Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Chicago 2010: Sable
Housed in the Palomar hotel in River North, one of Chicago's newest hot spots is Sable. The restaurant has an open kitchen with edgy and attractive decor, and the friendly service you would expect of a hotel restaurant. But what sets Sable apart is the unique, but oddly accessible, offering of both drinks and cuisine.
The bar area (which opens onto the main entrance) boasts a host of mixologists pouring a menu designed by Mike Ryan (formerly of Violet Hour and MOTO) that has a bible of cocktails that will delight. These range from elegant versions of old stand-bys (a Manhattan with Rittenhouse 101 was my first beverage of the evening) to the inventive "Trust me" page which sports The Most Dangerous Game (Vodka, Fernet Branca, fresh beet juice and Mexican coffee bitters) as well as the Yoino Buta, or "Drunken Pig" (Yamazaki 12 year Japanese Whiskey, housemade bacon bitters and bacon-brown sugar syrup). The service is much faster than many of the other "craft drink" spots that have cropped up across the nation recently, despite being of equal or better quality.
Following our sojourn at Mike's amazing bar, we made our way to the dining room on the East side of the restaurant. The menu in the restaurant is slightly more tame than the bar. A range of unusual preparations of standard dishes - veal meatballs, ham & swiss "poppers", buttermilk fried quail, among others, make decisions difficult. In addition, the portions of the dishes, even though served in a "tasting" style are substantial. I don't think I have ever cautioned my readers about over-ordering; but I must here, as I was tempted to order "one of everything" given the relatively inexpensive panoply of fine dining.
We began with the veal meatballs, which are served with a spicy ketchup glaze. The veal is smooth and tender, and the spicy sauce is truly a crisp glaze. Excellent and served in a cast pot with bamboo toothpicks.
We were mistakenly brought a dish of the mini soft pretzels, with a rich and tasty cheddar cheese dip. We ate them promptly.
The mussels were spicy and of very high quality - served with oiled bread in a cast iron pot - and excellent. The perfect size and flavor. Next came a small basked of corn & scallion hush puppies, with a smoked paprika salt. These were excellent as well.
I snuck in an order of deviled eggs, as the menu description intrigued me. They were orgasmic, with truffle oil whipped with the egg yolks, and topped with a crisped black trumpet mushroom. I really recommend these - I have never been one to order deviled eggs, but it was a standout.
By this time, it had became apparent that we had over-ordered a bit, as we continued to be plied with the delicious yet heady cocktails. Then the BLT sliders arrived. They were made with crispy pork belly instead of bacon. I would change the bread (egg bun) to a firmer bread, perhaps toasted whole grain, but the small sandwiches were rich and excellent.
The tuna tartar tacos appeared suddenly. They were small homemade tacos, with rounds of corn meal and a spicy sauce. These were very good and a lighter, refreshing course.
Having nearly forgotten there was more to go when the prosciutto pizza arrived, topped with oil-soaked olives (I would pass on the olives) and arugula. Well-cooked and excellent with a fried egg on top. Finally, a set of short-rib sliders came to the table. They were good but a little rich (oddly) with some interesting spice.
Overall, this was a great meal and a great experience. You should get to Sable before it becomes to crowded to enjoy - its that good!
Friday, June 4, 2010
Chicago 2010: The Purple Pig
Just to the South of 500 North Michigan Avenue, there is a a grand entrance, wrought of iron, proclaiming the way to the The Purple Pig, through which one passes to the restaurant's spacious outdoor patio before arriving at the door of the restaurant. However, if you approach from the North, you stumble upon a more traditional office building, and hidden away behind the elevator bank, a rustic wood and glass door declares "Cheese, Wine & Swine". It was in this way I entered the restaurant for the first time, having retreated from an art opening and seeking an early Friday evening dinner.
Inside, the place is all hustle and bustle with loud-ish music pumping, which was frankly a bit in contrast with the country-kitchen decor (floral tiles and light wood walls).
There was a large selection of accessible wines (many priced at less than $40), as well as some very nice higher-end vinos (but all very young vintages). They pour by the carafe, half bottle and glass for any of the less than $40 selections, which is very nice for tasting and for larger parties. We selected a bottle of the popular Whispering Angel Rose '08 for this hot early summer evening.
The fresh-baked foccacia (sans herbs) which came out with the menus was not very good, but the service was prompt if a bit hurried.
The menu is all served tapas style, and comes out quickly when ordered. With antipasti such as salt-roasted beets with whipped goat cheese (a great flavored beet, and I really could have eaten several orders, unusual for my carnivore self) and rock shrimp with spring peas (very good and 'fresh' tasting with a touch of lemon), it is hard to narrow down choices. Next up was a decent selection of cured meats (we started with a pile of thinly sliced Jamon Serrano, which was ok, but not to the quality of, say The Publican) and "smears" to spread on crostini (we sampled the bone marrow with herbs, two huge chunks of bone with parsley, capers and fennel, and a salt dish, which was very good but the crostini were over-oiled for such a rich flavor). The cheese is a highlight of the menu, with sampler plates of 3 or 5 types from the broader list of 16 available. We tried a camembert (very nice), a 6-month aged gouda (could have been a 5-year, excellent), and a manchego (not that good). The crisp yet chewy bread served with the cheeses were excellent (perhaps better-suited for the marrow dish as well).
We then got more serious, we decided to skip the list of tasty sounding "fried items" (you know, health reasons) and went with the octopus from the "A La Plancha" menu. Thick pieces of octopus (1 inch radius) were very well grilled with a hash of swiss chard and a small tapioca-esque grain. This was a highlight.
The menu has a salads and a few panini as well, which we did not try.
The atmosphere and decor could use some work. The restaurant has badly-spaced tables and a strange combination of white marble tables, country kitchen walls, dark reclaimed wood floors and red diner banquettes. It needs to make up its mind and space itself out. There is a nice outdoor space, though.
In all honesty, I had forgotten for many months about this restaurant. I recall the opening and a bunch of good PR, but then it dropped off my radar (largely due to location). However, while I would go again if I were in the area, this is not a spot I would make a special trip for - too many pieces missing to make the whole a complete and exciting experience.
Inside, the place is all hustle and bustle with loud-ish music pumping, which was frankly a bit in contrast with the country-kitchen decor (floral tiles and light wood walls).
There was a large selection of accessible wines (many priced at less than $40), as well as some very nice higher-end vinos (but all very young vintages). They pour by the carafe, half bottle and glass for any of the less than $40 selections, which is very nice for tasting and for larger parties. We selected a bottle of the popular Whispering Angel Rose '08 for this hot early summer evening.
The fresh-baked foccacia (sans herbs) which came out with the menus was not very good, but the service was prompt if a bit hurried.
The menu is all served tapas style, and comes out quickly when ordered. With antipasti such as salt-roasted beets with whipped goat cheese (a great flavored beet, and I really could have eaten several orders, unusual for my carnivore self) and rock shrimp with spring peas (very good and 'fresh' tasting with a touch of lemon), it is hard to narrow down choices. Next up was a decent selection of cured meats (we started with a pile of thinly sliced Jamon Serrano, which was ok, but not to the quality of, say The Publican) and "smears" to spread on crostini (we sampled the bone marrow with herbs, two huge chunks of bone with parsley, capers and fennel, and a salt dish, which was very good but the crostini were over-oiled for such a rich flavor). The cheese is a highlight of the menu, with sampler plates of 3 or 5 types from the broader list of 16 available. We tried a camembert (very nice), a 6-month aged gouda (could have been a 5-year, excellent), and a manchego (not that good). The crisp yet chewy bread served with the cheeses were excellent (perhaps better-suited for the marrow dish as well).
We then got more serious, we decided to skip the list of tasty sounding "fried items" (you know, health reasons) and went with the octopus from the "A La Plancha" menu. Thick pieces of octopus (1 inch radius) were very well grilled with a hash of swiss chard and a small tapioca-esque grain. This was a highlight.
The menu has a salads and a few panini as well, which we did not try.
The atmosphere and decor could use some work. The restaurant has badly-spaced tables and a strange combination of white marble tables, country kitchen walls, dark reclaimed wood floors and red diner banquettes. It needs to make up its mind and space itself out. There is a nice outdoor space, though.
In all honesty, I had forgotten for many months about this restaurant. I recall the opening and a bunch of good PR, but then it dropped off my radar (largely due to location). However, while I would go again if I were in the area, this is not a spot I would make a special trip for - too many pieces missing to make the whole a complete and exciting experience.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Chicago 2010: "Bike & Brunch" - Chez Joel
Chez Joël is a true French bistro set in the heart of Little Italy (there is no "little France" in Chicago). It is simple yet refined. Small romantic tables, French posters and an outdoor area set in a brick walled garden.
Why then would this be a spot to bike to for brunch? After a particularly crazy evening out, I dragged myself out of bed committed to continue this little Sunday morning project. However, by the time we got our act together, most brunch spots had already closed, and I noticed the Taylor Street bistro empty but open at 2pm.
So, terribly under dressed, we locked our bikes to a nearby signpost and gingerly wandered into the restaurant's outdoor dining (fittingly it had an Italian fashion poster on the brick wall, presumably an homage to its Little Italy location).
We gulped some water and sampled hot, fresh-baked bread with butter and jam, which was excellent.
My biking partner ordered what turned out to be a massive "Benedicte Provencal", which was a Benedict without the muffin - rather it was set on a tian of vegetables. I was assured it was quite good.
I opted for the Croque Madame, which was served with shoestring fries (which were not crispy, very tender and excellent). The Croque Madame was very good, and I would definitely order it again.
All and all, a successful second episode of Bike & Brunch.
Why then would this be a spot to bike to for brunch? After a particularly crazy evening out, I dragged myself out of bed committed to continue this little Sunday morning project. However, by the time we got our act together, most brunch spots had already closed, and I noticed the Taylor Street bistro empty but open at 2pm.
So, terribly under dressed, we locked our bikes to a nearby signpost and gingerly wandered into the restaurant's outdoor dining (fittingly it had an Italian fashion poster on the brick wall, presumably an homage to its Little Italy location).
We gulped some water and sampled hot, fresh-baked bread with butter and jam, which was excellent.
