos and other after-dinner drinks.

And lastly, the most important feature of the restaurant, Bruno himself; he is an extraordinary host, and every single patron will come away each and every visit feeling like they are a "VIP" guest in Bruno's private club. He has a remarkable skill as a host and as a creator of fine cuisine and wine pairings; I am proud to call him a friend in what can sometimes be an "industry" of food service, Bruno brings it back to basics - and makes you crave your next visit.

London 2008 - Tom Aikens

Tom Aikens probably hates me. No, definitely. It turns out that last night I was that obnoxious guy who reserved the private room for a small group (less than "allowed") and then proceeds to actually drink the aperitifs, wine pairings, and dessert wines that fold into the "Classic Menu", so as to become very drunk and further boisterous. Luckily, the private room reservation allowed them to sequester me in the back of the venue with no contact with the more upstanding patrons.

I have to say, as both a testament and a critique (for its own sake), that the wine pairings menu was more robust than any I have seen. At El Bulli, Alinea, WD-40, Moto, etc they typically pour a 1/3 to 1/2 portion of wine per course. At Tom Aikens, the *very* attentive servers probably tipped the bottle closer to a full glass + . . . which pleased me, but as we approached dessert, we were still trying to catch ourselves up to all of the fine wines that were served.

As you can tell, the night didn't end up quite as civilized as expected, but that can't erase the memory of the inventive and strongly-flavored dishes that Tom Aikens (owner and chef) pumped out of the kitchen. Despite the language barriers (I think they hire exclusively French service staff), the dishes were on the point - stark, strong reflections of the concept that was articulated on the menu. I also must complement the strength of the service staff not only on describing and delivering the menu, but also accommodating the less experienced / less adventurous diners at the table. Despite the blasphemy of changing the "Tom Aikens Classic" menu, with fluid ease the servers helped our friends navigate away from Foie Gras and Pig's Head dishes.

As a side note, the Pig's Head dish was actually not a pig's head. This was quite a surprise to me, but it was more of a "Tour de Pig"; excellent trotters stuffed with marrow, perfectly flavored and textured pig's cheek, fried pig's ear and seared pig's belly.

The fish dishes were elegant but overpowering in flavor - stay for the sauce but don't mistake it for healthy. The more savory dishes were true to form and paired well with the heavier wines that came toward the end of the progression. As my friend AC will say, the "pop rocks" lollipop dessert thrilled (enough for a repeat).

Definitely a place to return; two Michelin stars well-deserved, and kudos for allowing a group of Yanks to go wild on a Friday night, with impeccable service to cover our faux pas . . .I need to put a special note out to the server who *attempted* to bring in the cheese course to this inebriated ship of fools; thanks for the discretion.