The Grocery Bistro opened a few weeks ago in a star-crossed spot near Washington and Halsted, which has played home to fast food, sushi and offices over the last dozen years I have lived in the West Loop. For the sake of anyone who enjoys fine food and a convivial setting, let's hope that this is the last change we see for some time.
First, kudos to the staff for not flinching at my terribly inappropriate attire. I had come straight from having a small surgical procedure performed, and was famished - and my dedicated handler thought she would treat a somewhat still-anesthetized patient in sweats to a very late lunch.
We arrived a few minutes before five, hoping to grab a quick bite in an empty restaurant before my pain medication began to wear off. However, even at this early hour, the restaurant was fully booked (in its third week of being open). Rather than turn us away and scoff at the badly dressed rubes who had stumbled into their establishment, we were welcomed to sit at the large, central communal table.
[Note to those of you not under the influence of hospital administered narcotics: the Bistro is BYOB, and conveniently located next door is Perman Wine Selections (former home to Bennett Wine Studio), which sports a relatively small but very nice selection of wines and some craft beers for every price range.]
Upon entering the restaurant, I was reminded of the elegant yet "city farmhouse" chic elements of a number of bistros I have visited in the past year in Brooklyn (iCi, L'Epicerie). Absent the red-striped banner sign on the glass (which makes it look like an actual grocery store), I would applaud the owners on their design touches. This is transcendent through the place settings and the very cool long, thin silverware.
Now, for the important stuff. The food. As aforementioned, we arrived at the very beginning of the dinner hour, only to find that the Bistro has an early bird special - a 3 course prix fixe menu for only $25. This, friends and loyal readers, is a true steal.
Perusing the ceiling-height chalkboard menu, we studied an interesting type of French fusion cooking; comforting French fare with spices from around the globe, as well as a few more "new American" dishes.
For starters, I tried the steak tartare, which was very rich and cut with only a modest amount of capers and onion. As a result, the amount of steak was more substantial than a typical tartare. A small quail egg and thick peppery crackers also accompanied the dish. In sum, as the waiter promised - "5-star" - but could use some more capers to enhance the high-quality meat's spice.
My charming orderly had the night's special "tuna two ways"; a tempura tuna roll and tuna tartare. The tuna roll was decent but the tuna tartare, mixed with a spicy sauce and bits of corn and Japanese beet, was exemplary.
The main courses, however, really stole the show. The waiter convinced me the while the burgers were solid, I should really try the lamb. I had a taste for burgers, but this thirst was slaked by the steak tartare.
The roasted chili-crusted lamb chops were served with a yogurt creamed spinach and curried couscous. The lamb was perfectly cooked and well-spiced, and while I am not a big lamb guy, I would order this dish again.
My partner ordered the highly recommended roasted garlic risotto with artichokes and mushrooms. The very nicely-sized portion was a deep gray color, as the risotto was further flavored with simmer mushroom and truffle sauce. Excellent and a must-have.
For dessert, we sampled the banana and bacon tiramisu, which was both inventive and scrumptious.
I truly enjoyed this dining experience; in addition to the food, the attitude and feel of the restaurant seemed different than the traditional "new hot spot". It felt like an authentic modern bistro. And it backed up its sensibility with excellence in dining.
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