My biking partner ordered what turned out to be a massive "Benedicte Provencal", which was a Benedict without the muffin - rather it was set on a tian of vegetables. I was assured it was quite good.
I opted for the Croque Madame, which was served with shoestring fries (which were not crispy, very tender and excellent). The Croque Madame was very good, and I would definitely order it again.
All and all, a successful second episode of Bike & Brunch.
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Dusseldorf 2010: Tanta Anna
Walking through the old city can be a touristy trap or a delightful respite back in time. When I asked for a 'traditional' spot to dine on my second night in Dusseldorf, the helpful concierge pointed me to Tanta Anna in the old city.
I became suspicious that I had taken a wrong turn on this pleasant, sunny Spring eve as the pedestrian traffic thinned markedly upon entering the Andreastrasse. It was the kind of evening one imagined in the Spring in Europe; a modest wind cooling the sun in a bright sky to a near perfect temperature. As I reflected on the 65-degree early evening, a decrepit sign loomed large at the corner of the next block, proclaiming my destination was just ahead, and so I paced forward and crept gingerly into the nearly empty dining room shrouded by a heavy curtain.
I became suspicious that I had taken a wrong turn on this pleasant, sunny Spring eve as the pedestrian traffic thinned markedly upon entering the Andreastrasse. It was the kind of evening one imagined in the Spring in Europe; a modest wind cooling the sun in a bright sky to a near perfect temperature. As I reflected on the 65-degree early evening, a decrepit sign loomed large at the corner of the next block, proclaiming my destination was just ahead, and so I paced forward and crept gingerly into the nearly empty dining room shrouded by a heavy curtain.
A rich and well-worn dark wood paneled the room, along with many brass plates, relics and trockenspiel (I will presume my high school German treated me right here). Stained glass windows and script on the walls gave the place a ratskeller-style feel. It overwhelmed the senses a bit, and as I took stock of the ancient bar (Anno 1593 in an historic script on the wood paneling above), I wondered if myself and the two others (both non-natives) had been tagged with a "tourist" sign on our backs. We would find out.
An amuse soon arrived after my order of the chef's degustation menu: a veal liver pate with vegetable salad. It had a, well, veal livery flavor and a crunchy set of vegetables underneath in a white sauce. Decent but uninspired, and doubt crept in that I had been relegated to a place for American tourists.
I take a moment here to note, very out of character, I did not choose the wine pairings. My trepidation was bolstered by the lack of sommelier present and the names of the chosen wines (all German, nearly all whites) printed on the menu next to each course. Too, I wanted to be "authentic" so I figured that after the proffered aperitif, I would switch to a draft beer.
I munched on some house made breads (simple but with different nuts and vegetables inserted, quite nice) and awaited the "traditional" German degustation. As I finished the last of my champagne, the first course arrived to the antique table inlaid with metal pattern:
Course One: Raw marinated scallops with summer truffle, cauliflower mousse and bell pepper fume. What, you might ask, does this have to do with traditional German cuisine? I have no idea, but the scallops were pasty (in a good way, I can't find other words to describe it), and while I will remind my readers that red peppers are not my favorite flavor, the cauliflower mousse and white truffles, combined with a crisp potato "coaster" which balanced said scallops above the mousse, came together very nicely to start the meal. I would note the red pepper fume did detract from the delicate flavor of the truffles, however. All said, a very good start to what I was worried would be a disappointing experience.
Course Two: Clear chervil soup with crispy chicken "lolly". The steaming hot cup of soup had a bit of sweetness to it, and the chicken lollipop (a round of flat, shredded meat on a large toothpick) truly looked like a lolly, and was delicious.
Course Three: Poached halibut with glazed carrots, oyster and pancetta broth. I did not care for this dish. The oyster was wrapped around the halibut, which was dry (particularly for being poached). A low-light of the evening.
Course Four: Fried rabbit with parsley. Lightly breaded and succulent. Served with an excellently prepared scalloped potato in broth. Fried parsley drizzled on top. From low-light to highlight! Perfectly seasoned and hot out of the pan. A dish I couldn't have asked more from - and one that oozed "authentic German".
Course Five: Cheese specialties of maitre Affineur G. Waltmann. This course turned out to be three cheeses: a Rotweinkaese, a Roquefort, and a brie with ash. All quite excellent - an amazingly fine sample of cheeses; the entree course (number four) and this together would have been an outstanding meal alone.
Course Six: Bundt cake with rhubarb, mint pesto and chocolate sorbet. Very nicely done, and the mint pesto was excellent.
As I wrapped up my dining, fearing the raw caloric intake I had just accomplished, I reflected on the meal. While I sat for nearly 3 hours, the wait staff was not slow; they executing with the precision of the French-trained boys over at The Victorian just not the chatting and hovering. They refilled promptly, brought out dishes with perfect timing when I was done enjoying the prior course and another stein of beer. I would also add that the pilsner and the dunkelweiss beer on tap were both excellent.
I discovered too late that my decision to skip the wine pairings was unfortunate indeed - the Tanta Anna is one of the premier and original "Wine Houses" in Dusseldorf. A silly mistake of impressions - three of which befell me on this evening's fine dining, as you will note from above.
Nonetheless, the dining was top notch, and truly an authentic locale in the old city. Who knew that a brief two day trip to Germany for some meetings would result in such culinary delights - I only wish I had time to sample the more local and bohemian pubs and restaurants I spied on my walk to and from dinner. Make your way there, and catch the rabbit.
Course One: Raw marinated scallops with summer truffle, cauliflower mousse and bell pepper fume. What, you might ask, does this have to do with traditional German cuisine? I have no idea, but the scallops were pasty (in a good way, I can't find other words to describe it), and while I will remind my readers that red peppers are not my favorite flavor, the cauliflower mousse and white truffles, combined with a crisp potato "coaster" which balanced said scallops above the mousse, came together very nicely to start the meal. I would note the red pepper fume did detract from the delicate flavor of the truffles, however. All said, a very good start to what I was worried would be a disappointing experience.
Course Two: Clear chervil soup with crispy chicken "lolly". The steaming hot cup of soup had a bit of sweetness to it, and the chicken lollipop (a round of flat, shredded meat on a large toothpick) truly looked like a lolly, and was delicious.
Course Three: Poached halibut with glazed carrots, oyster and pancetta broth. I did not care for this dish. The oyster was wrapped around the halibut, which was dry (particularly for being poached). A low-light of the evening.
Course Four: Fried rabbit with parsley. Lightly breaded and succulent. Served with an excellently prepared scalloped potato in broth. Fried parsley drizzled on top. From low-light to highlight! Perfectly seasoned and hot out of the pan. A dish I couldn't have asked more from - and one that oozed "authentic German".
Course Five: Cheese specialties of maitre Affineur G. Waltmann. This course turned out to be three cheeses: a Rotweinkaese, a Roquefort, and a brie with ash. All quite excellent - an amazingly fine sample of cheeses; the entree course (number four) and this together would have been an outstanding meal alone.
Course Six: Bundt cake with rhubarb, mint pesto and chocolate sorbet. Very nicely done, and the mint pesto was excellent.
As I wrapped up my dining, fearing the raw caloric intake I had just accomplished, I reflected on the meal. While I sat for nearly 3 hours, the wait staff was not slow; they executing with the precision of the French-trained boys over at The Victorian just not the chatting and hovering. They refilled promptly, brought out dishes with perfect timing when I was done enjoying the prior course and another stein of beer. I would also add that the pilsner and the dunkelweiss beer on tap were both excellent.
I discovered too late that my decision to skip the wine pairings was unfortunate indeed - the Tanta Anna is one of the premier and original "Wine Houses" in Dusseldorf. A silly mistake of impressions - three of which befell me on this evening's fine dining, as you will note from above.
Nonetheless, the dining was top notch, and truly an authentic locale in the old city. Who knew that a brief two day trip to Germany for some meetings would result in such culinary delights - I only wish I had time to sample the more local and bohemian pubs and restaurants I spied on my walk to and from dinner. Make your way there, and catch the rabbit.
Monday, May 17, 2010
Duesseldorf 2010: The Victorian
On a dreary day in downtown Dusseldorf (say that three times fast), with the unseasonable chill of a Spring rain pouring down, I found myself wandering the district in search of a fine dining experience.
My concierge at the esteemed Breidenbacher Hof (recently renovated), pointed me toward the The Victorian, just a few blocks away amongst the high-end shops that litter the Koenigstalle.
I was seriously dragging from my overnight flight into Germany from Chicago, so I tried to secure an early reservation at this "very nice address" [sic - concierge], but it was not open until 7pm. However, as I browsed the nearby shops, I noted the street-level "cafe" of the traditional building (sandwiched between some posh new shops) was indeed open, so I lounged in the more casual bar and enjoyed a Koenig Pilsner (which advertisement graced the facade of building).
When I was escorted to my table at promptly 7pm, I was treated to two amuse bouche before the main dining experience began (indeed, the first even before my menu arrived).
Amuse #1 was a set of three spoons, consisting of a lobster salad; an asparagus creme brulee; and a gelatinous apple curry. This was a delightful mix of flavors to get the palate jumping.
Amuse #2 was truly a surprise (given I had just ordered the nine-course chef's menu). It consisted of a meat ravioli with apple foam; a poached prawn with bouillabaisse foam; and a poached slice of rabbit with an al dente carrot. This was also very good and a fine start to the evening.
As the sun peeked through the still rain-soaked evening, a last gasp at opening the Spring season made its way into the second floor window booth where I was seated. A charming environ with impeccable service, I felt ready to embark upon this nine course chef's menu paired with wines. While I did not realize it until much later, it is of note that the paired wines' bottle was left at the table for further consumption if the pour was not enough for the course - fabulous and tragic that I have never seen done before; the sommelier was a generous and creative man, who clearly knew how to marry food and wine with aplomb.
Note to my readers: next comes a somewhat laborious list of dishes and wines in the pairing - with tasting notes. Skip to the end for the punchline if you are not a devotee of such things....
Course One - Amberjack grilled atop sashimi and in a tartar; with slices of asparagus, asparagus pudding and asparagus ice cream. While somewhat challenging to eat (the shaved slices of asparagus stuck to the simple slate tray), it was a delicious mix of delicate asparagus flavor (tamer than usual presentation) with the fish. Slight shavings of fresh ginger initially surprised me, but their strong flavor cut through the dish in a pleasing way. I would have not added the passion fruit seeds, but it did not detract from an excellent and creative dish.
Wine One - Hofman Sauvignon Blanc, 2009, Rheinhessen: light, sharp with sweet front. Citrus nose and pale white hue. Very nice.
[As typically occurs, about here they bring out some craft breads and a rich, salted house butter from such and such an organic farm in an attempt to make me fail to even complete my multi-course menu - these were quite good (I sampled, to my doctor's chagrin I am sure) three breads and a few tablespoons of the butter. Amazing but I recommend steering clear unless you go to the a la carte menu and have a definition on the meal.]
Course Two: Poached foie gras with rhubarb base, basil and mint dressing. Torn bread pieces around the sides with some spring peas. Very nice and, as noted below, the "lightest" foie gras I have had. A very ample portion.
Wine Two: M Trignon, 2008 Muscat. The wine was a touch heavy with a smoky sweetness when paired with the dish, as the foie gras was very light. Completely appropriate for a normal seared foie, but a bit heavy handed here.
Course Three: Radish, Beet and Pear soup with Mushrooms. Delicate yet strong-flavored.
Wine Three: Korrell Johanneshof, White Burgundy Johannes K, 2009 Nahe. Sharp with a steel-barrel-chardonnay feeling. Clean finish.
Course Four: "Seawater Jelly"; distilled asparagus foam with creme fraiche and caviar, and shaved green and white asparagus. Very interesting and tasty. Loved it.
Wine Four: Fritz Haag, "Grand Cru", Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling '08. Sommelier claimed "the best of German Rieslings", I found it a bit tart but well bodied. The Sommelier, to note, was excellent and helpful throughout.
Course Five: John Dory with Cauliflower. Very nice, a little overcooked but flavorful - particularly given the cauliflower, which I generally detest.
Wine Five: Jean-Marc Vincent, Les Hautes, Auxey-Duresses 2007. Smoke and rubber. Clean white with blast of industrial terrior. Very interesting wine.
Course Six: Smoked eel wrapped in cucumber topped with pineapple. Very interesting mix of flavors, a nice "bite", but nothing I would want much more of.
Course Seven: Spring Lamb and Octopus, with red pepper stuffed octopus ragu. Lamb served both braised and broiled (the former with more fat, the latter a salted leg meat). The poached octopus was also excellent. While the red pepper is not my favorite of flavorings, the execution and balance was flawless! The crispy baby eggplant quarters and bean hash alongside was also a good match. A triumph of a dish for the main entree.
Wine Seven: Chateau Montus, Masiran 1995. Smooth, well-integrated, strong but not sharp or too "punchy". I immediately asked my local wine broker to seek out a case of this - much recommended.
Course Eight: If you are like me, you have not had Woodruff before. Or even hard of it. And the repeated attempts of a native German waiter to explain what it is are likely more confusing than not. Well, according to the Wikipedia (which the kids all use these days), The Sweet Woodruff is a plant that grows in the woods and has small flowers set on a tender stalk - the plant is perennial, which explains the repeated attempts of the kindly German server to elucidate the seasonal nature of its scent. Anyway, a punch of this Woodruff, with a sorbet of yogurt and fried apricot madelines, sweet honeycomb, raspberries, jellies of woodruff and cantelope, can be quite pleasing, interesting and refreshing!
Wine Eight: Rose Champagne Gosset. A nice, clean rose.
Course Nine: Valrhona Chocolate Bread Pudding with Raspberry gelato
A fine meal, with great service above all.
As I stepped onto the Koenigstrasse, it occurred to me, having had numerous dozens of similar meals in various cities, rarely had I left one sated, but not gluttonously overfilled; tipsy, but not drunk; poorer, but not poor. Danke Schoen, Victorian, Danke Schoen.
My concierge at the esteemed Breidenbacher Hof (recently renovated), pointed me toward the The Victorian, just a few blocks away amongst the high-end shops that litter the Koenigstalle.
I was seriously dragging from my overnight flight into Germany from Chicago, so I tried to secure an early reservation at this "very nice address" [sic - concierge], but it was not open until 7pm. However, as I browsed the nearby shops, I noted the street-level "cafe" of the traditional building (sandwiched between some posh new shops) was indeed open, so I lounged in the more casual bar and enjoyed a Koenig Pilsner (which advertisement graced the facade of building).
When I was escorted to my table at promptly 7pm, I was treated to two amuse bouche before the main dining experience began (indeed, the first even before my menu arrived).
Amuse #1 was a set of three spoons, consisting of a lobster salad; an asparagus creme brulee; and a gelatinous apple curry. This was a delightful mix of flavors to get the palate jumping.
Amuse #2 was truly a surprise (given I had just ordered the nine-course chef's menu). It consisted of a meat ravioli with apple foam; a poached prawn with bouillabaisse foam; and a poached slice of rabbit with an al dente carrot. This was also very good and a fine start to the evening.
As the sun peeked through the still rain-soaked evening, a last gasp at opening the Spring season made its way into the second floor window booth where I was seated. A charming environ with impeccable service, I felt ready to embark upon this nine course chef's menu paired with wines. While I did not realize it until much later, it is of note that the paired wines' bottle was left at the table for further consumption if the pour was not enough for the course - fabulous and tragic that I have never seen done before; the sommelier was a generous and creative man, who clearly knew how to marry food and wine with aplomb.
Note to my readers: next comes a somewhat laborious list of dishes and wines in the pairing - with tasting notes. Skip to the end for the punchline if you are not a devotee of such things....
Course One - Amberjack grilled atop sashimi and in a tartar; with slices of asparagus, asparagus pudding and asparagus ice cream. While somewhat challenging to eat (the shaved slices of asparagus stuck to the simple slate tray), it was a delicious mix of delicate asparagus flavor (tamer than usual presentation) with the fish. Slight shavings of fresh ginger initially surprised me, but their strong flavor cut through the dish in a pleasing way. I would have not added the passion fruit seeds, but it did not detract from an excellent and creative dish.
Wine One - Hofman Sauvignon Blanc, 2009, Rheinhessen: light, sharp with sweet front. Citrus nose and pale white hue. Very nice.
[As typically occurs, about here they bring out some craft breads and a rich, salted house butter from such and such an organic farm in an attempt to make me fail to even complete my multi-course menu - these were quite good (I sampled, to my doctor's chagrin I am sure) three breads and a few tablespoons of the butter. Amazing but I recommend steering clear unless you go to the a la carte menu and have a definition on the meal.]
Course Two: Poached foie gras with rhubarb base, basil and mint dressing. Torn bread pieces around the sides with some spring peas. Very nice and, as noted below, the "lightest" foie gras I have had. A very ample portion.
Wine Two: M Trignon, 2008 Muscat. The wine was a touch heavy with a smoky sweetness when paired with the dish, as the foie gras was very light. Completely appropriate for a normal seared foie, but a bit heavy handed here.
Course Three: Radish, Beet and Pear soup with Mushrooms. Delicate yet strong-flavored.
Wine Three: Korrell Johanneshof, White Burgundy Johannes K, 2009 Nahe. Sharp with a steel-barrel-chardonnay feeling. Clean finish.
Course Four: "Seawater Jelly"; distilled asparagus foam with creme fraiche and caviar, and shaved green and white asparagus. Very interesting and tasty. Loved it.
Wine Four: Fritz Haag, "Grand Cru", Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling '08. Sommelier claimed "the best of German Rieslings", I found it a bit tart but well bodied. The Sommelier, to note, was excellent and helpful throughout.
Course Five: John Dory with Cauliflower. Very nice, a little overcooked but flavorful - particularly given the cauliflower, which I generally detest.
Wine Five: Jean-Marc Vincent, Les Hautes, Auxey-Duresses 2007. Smoke and rubber. Clean white with blast of industrial terrior. Very interesting wine.
Course Six: Smoked eel wrapped in cucumber topped with pineapple. Very interesting mix of flavors, a nice "bite", but nothing I would want much more of.
Course Seven: Spring Lamb and Octopus, with red pepper stuffed octopus ragu. Lamb served both braised and broiled (the former with more fat, the latter a salted leg meat). The poached octopus was also excellent. While the red pepper is not my favorite of flavorings, the execution and balance was flawless! The crispy baby eggplant quarters and bean hash alongside was also a good match. A triumph of a dish for the main entree.
Wine Seven: Chateau Montus, Masiran 1995. Smooth, well-integrated, strong but not sharp or too "punchy". I immediately asked my local wine broker to seek out a case of this - much recommended.
Course Eight: If you are like me, you have not had Woodruff before. Or even hard of it. And the repeated attempts of a native German waiter to explain what it is are likely more confusing than not. Well, according to the Wikipedia (which the kids all use these days), The Sweet Woodruff is a plant that grows in the woods and has small flowers set on a tender stalk - the plant is perennial, which explains the repeated attempts of the kindly German server to elucidate the seasonal nature of its scent. Anyway, a punch of this Woodruff, with a sorbet of yogurt and fried apricot madelines, sweet honeycomb, raspberries, jellies of woodruff and cantelope, can be quite pleasing, interesting and refreshing!
Wine Eight: Rose Champagne Gosset. A nice, clean rose.
Course Nine: Valrhona Chocolate Bread Pudding with Raspberry gelato
A fine meal, with great service above all.
As I stepped onto the Koenigstrasse, it occurred to me, having had numerous dozens of similar meals in various cities, rarely had I left one sated, but not gluttonously overfilled; tipsy, but not drunk; poorer, but not poor. Danke Schoen, Victorian, Danke Schoen.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Chicago 2010: "Bike & Brunch" - Demitasse
In a new series on my ever-evolving (or devolving given my rate of posts?) I am instituting a "bike and brunch" segment for local Chicagoans. I will endeavor to find new and interesting weekend brunch spots using only my bike and keen sense of both direction and smell.
The first location on this new initiative is Demitasse, a coffee shop/diner in the near south loop. I use "diner" with some reserve; the chef and baristas are craft in nature....nothing artificial or frozen here. It is really more of a coffee shop with a great kitchen. Fresh, finely chopped potatoes are sauteed in oil and served aside fresh baked "frittata" (really an unfolded omelet) with various ingredients. I opted for bacon, mushroom and cheddar and it was perfectly cooked and each bite bursting with ingredients. The side of "Italian-style toast" was also delicious - and unsurprising given the Taylor Street locale.
I am rather particular about my coffee, and another reason "diner" is an inappropriate moniker despite the black and white checked floor and the cliche booths and tables. They roast their beans in-house, and the house coffee mixture is dark and strong without being bitter. Importantly, it is also served in mugs that hold the heat and aren't too small or large - just right.
My dining and biking partner sampled the buttermilk pancakes, and while "not as good as Ina's", they were very tasty.
Bike there soon!
Note: American Express is not accepted (but hopefully will be soon).
The first location on this new initiative is Demitasse, a coffee shop/diner in the near south loop. I use "diner" with some reserve; the chef and baristas are craft in nature....nothing artificial or frozen here. It is really more of a coffee shop with a great kitchen. Fresh, finely chopped potatoes are sauteed in oil and served aside fresh baked "frittata" (really an unfolded omelet) with various ingredients. I opted for bacon, mushroom and cheddar and it was perfectly cooked and each bite bursting with ingredients. The side of "Italian-style toast" was also delicious - and unsurprising given the Taylor Street locale.
I am rather particular about my coffee, and another reason "diner" is an inappropriate moniker despite the black and white checked floor and the cliche booths and tables. They roast their beans in-house, and the house coffee mixture is dark and strong without being bitter. Importantly, it is also served in mugs that hold the heat and aren't too small or large - just right.
My dining and biking partner sampled the buttermilk pancakes, and while "not as good as Ina's", they were very tasty.
Bike there soon!
Note: American Express is not accepted (but hopefully will be soon).
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Pittsburgh 2010: A Weekend in Steel City
This past weekend, a group of friends and I descended upon Pittsburgh to visit with two friends who had recently made this hilly land of steel makers and amphibious antarctic birds their home. Officially, the theme of the weekend was "how good it is to be with friends", but as my readers know, my own secret, unofficial theme was "where is the good food in Pittsburgh".
Separately, I had not eaten any meat for nearly a month (on a bet, not for religious or health reasons) and had been desirous of ending my stand-off with bovine, fowl and game with a "Pittsburgh Rare" (blackened outside, bloody center) steak. One might imagine my great surprise when, on the one night we were going out for a nice dinner, I discovered our hosts had booked a restaurant called "Umi". In my initial optimism, I thought that perhaps Umi was set in the picturesque vista of Mount Washington, overlooking the Allegheny or the Monongahela and was Native American for "cow".
Unfortunately, my cognitive dissonance did not pan out into a succulent piece of the Midwest's finest cattle. Umi, located within the hip strip of bars on Ellsworth in the Shadyside neighborhood, is what it truly sounds - a Japanese restaurant focused on sushi.
Despite my misgivings, our party of 13 was seated upstairs near the sushi bar following a few cocktails at neighboring Soba. Luckily, the group was all adventurous and opted to choose the Omakase menu compiled by Mr. Shu, the chef.
As we waited for our first course, we chose some bottles from the sake menu. While the menu was limited, there was a substantial range of choices. Over the next three hours, we sampled the setsugetsubijin junmai ginjo (good but buttery), chokaisan junmai daiginjo (good, with an anise flavor), rihaku nigori (unfiltered and solid), and an excellent yuki no bosha junmai ginjo.
We commenced the Omakase with a salmon, flash seared with sesame oil and sweet soy, which was excellent. Next came a rash of fluke sashimi, topped with a ponzu sauce and citrus, sprinkled with torachi. The yellowtail tartar, made with a touch of garlic, some wasabi and sume (sweet soy), was okay but not great. The fourth dish was an amazing creamy rock shrimp tempura (in the style of Nobu but with more spice). A buttery white tuna was next, and very good. We added a "special course" of Uni and Otoro - the Uni was okay and the Otoro good, but too heavily sauced. The "entree" course was a miso-glazed black cod with citrus sauce - a dense and flavorful piece fish. To end, we had a sashimi sampler, consisting of Otoro, red snapper, salmon, toro and spanish mackerel. We ended the night with a pleasant cashew dessert (which was okay) and a flight of ports and dessert wines. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the experience, particularly if you are looking for a non-steak opportunity in Pittsburghian dining.
Unfortunately for my readers, most of the rest of the long weekend's dining was done at private residences. We did have a good diner breakfast at the local chain Pamela's, which I would recommend for its prompt, unfussy service and greasy food. Note, however, that it is cash only and busy in the morning.
For late night dining, Ritter's seems to be the spot to head at least on the Shadyside/Pitt/CMU side of town. Ritter's serves up a wide array of fried and homestyle foods.
The ladies of the group had a nice light lunch at the Grandview Saloon (while the guys indulged in hot dogs and fries at the Pens / Flyers game, nothing of culinary note there).
We checked out the evening scene extensively over the long weekend, and would recommend both The Harris Grill and Spin on Ellsworth for higher-end cocktails, as well as Cappy's on Walnut for a more "college scene" (local beers and karaoke).
A real find of the weekend was The Inn on Negley, a charming B&B, conveniently located near our friends in Shadyside and steps from both the nicer nightclub/bar scene and the "Madison Avenue of Pittsburgh". Their staff was great, and the second B included real fresh baked breads (muffins, scones, etc) and both sweet and savory breakfast choices.
In summary, the entire weekend was a pleasant surprise culturally, and I would recommend Pittsburgh for both its cultural and sports opportunities, as well as a few gems of dining and nightlife.
Separately, I had not eaten any meat for nearly a month (on a bet, not for religious or health reasons) and had been desirous of ending my stand-off with bovine, fowl and game with a "Pittsburgh Rare" (blackened outside, bloody center) steak. One might imagine my great surprise when, on the one night we were going out for a nice dinner, I discovered our hosts had booked a restaurant called "Umi". In my initial optimism, I thought that perhaps Umi was set in the picturesque vista of Mount Washington, overlooking the Allegheny or the Monongahela and was Native American for "cow".
Unfortunately, my cognitive dissonance did not pan out into a succulent piece of the Midwest's finest cattle. Umi, located within the hip strip of bars on Ellsworth in the Shadyside neighborhood, is what it truly sounds - a Japanese restaurant focused on sushi.
Despite my misgivings, our party of 13 was seated upstairs near the sushi bar following a few cocktails at neighboring Soba. Luckily, the group was all adventurous and opted to choose the Omakase menu compiled by Mr. Shu, the chef.
As we waited for our first course, we chose some bottles from the sake menu. While the menu was limited, there was a substantial range of choices. Over the next three hours, we sampled the setsugetsubijin junmai ginjo (good but buttery), chokaisan junmai daiginjo (good, with an anise flavor), rihaku nigori (unfiltered and solid), and an excellent yuki no bosha junmai ginjo.
We commenced the Omakase with a salmon, flash seared with sesame oil and sweet soy, which was excellent. Next came a rash of fluke sashimi, topped with a ponzu sauce and citrus, sprinkled with torachi. The yellowtail tartar, made with a touch of garlic, some wasabi and sume (sweet soy), was okay but not great. The fourth dish was an amazing creamy rock shrimp tempura (in the style of Nobu but with more spice). A buttery white tuna was next, and very good. We added a "special course" of Uni and Otoro - the Uni was okay and the Otoro good, but too heavily sauced. The "entree" course was a miso-glazed black cod with citrus sauce - a dense and flavorful piece fish. To end, we had a sashimi sampler, consisting of Otoro, red snapper, salmon, toro and spanish mackerel. We ended the night with a pleasant cashew dessert (which was okay) and a flight of ports and dessert wines. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the experience, particularly if you are looking for a non-steak opportunity in Pittsburghian dining.
Unfortunately for my readers, most of the rest of the long weekend's dining was done at private residences. We did have a good diner breakfast at the local chain Pamela's, which I would recommend for its prompt, unfussy service and greasy food. Note, however, that it is cash only and busy in the morning.
For late night dining, Ritter's seems to be the spot to head at least on the Shadyside/Pitt/CMU side of town. Ritter's serves up a wide array of fried and homestyle foods.
The ladies of the group had a nice light lunch at the Grandview Saloon (while the guys indulged in hot dogs and fries at the Pens / Flyers game, nothing of culinary note there).
We checked out the evening scene extensively over the long weekend, and would recommend both The Harris Grill and Spin on Ellsworth for higher-end cocktails, as well as Cappy's on Walnut for a more "college scene" (local beers and karaoke).
A real find of the weekend was The Inn on Negley, a charming B&B, conveniently located near our friends in Shadyside and steps from both the nicer nightclub/bar scene and the "Madison Avenue of Pittsburgh". Their staff was great, and the second B included real fresh baked breads (muffins, scones, etc) and both sweet and savory breakfast choices.
In summary, the entire weekend was a pleasant surprise culturally, and I would recommend Pittsburgh for both its cultural and sports opportunities, as well as a few gems of dining and nightlife.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Chicago 2010: cibo matto (The Wit)
I finally had the occasion to try the oft-recommended new Italian restaurant at The Wit hotel downtown. Set in a sleek space on the second floor, cibo matto evokes a modern feel, but the food is prepared with a centuries-old care reminiscent of the Italian countryside.
Rich wood floors are coupled with comfortable, modern banquettes and chairs in a very open space - crested with a mural overhead. There is also a very nice, versatile private room (glassed in) and a large communal table overlooking the chef's workspace, set next to an antique-looking glass salami and cheese case. The wine cellar is a high point - an architectural feel to a glass U-shaped 4,000 bottle end-of-dining-room cellar.
The impeccably-designed restaurant is also home to a staff of excellent servers and hosts. Well-versed in the menu, drinks and wine - very friendly and attentive.
There is a short but interesting cocktail menu to start your dinner experience - I tried the Monte Verdissima, a manly mixture of Maker's Mark, Green Chartreuse, Benedictine and some lemon juice, and was not disappointed.
The authentic Italian menu balances a mixture of imported and local ingredients and flavors. Given our dining party had some dietary restrictions, the seafood-heavy selections were welcomed, but there were plenty of carnivorous dishes as well.
The bread was surprisingly uninspired for an Italian haute cuisine spot, but the butter was well-salted and soft. For starters, I had the grilled octopus with squid ink, served with a hash of jicama, fava beans and parsley. The squid ink sauce was excellent, and the octopus was grilled to perfection.
For dinner, I had the bucatini with black pepper and carbonara sauce; the two quail eggs were cracked, raw, over the pasta table side and mixed with the fresh hot pasta. The sauce was delightful and the noodles prepared perfectly. We had a side dish of the cheese potatoes, but would not recommend them - too starchy and too light on the sauce.
The evening ended with a round of champagne and salt taffy, gratis in honor of one of our dinner partner's birthday. Overall, while there a few things that could be improved on the menu, it is an excellent venue with great service and fine Italian dining - a must try and good place to meet up downtown.
Friday, December 18, 2009
Chicago 2009: Nightwood
"Guys guys guys" to quote a friend - I am going to stop apologizing as an introduction to each post. I am not keeping up in an efficient way with the blog. I am, however, still eating quite healthily (well, not healthy eating but plenty of eating), so here we go with a few to the end the 2009 vintage of Cress_Travel.
The new spot Nightwood is attracting a diverse bohemian and foodie crowd to the Pilsen neighborhood. However, my arrival on a wet evening a few days before the winter solstice did not start well. There is no valet parking (which is de rigueur for Chicago restaurants). While typically this is not a problem for me, I atypically happened to be driving in from an appointment on the South Side this particular evening. The hostess told us there would be "ample on street parking", which was not the case. But $10 to the local burrito stand manager secured me a spot for 2 hours that was a mere 2 blocks away.
Feeling a bit flustered from the parking adventure, my dining companion and I approached the restaurant with a cautious gait. As we passed the large plate glass windows and saw a large crowd enjoying hearty dishes, further bolstered by a well structured outdoor area with a modernized fire pit (although the weather made it a but untenable that evening), our tune started to change.
The uber-hip waitstaff seated us and reviewed what is a very affordable and nice wine list as well as an inventive cocktail menu. My lady friend sipped on a "Campfire Sidecar" (which had a unique smoked pear flavor as its twist) as I selected a 2006 Burgundy (Xavier Monnot Clos de La Fussiere, Maranges Premier Cru) at the recommendation of the waiter, which was quite nice (light and paired well with the food).
The layout of the restaurant is very interesting - there is dining room seating, bar seating, a bar-style open kitchen seating area in back, and a separate wine room (in addition to the outdoor seating). The bathrooms are also done in a wholly different style (almost a Victorian house style - think a nicer version of the Violet Hour). We sat in the dining room, but I recommend the large open kitchen bar for diners wanting to get the full experience.
A unique bread basket for an evening fine dining establishment, homemade scones with a honey glaze flavor, were an unexpected change of pace to start.
The hand-written daily menu had a lot to choose from, and so we shared four dishes: two appetizers and two mains.
For starters, a well-flavored "torn" burrata (imported from Italy, not house-made) was paired with roasted pears and fennel and a fresh piece of baguette. The burrata itself was smooth and buttery and went well with the pear/fennel combination.
The second appetizer was an excellent ricotta gnocchi with roasted red peppers and cashew butter. The gnocchi was almost "springy" and had a rich red pepper taste (although not overwhelming as is sometimes the case), and the unique cashew butter "paste" was a real hit.
For the mains, we shared an innocuously titled "pork loin" and the duck breast.
To our delight, the pork loin actually was Flintstone-style - an enormous pork loin on the rib bone with a huge swath of belly attached. This was paired with fresh warmed beets and chopped olives. An amazing, eye-catching dish, but not one we could hope to finish without a small army.
The duck breast (while not as much of a shock-and-awe spectacle) had a great marinade, served with baked beans (with bacon of course) and cornbread, garnished with chopped celery and apple. The baked beans "taste right" and had a nice spice to them.
Overall, a fantastic meal but with one serving gaffe - the duck breast was nearly cold when it arrived (assume this was due to a mismatch on cooking time on the pork). So take a cab and try the chef's "bar" . . . or you will be behind the times as this trendy haven flourishes.
Monday, September 7, 2009
Hong Kong 2009: Lamma Island (Rainbow), Dragon-i
Back in Hong Kong for some meetings (business not pleasure this time) but had the occasion to try a few new spots whilst here. Have some downtime due to the time zone difference, so thought I would share (despite not being caught up on my many other drafts, I know).
One thing you must do in Hong Kong is experience the boating culture. Every day (and especially on the weekends) hundreds of brave junks and sailboats test their mettle in the beautiful harbor amidst one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.
A popular destination is Lamma Island, a small fishing village on an island about 30 minutes from Central's public pier. Coasting off in a lazy junk on a sunny day is a great experience, and arriving and open-air restaurants abutting the floating fisherman's huts is doubly so. The fresh fish of every variety sits in tanks waiting for your order. Rainbow (two restaurants on the small cove's boardwalk of probably six total restaurants) seems to be the most popular; it also has a dedicated ferry if you aren't up to renting your own junk. Try the fried calamari, large slices fresh fried in a good batter; the prawns, prepared a variety of ways; and of course the whole fish, served with vegetables and easy to eat - they have "mostly" deboned it for you.
For a markedly different experience, try the nightclub-cum-restaurant Dragon-i just above Lan Kwai Fong in Central. With both indoor and outdoor dining, the "all you can eat Dim Sum" lunch, at about USD$20 per person, is a good value and an amazing alternative to fast food. The service is swift, and the dishes seems to start arriving as soon as your ordr them. Not a buffet-type all-you-can-eat, this is a fresh cooked (steamed, fried or seared depending on the chosen dumplings) option for you to experience good authentic dim sum gluttony. I would say it does not measure up to the Princess Garden in London or Luk Yu Tea House (just a few blocks away from Dragon-i, I think I noted in my last journal from Hong Kong) in pure quality, but has a good "scene" and is definitely an acceptable option for authentic cuisine lovers.
One thing you must do in Hong Kong is experience the boating culture. Every day (and especially on the weekends) hundreds of brave junks and sailboats test their mettle in the beautiful harbor amidst one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.
A popular destination is Lamma Island, a small fishing village on an island about 30 minutes from Central's public pier. Coasting off in a lazy junk on a sunny day is a great experience, and arriving and open-air restaurants abutting the floating fisherman's huts is doubly so. The fresh fish of every variety sits in tanks waiting for your order. Rainbow (two restaurants on the small cove's boardwalk of probably six total restaurants) seems to be the most popular; it also has a dedicated ferry if you aren't up to renting your own junk. Try the fried calamari, large slices fresh fried in a good batter; the prawns, prepared a variety of ways; and of course the whole fish, served with vegetables and easy to eat - they have "mostly" deboned it for you.
For a markedly different experience, try the nightclub-cum-restaurant Dragon-i just above Lan Kwai Fong in Central. With both indoor and outdoor dining, the "all you can eat Dim Sum" lunch, at about USD$20 per person, is a good value and an amazing alternative to fast food. The service is swift, and the dishes seems to start arriving as soon as your ordr them. Not a buffet-type all-you-can-eat, this is a fresh cooked (steamed, fried or seared depending on the chosen dumplings) option for you to experience good authentic dim sum gluttony. I would say it does not measure up to the Princess Garden in London or Luk Yu Tea House (just a few blocks away from Dragon-i, I think I noted in my last journal from Hong Kong) in pure quality, but has a good "scene" and is definitely an acceptable option for authentic cuisine lovers.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Corfu 2009: Part 1
As I gaze out upon the Albanian coast from my perch in a private villa I have secured for a week's holiday in the mountains of Northeastern Corfu, I reflect on the volumes of unpublished posts that await my avid followers and shudder. This is the first meaningful break I have taken since my sojourn in Hong Kong at the turn of the year (and from which, quite painfully still have a few notable unpublished notes pending). Fear not, gentle reader! This holiday is one of pure relaxation, and should give me ample time to do some much-needed catch-up.
But before I get to that, let's talk Greece. I have spent time in Athens, hiked the Vikos Gorge and Mount Olympus in my younger years, but had never experienced the Greek Isles before Monday.
In the weakened economy, my gal and I decided to take a vacation of extended length to capitalize on the cheap flights and unreserved rooms across the globe. But why Corfu?, one might ask. This isle known for its wide range of visitors; from the backpacking denizens of the Pink Palace to the private-jet arrivals of British Royals and Russian Oligarchs? Does it hold culinary and travel delights away from the cheesy tourist scene of Corfu Town, over populated with Pizza Hut and "real Greek and English food" combo cafeteria?
The answer is a simple "yes" but requires a bit more work. In my search for a luxurious yet affordable ("ITE") spot, I read a review of The Rou Estate (www.rouestate.co.uk - apologies for the lack of imbedded link but trying, for the sake of efficient posting for those thirsty for my modest suggestions, to use this new-fangled iPhone). This little village, reclaimed from the Greek wilderness by some budding entrepreneurs, consists of 10 restored stone villas, formerly the residences of a forgotten mountain town, complete with a town square, a granary (now a massage parlour) and a pool at the precipice of the mountain face (well, okay, that's new). Each of the villas (ranging from 2 - 4 bedrooms all with ensuite bathrooms) is beautifully restored, matching cool stone walls/floors and the smaller doorways/windows of the old homestead with Miele ranges/dishwashers and modern cabinetry and bathroom fixtures. Each villa has its own plunge pool (also new) with a spectacular view of the mountainside, the ocean and the mountainous Albanian coast.
What you won't find: a concierge, bellmen, roomservice, etc. A maid comes once daily, and upon arrival your fridge and hamper will be fully stocked with several bottles of (quite nice) local wines, feta cheese, ham, fresh bread, local olive oil & vinegar, as well as some more "western" goods (chips, cookies, crackers). There is also a few sets of dried pasta and enough produce to make a passable putanesca sauce and finish with local fruits for dessert.
This all makes you feel much more like you are returning to your private home in a small mountain community than going to a vacation villa. I would note that the drive through the mountains can be quite harrowing, on a "mostly unmade" set of switchbacks up from the main road, but once you arrive you feel like you have come to a truly unique, special home.
More on dining, boating and shopping in this area to come. Stay tuned.
But before I get to that, let's talk Greece. I have spent time in Athens, hiked the Vikos Gorge and Mount Olympus in my younger years, but had never experienced the Greek Isles before Monday.
In the weakened economy, my gal and I decided to take a vacation of extended length to capitalize on the cheap flights and unreserved rooms across the globe. But why Corfu?, one might ask. This isle known for its wide range of visitors; from the backpacking denizens of the Pink Palace to the private-jet arrivals of British Royals and Russian Oligarchs? Does it hold culinary and travel delights away from the cheesy tourist scene of Corfu Town, over populated with Pizza Hut and "real Greek and English food" combo cafeteria?
The answer is a simple "yes" but requires a bit more work. In my search for a luxurious yet affordable ("ITE") spot, I read a review of The Rou Estate (www.rouestate.co.uk - apologies for the lack of imbedded link but trying, for the sake of efficient posting for those thirsty for my modest suggestions, to use this new-fangled iPhone). This little village, reclaimed from the Greek wilderness by some budding entrepreneurs, consists of 10 restored stone villas, formerly the residences of a forgotten mountain town, complete with a town square, a granary (now a massage parlour) and a pool at the precipice of the mountain face (well, okay, that's new). Each of the villas (ranging from 2 - 4 bedrooms all with ensuite bathrooms) is beautifully restored, matching cool stone walls/floors and the smaller doorways/windows of the old homestead with Miele ranges/dishwashers and modern cabinetry and bathroom fixtures. Each villa has its own plunge pool (also new) with a spectacular view of the mountainside, the ocean and the mountainous Albanian coast.
What you won't find: a concierge, bellmen, roomservice, etc. A maid comes once daily, and upon arrival your fridge and hamper will be fully stocked with several bottles of (quite nice) local wines, feta cheese, ham, fresh bread, local olive oil & vinegar, as well as some more "western" goods (chips, cookies, crackers). There is also a few sets of dried pasta and enough produce to make a passable putanesca sauce and finish with local fruits for dessert.
This all makes you feel much more like you are returning to your private home in a small mountain community than going to a vacation villa. I would note that the drive through the mountains can be quite harrowing, on a "mostly unmade" set of switchbacks up from the main road, but once you arrive you feel like you have come to a truly unique, special home.
More on dining, boating and shopping in this area to come. Stay tuned.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Virginia Beach 2009: 456 Fish
A brief update on a nice fish spot I found in my recent travels as I work to slog through my seemingly unending backlog of posts to put out there.
I had travelled to Norfolk, Virginia for an event on an aircraft carrier, which was pretty cool, but the food left something to be desired, so we retired to the trendy block of Norfolk that sports a number of new restaurants and clubs.
We entered the clean, classic interior of 456 Fish (thus named for its address at 456 Granby Street) to, well, have some good fish.
The hour was late but luckily Norfolk seems to have a bit of a late evening scene, so the kitchen was open until 11pm. The restaurant's decor was reminiscent of an older club-style lounge, evoking a newly redo art deco steakhouse more than a well-recommended fish joint.
The short wine list was quite well done, with something for everyone - a good variety of all varietals and regions. We settled on a white (for the fish) despite my protestation that we should opt for a lighter red, but I was overruled. The '07 Flora Springs Soliloquy did the job quite nicely, however.
I opted for the Lobster Spring Rolls, which were tasty and more like egg rolls, with a lot of cabbage and some other vegetables stuffed in with the morsels of lobster. They were a good portion and served with a decent sweet and sour dipping sauce with chili flakes.
I also sampled the Fried Calamari, which lived up to the "award winning" moniker on the menu. Done with corn meal and lightly fried, served with a pesto mayonnaise and a marinara sauce, these two appetizers were both very good ways to start our late night meal.
At the recommendation of the waiter, I chose the Grouper for my main (the special that evening). This dish reminded me why I do like white fish - it was meaty, light flavored and served over plantains and sauteed spinach. An Italian-style tomato sauce complemented the subtle flavor of the fish nicely.
Overall, when we left the restaurant we were very pleased, and although it was late felt very well-served. A prime place to try in this up and coming section of the city.
I had travelled to Norfolk, Virginia for an event on an aircraft carrier, which was pretty cool, but the food left something to be desired, so we retired to the trendy block of Norfolk that sports a number of new restaurants and clubs.
We entered the clean, classic interior of 456 Fish (thus named for its address at 456 Granby Street) to, well, have some good fish.
The hour was late but luckily Norfolk seems to have a bit of a late evening scene, so the kitchen was open until 11pm. The restaurant's decor was reminiscent of an older club-style lounge, evoking a newly redo art deco steakhouse more than a well-recommended fish joint.
The short wine list was quite well done, with something for everyone - a good variety of all varietals and regions. We settled on a white (for the fish) despite my protestation that we should opt for a lighter red, but I was overruled. The '07 Flora Springs Soliloquy did the job quite nicely, however.
I opted for the Lobster Spring Rolls, which were tasty and more like egg rolls, with a lot of cabbage and some other vegetables stuffed in with the morsels of lobster. They were a good portion and served with a decent sweet and sour dipping sauce with chili flakes.
I also sampled the Fried Calamari, which lived up to the "award winning" moniker on the menu. Done with corn meal and lightly fried, served with a pesto mayonnaise and a marinara sauce, these two appetizers were both very good ways to start our late night meal.
At the recommendation of the waiter, I chose the Grouper for my main (the special that evening). This dish reminded me why I do like white fish - it was meaty, light flavored and served over plantains and sauteed spinach. An Italian-style tomato sauce complemented the subtle flavor of the fish nicely.
Overall, when we left the restaurant we were very pleased, and although it was late felt very well-served. A prime place to try in this up and coming section of the city.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Chicago 2009: Japonais
As usual, I am catching up on my enormous backlog and places from my past. I was privileged enough to enjoy Japonais in Chicago the first week it opened; since then, I have hosted many a client, friend and even several parties at the reclaimed loft space on the river.
This Chicago restaurant has remained a perennial "hot spot", and kept the quality high. This is one of those rare restaurants that carves out a niche of its own and becomes an "old standby". Trendy, good food seems to persist at this River North gem - if you haven't been, you should go today.
When you do enter the half club / half restaurant in Summer, make sure you reserve an outdoor table, either on the terrace in front of the restaurant, or downstairs on the river - a unique spot in the city.
After many meals at this Japanese "steakhouse", I can recommend a number of dishes that constitute a perfect meal.
Begin with the lobster spring roll - crispy and hot, rich chunks of lobster wrapped in a thin pastry and salted lightly with a side of mango salsa are a delight to the senses. Perhaps a richer dish than what one envisions when Japanese cusine comes to mind, but perfection in a hot appetizer.
My favorite speciality of the house from the sushi bar is the Maguro Moriwase - two thick slices of Toro, Otoro and Chu-Toro, succulent parts of the Tuna that are of the highest quality in the Midwest.
Other sushi dishes are well-done and taste as if you were at the fish market in Tokyo - I don't know the secret, but the purveyors of Japonais' seafood are clearly artisans. Other favorites include barbeque pork "manju buns" and various gyoza.
For entrees, the Samuri Tuna Steak and Le Quack Japonais (Roast Duck) are excellent choices. If you make it further than this, you should look to a complete and creative dessert menu, including the signature "donuts with green tea semifreddo", a rich and subtle dish that caps off a perfect meal.
Hopefully, you will find a time to host your friends and family at the best Japanese Steakhouse in the Midwest.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
London 2009: Locanda Ottoemezzo
After a long day of fine beer at the Ladbroke Arms, my dining companion and I stumbled over to Kensington Square to experience what she called the "best trendy authentic Italian in London".
Upon entering Locanda Ottomezzo, one is struck by the Fellini-motivated theme - old-school movie posters, many with the "8 1/2" (yes, that's what Ottomezzo means, I think). The restaurant even has its own movie poster, highlighting the intimate, small dining room with red stucco walls.
In addition to the exclusively Italian staff, who speaks a very sexy broken English, the dinner also includes a reasonably-priced Italian wine list (we chose a Pinot Nero from Niedermayr of the 2004 vintage, which needed some decanting but was smooth and delectable).
After we ordered our entrees, we gorged on fresh bread with LO's own olive oil - peppery but smooth with no aftertaste. We started with a fresh mozzarella and ripe tomatoes (housemade and silky - the cheese, not the tomatoes, silly) - a very well-done traditional Italian dish.
The speciality of the house (which my companion ordered) was the risotto with mushrooms. What makes this simple dish the house favorite is that fact that is it scooped table side from a massive Parmesan wheel - exquisite presentation and flavor to match.
I am a sucker for fresh noodles and the homemade papardelle fit the bill. The realization that this was a true fine Italian restaurant was the veal ragout - the sauce was surprisingly light; an elegant sauce
We were stuffed from our long day of imbibing both London's fine drafts and subtle Italian dishes, so we skipped desert, but were treated to light, homemade biscotti as we finished our wine.
Overall, a perfect Italian respite in the heart of a nice London neighborhood. Even if I used "homemade" too many times in the review, it exemplifies this fine little restaurant tucked away in the Kensington neighborhood.
Upon entering Locanda Ottomezzo, one is struck by the Fellini-motivated theme - old-school movie posters, many with the "8 1/2" (yes, that's what Ottomezzo means, I think). The restaurant even has its own movie poster, highlighting the intimate, small dining room with red stucco walls.
In addition to the exclusively Italian staff, who speaks a very sexy broken English, the dinner also includes a reasonably-priced Italian wine list (we chose a Pinot Nero from Niedermayr of the 2004 vintage, which needed some decanting but was smooth and delectable).
After we ordered our entrees, we gorged on fresh bread with LO's own olive oil - peppery but smooth with no aftertaste. We started with a fresh mozzarella and ripe tomatoes (housemade and silky - the cheese, not the tomatoes, silly) - a very well-done traditional Italian dish.
The speciality of the house (which my companion ordered) was the risotto with mushrooms. What makes this simple dish the house favorite is that fact that is it scooped table side from a massive Parmesan wheel - exquisite presentation and flavor to match.
I am a sucker for fresh noodles and the homemade papardelle fit the bill. The realization that this was a true fine Italian restaurant was the veal ragout - the sauce was surprisingly light; an elegant sauce
We were stuffed from our long day of imbibing both London's fine drafts and subtle Italian dishes, so we skipped desert, but were treated to light, homemade biscotti as we finished our wine.
Overall, a perfect Italian respite in the heart of a nice London neighborhood. Even if I used "homemade" too many times in the review, it exemplifies this fine little restaurant tucked away in the Kensington neighborhood.
London 2009: Ladbroke Arms
Dear reader, I am going to slip back in to my terrible habit of writing some of my au courant experiences; I wish I could wring the time out of my schedule to slog through the dozens of worthy draft posts I have not given due attention. However, my passion for my recent holiday weekend in London drives me to share what was just about a perfect weekend.
So, I will start with what was an auspicious Thursday in London's Notting Hill neighborhood. I had landed early that morning on the overnight flight; a few hours of sleep and a desire to get on London time led me to one of my favorite pubs in this fine city.
I went with two friends to the Ladbroke Arms, a venerable gastro-pub just off the Holland Park Road (I love how Britons use "the" in front of most roads). This was not my first visit to the Ladbroke Arms, but it had been several years. Nestled away from the traffic off a street called Ladbroke Road off a street called Ladbroke Court off a street called Ladbroke something across from a police station (confusing, right?) is a well laid out pub with a front garden area. Run by a team of French folks, they have brought truly good food to the pub experience.
More surprising than the anticipated French-style service (they mostly ignore Americans wearing ironic t-shirts) was the fact that, waiting for our third friend to arrive, I got a sunburn (you may ask, do they have those in London?) sipping London Pride (served warm-ish, of course) on the patio.
Even more surprising than all of this is the fact that they served a beautiful salad with fresh cooked rare salmon and frites.
I don't have a lot more to say than this pub gives you the real feel of the London experience without having to suffer through the terrible food that usually accompanies the experience. As a friend I once had recommended to the pub said, the Ladbroke had me "cradled in its Arms", and I couldn't think of a better place to start four perfect days in London with weather more appropriate to the South of France than London in the waning days of May. Go there.
So, I will start with what was an auspicious Thursday in London's Notting Hill neighborhood. I had landed early that morning on the overnight flight; a few hours of sleep and a desire to get on London time led me to one of my favorite pubs in this fine city.
I went with two friends to the Ladbroke Arms, a venerable gastro-pub just off the Holland Park Road (I love how Britons use "the" in front of most roads). This was not my first visit to the Ladbroke Arms, but it had been several years. Nestled away from the traffic off a street called Ladbroke Road off a street called Ladbroke Court off a street called Ladbroke something across from a police station (confusing, right?) is a well laid out pub with a front garden area. Run by a team of French folks, they have brought truly good food to the pub experience.
More surprising than the anticipated French-style service (they mostly ignore Americans wearing ironic t-shirts) was the fact that, waiting for our third friend to arrive, I got a sunburn (you may ask, do they have those in London?) sipping London Pride (served warm-ish, of course) on the patio.
Even more surprising than all of this is the fact that they served a beautiful salad with fresh cooked rare salmon and frites.
I don't have a lot more to say than this pub gives you the real feel of the London experience without having to suffer through the terrible food that usually accompanies the experience. As a friend I once had recommended to the pub said, the Ladbroke had me "cradled in its Arms", and I couldn't think of a better place to start four perfect days in London with weather more appropriate to the South of France than London in the waning days of May. Go there.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Houston 2009: Tony's
I implore my readers to forgive me for forgoing the updates from recent jaunts to New York and Montreal to introduce you to an amazing location for fine dining in Houston, Texas.
As the sommelier tantalized us with his suggestions, we commiserated over some of the wines not available - sold out - as it would seem they had given up my first few choices of great juices to Texas' finest diners earlier in the year. Despite this inital setback, the talented wine steward made alternative suggestions for some amazing wines, none of which I had ever sampled before. Our party of four indulged in fine vintages from France and Napa: a Chateau Dauzac ('99 Margaux, not the best year, but softened to near perfection at its tenth anniversary); Ghost Block ('06 Napa Cab) with a unique cinnamon taste; and Hollywood & Vine, 2480 ('06 Napa Cab) with a heartier, tannic blend that stood perfectly with our main courses.
Before we ordered, the fine Texan gentleman I had the pleasure of dining with arranged for Tony himself to visit our table. Tony is a consummate restaurateur, having "kept his hands dirty" in the kitchen over a 45-year career to ensure that the menu and ingredients were true to his Italian heritage - farm ripened produce, house-made pastas, and nouveau cuisine entrees that married the "old world" with inventive new preparations and sauces.
With Tony's sage recommendations at hand, we attacked the menus our attentive servers appeared with. Favorites rarely seen in Texas (or outside of Italy), such as zucchini blossoms, were scattered amongst more traditional comfort foods from Texas - steaks and chops, fresh fish from the gulf, and lightly fried appetizers.
After we ordered, one of Tony's suggestions immediately came as an amuse bouche - a perfectly prepared morsel of foie gras that was simmered in a reduction evoking sharp cherry and salt flavors, tantalizing our taste buds for what was to come.
All of our party opted to start with the unique (for America) zucchini blossom stuffed with lobster and crab meat, lightly fried and delicate in its preparation. It was "Texas sized" compared to my expectation, but excellent.
As we struggled to decide between the fresh pastas and the heartier dishes for our mains, our waiter suggested an intermezzo course that sampled the house-made pastas and sauces, which we graciously accepted. Tony would choose a selection for us to share.
When the pastas arrived, we were delighted with a plate of three tastes: ravioli "amulote" with spinach & cream; Triangoli ravioli stuffed with veal in a light but rich sauce; and Papardelle perfectly constructed and slathered in Tony's own bolognese sauce (a bit salty but very tasty).
For my entree, I selected the bone-in rib eye (having been "dared" by the waiter that it was the "best steak in Texas"). This truly was a memorable steak: flavorful, perfectly cooked, and served with flash fried green beans and duck-fat roasted new potatoes.
Veritably stuffed from our multi-course fine dining experience, we passed on dessert but were treated to the signature strawberry tree (the house specialty even the Secret Service indulged in); fresh strawberries and meringues with a powdered sugar dipping bowl.
The only real negatives at Tony's are aesthetic - the space has a campy feel with a 1980's gauche decor; large monuments to bad sculpture and a too-loud piano man mar the otherwise amazing experience. However, with good company and excellent service, it is easy to look past the decor and acoustics at this downtown "see and be seen eatery".
All in all, an amazing dining experience and from here on out, my top recommendation for anyone heading south to Texas.
Rarely considered a bastion of fine dining, Houston rises early to summer, and at the end of my first day in 90-degree heat in 2009, I was treated to the best this West Texas city has to offer. I felt it incumbent upon me to make you aware post-haste of the potential captured in this city's long-standing fine dining establishment, Tony's.
While I would have chosen a bit more subtle and nuanced decor, as I entered Tony's traditional "old school" Italian spot I realized I was in for a treat. For starters, the surreal bar area sported no less than three Secret Service agents dipping fresh strawberries in powdered sugar, as if at the end of a long journey of dining. I later discovered they were there to protect the evening of the current and past governors of Texas (both were present at the table next to us). Such Southern, nay, Texan (there is a substantial difference) royalty would only dine in the "best of the best", I figured.As the sommelier tantalized us with his suggestions, we commiserated over some of the wines not available - sold out - as it would seem they had given up my first few choices of great juices to Texas' finest diners earlier in the year. Despite this inital setback, the talented wine steward made alternative suggestions for some amazing wines, none of which I had ever sampled before. Our party of four indulged in fine vintages from France and Napa: a Chateau Dauzac ('99 Margaux, not the best year, but softened to near perfection at its tenth anniversary); Ghost Block ('06 Napa Cab) with a unique cinnamon taste; and Hollywood & Vine, 2480 ('06 Napa Cab) with a heartier, tannic blend that stood perfectly with our main courses.
Before we ordered, the fine Texan gentleman I had the pleasure of dining with arranged for Tony himself to visit our table. Tony is a consummate restaurateur, having "kept his hands dirty" in the kitchen over a 45-year career to ensure that the menu and ingredients were true to his Italian heritage - farm ripened produce, house-made pastas, and nouveau cuisine entrees that married the "old world" with inventive new preparations and sauces.
With Tony's sage recommendations at hand, we attacked the menus our attentive servers appeared with. Favorites rarely seen in Texas (or outside of Italy), such as zucchini blossoms, were scattered amongst more traditional comfort foods from Texas - steaks and chops, fresh fish from the gulf, and lightly fried appetizers.
After we ordered, one of Tony's suggestions immediately came as an amuse bouche - a perfectly prepared morsel of foie gras that was simmered in a reduction evoking sharp cherry and salt flavors, tantalizing our taste buds for what was to come.
All of our party opted to start with the unique (for America) zucchini blossom stuffed with lobster and crab meat, lightly fried and delicate in its preparation. It was "Texas sized" compared to my expectation, but excellent.
As we struggled to decide between the fresh pastas and the heartier dishes for our mains, our waiter suggested an intermezzo course that sampled the house-made pastas and sauces, which we graciously accepted. Tony would choose a selection for us to share.
When the pastas arrived, we were delighted with a plate of three tastes: ravioli "amulote" with spinach & cream; Triangoli ravioli stuffed with veal in a light but rich sauce; and Papardelle perfectly constructed and slathered in Tony's own bolognese sauce (a bit salty but very tasty).
For my entree, I selected the bone-in rib eye (having been "dared" by the waiter that it was the "best steak in Texas"). This truly was a memorable steak: flavorful, perfectly cooked, and served with flash fried green beans and duck-fat roasted new potatoes.
Veritably stuffed from our multi-course fine dining experience, we passed on dessert but were treated to the signature strawberry tree (the house specialty even the Secret Service indulged in); fresh strawberries and meringues with a powdered sugar dipping bowl.
The only real negatives at Tony's are aesthetic - the space has a campy feel with a 1980's gauche decor; large monuments to bad sculpture and a too-loud piano man mar the otherwise amazing experience. However, with good company and excellent service, it is easy to look past the decor and acoustics at this downtown "see and be seen eatery".
All in all, an amazing dining experience and from here on out, my top recommendation for anyone heading south to Texas.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Musings
I have not written much about myself or my personal perspectives other than how they are reflected in my writing about food and travel. Today I just feel like noting that a lot of times, due to my schedule, I find it impossible to muster the creative energies to attack the backlog of posts I owe to my readers. I hope this changes - I am excited about the line-up to come: New York, Montreal, London and Minneapolis are on the docket!
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Chicago 2009: Ina's
I awoke early on what promised to be the first real "summer" day in Chicago. The sun was bright and I gathered my paper and a new book, and headed to grab a coffee and some breakfast.
Unfortunately, a heavy summer storm emerged and I retreated back into my house to do some chores. The rain passed quickly, and while the sky remained dim it was a warm day. I wandered out to my favorite local breakfast place, Ina's. Ina Pinkey's accolades are numerous and Chicagoland diners have been titillated since she was crowned the "breakfast queen" several decades ago.
The charm of this West Loop institution is like a country homestead in the city. One of the unique trademark salt-and-pepper shakers sits on each table. The staff is friendly and efficient, and nice touches like Ina's signature baked goods and a full carafe of coffee on each table appear within seconds of arrival. I should note that while I have been to Ina's on dozens and dozens of occasions for breakfast, brunch and lunch, I have never been there for dinner, despite the award-winning fried chicken and other good homestyle options.
So, I hope you don't mind if I focus on the sweet and savory breakfast options for this post. Whether it is the signature dishes like "Heavenly Hots" (thin pancakes with hot fruit compote), Scrapple or Frittata; the fine omelets and other baked goods; or the fresh made soups, salads and sandwiches - Ina and her kitchen turn out wonderful, fresh (and largely organic) treats. The coffee is strong and good, and all-natural, fresh-squeezed orange, tomato, grapefruit and other juices are on hand.
It is the perfect spot for a casual family gathering, an informal business luncheon, or even a quiet spot to read a newspaper or a book. This morning, I had the pleasure of sampling the oatmeal pancakes with blueberries and fresh syrup while I read an exceptional newly published tome (The Whole Five Feet, but Christopher Beha). The perfect start to a weekend.
Unfortunately, a heavy summer storm emerged and I retreated back into my house to do some chores. The rain passed quickly, and while the sky remained dim it was a warm day. I wandered out to my favorite local breakfast place, Ina's. Ina Pinkey's accolades are numerous and Chicagoland diners have been titillated since she was crowned the "breakfast queen" several decades ago.
The charm of this West Loop institution is like a country homestead in the city. One of the unique trademark salt-and-pepper shakers sits on each table. The staff is friendly and efficient, and nice touches like Ina's signature baked goods and a full carafe of coffee on each table appear within seconds of arrival. I should note that while I have been to Ina's on dozens and dozens of occasions for breakfast, brunch and lunch, I have never been there for dinner, despite the award-winning fried chicken and other good homestyle options.
So, I hope you don't mind if I focus on the sweet and savory breakfast options for this post. Whether it is the signature dishes like "Heavenly Hots" (thin pancakes with hot fruit compote), Scrapple or Frittata; the fine omelets and other baked goods; or the fresh made soups, salads and sandwiches - Ina and her kitchen turn out wonderful, fresh (and largely organic) treats. The coffee is strong and good, and all-natural, fresh-squeezed orange, tomato, grapefruit and other juices are on hand.
It is the perfect spot for a casual family gathering, an informal business luncheon, or even a quiet spot to read a newspaper or a book. This morning, I had the pleasure of sampling the oatmeal pancakes with blueberries and fresh syrup while I read an exceptional newly published tome (The Whole Five Feet, but Christopher Beha). The perfect start to a weekend.
Monday, April 13, 2009
Chicago 2009: Goose Island Clybourn Heritage Collection Part 1 of 2
Goose Island set out to do something no other brewmaster could accomplish - make a set of craft beers to compete with wines. Ones that could be paired with foods. And titilate the tastes of ladies.
The first shot the Halls and their crew took at this were the popular Matilda, Bourbon County Stout, Pere Jacque, and Demolition about two years ago. This year, they released the evolution of this concept with four new beers: a new Demolition, Naughty Goose, Juliet and Sophia.
These four evoke flavors of their intended opponents. For example, the Naughty Goose is the beer equivalent of a Pinot Noir, whilst the new Demolition is a competitor for a heady white. I sampled two of the four while waiting for the Cubs' home opener to start after an icy rain delay in early April.
The Naughty Goose is a dead ringer for a pinot. Light but solid "American Brown Ale" served in a pint glass, backed with the rest of the tall 22 ounce (excuse me, "1 Pint 6 Fluid Ounces", according to the bottle). The bottle is meant to be drank within a half year of initial bottling. The beer is indulgent while light for a brown ale, with some hint of chocolate. Very good, very tasty.
The bomber of Demolition was a "Belgian Style Golden", with some bitterness and a heavy body for a golden ale. Some honey citrus flavour pares down the bitterness, and my British female drinking companion preferred this to the Naughty Goose.
More to come when Juliet and Sophia are released later this month. . . . .
The first shot the Halls and their crew took at this were the popular Matilda, Bourbon County Stout, Pere Jacque, and Demolition about two years ago. This year, they released the evolution of this concept with four new beers: a new Demolition, Naughty Goose, Juliet and Sophia.
These four evoke flavors of their intended opponents. For example, the Naughty Goose is the beer equivalent of a Pinot Noir, whilst the new Demolition is a competitor for a heady white. I sampled two of the four while waiting for the Cubs' home opener to start after an icy rain delay in early April.
The Naughty Goose is a dead ringer for a pinot. Light but solid "American Brown Ale" served in a pint glass, backed with the rest of the tall 22 ounce (excuse me, "1 Pint 6 Fluid Ounces", according to the bottle). The bottle is meant to be drank within a half year of initial bottling. The beer is indulgent while light for a brown ale, with some hint of chocolate. Very good, very tasty.
The bomber of Demolition was a "Belgian Style Golden", with some bitterness and a heavy body for a golden ale. Some honey citrus flavour pares down the bitterness, and my British female drinking companion preferred this to the Naughty Goose.
More to come when Juliet and Sophia are released later this month. . . . .
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Chicago 2009: Branch 27
It was with some excitement that I accepted an invitation to dine with friends last week at Branch 27, a new spot by some trendy-dining heavyweights (backers of Rockit, chef from North Pond). All of the first-on-the-scene publications, bloggers, daily updates had heralded its opening. "Love the space, love the food, another must try from veterans, etc".
I will concur that the space is a nice one. Located in the former 27th Ward Library space, the decor is understated and comfortable. A decent sized bar area unfolds into the larger two-tier dining room and finally into a unique skylight/atrium room. The tables were full, but the spacing was adequate and one did not feel as "crammed in" as would be typical at such a restaurant.
But, dear readers, I am sorry to say that the big names behind this new spot focused more on the PR than on the food and service.
Granted, I was there in the first week of opening, so I will give some wide berth for errors and mistakes in service. However, before we even began dining, the combination of too-infrequent wait service (one of our party of four always had an empty glass) and too-frequent bus service (many of us lost plates / utensils if they were left idle for a second) was disappointing. Too, several of the beers on the well-compiled beer list were unavailable; which seems a bit of a gaff for an American bistro (I could live with one beer being "sold out", but 3 or 4?).
On the subject of food, I am of two minds. On the one hand, the PR around this opening is painstaking to differentiate the spot in its simplicity / lack of "fussy" food. As such, "normal" dishes that might not excite me relative to the latest and greatest the culinary scene in Chicago has to offer should be forgiven or handicapped. However, these "normal" dishes tried to evoke some creative flair: mozzarella egg roll (served lukewarm and flavorless), mussels & frites in interesting dishware (again, lukewarm and less than exciting to the palette), a highly recommended half chicken (very fatty, low-grade chicken and cold brussel sprouts). The flatbreads with exotic toppings were a highlight of the kitchen's talent, but the last two pieces were whisked away as entrees arrived without regard for us wanting to finish.
So, I may try it again to see if the visit was premature on the first open-to-the-public Saturday, but with my long list of new spots to try, I was disappointed that this restaurant was so over-hyped by the literati of the food world.
I will concur that the space is a nice one. Located in the former 27th Ward Library space, the decor is understated and comfortable. A decent sized bar area unfolds into the larger two-tier dining room and finally into a unique skylight/atrium room. The tables were full, but the spacing was adequate and one did not feel as "crammed in" as would be typical at such a restaurant.
But, dear readers, I am sorry to say that the big names behind this new spot focused more on the PR than on the food and service.
Granted, I was there in the first week of opening, so I will give some wide berth for errors and mistakes in service. However, before we even began dining, the combination of too-infrequent wait service (one of our party of four always had an empty glass) and too-frequent bus service (many of us lost plates / utensils if they were left idle for a second) was disappointing. Too, several of the beers on the well-compiled beer list were unavailable; which seems a bit of a gaff for an American bistro (I could live with one beer being "sold out", but 3 or 4?).
On the subject of food, I am of two minds. On the one hand, the PR around this opening is painstaking to differentiate the spot in its simplicity / lack of "fussy" food. As such, "normal" dishes that might not excite me relative to the latest and greatest the culinary scene in Chicago has to offer should be forgiven or handicapped. However, these "normal" dishes tried to evoke some creative flair: mozzarella egg roll (served lukewarm and flavorless), mussels & frites in interesting dishware (again, lukewarm and less than exciting to the palette), a highly recommended half chicken (very fatty, low-grade chicken and cold brussel sprouts). The flatbreads with exotic toppings were a highlight of the kitchen's talent, but the last two pieces were whisked away as entrees arrived without regard for us wanting to finish.
So, I may try it again to see if the visit was premature on the first open-to-the-public Saturday, but with my long list of new spots to try, I was disappointed that this restaurant was so over-hyped by the literati of the food world.
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