It is with some pleasure that I went to try the second outpost of authentic Italian cuisine by Bruno Abate. Housed in a stark, modern space in lower Bucktown, Tocco's interior is a contrast to the trendy, yet reserved Mediterranean hues that decorate Follia, Bruno's original spot in the West Loop. I would deem the post-modern art deco, black and white interior and sharp, clear tables to give the feel of a European club.
We arrived early for our reservation, an our table wasn't ready, but we were offered the communal table if we didn't want to wait. We opted to sit communally and begin our dining experience.
Our helpful server gave us the run down on the menu (which is similar to Follia, but with a few additional wood-fired options including a range of calzone), and left us to peruse the short but well-chosen wine list. Also similar to Follia, the largely Italian wine selections provide for all budgets, from simple Italian staples to reserve selections including an amazing '04 Ornelliaia, which we splurged on.
After sampling the fine wine, we started with one of the appetizers unique to the Tocco menu, fried gnocchi. The fried dough was a little chewy and served with three shaved meats; an amazing tender shaved ham, a light mortadella and fine prosciutto. We also had a Follia favorite, breseola with a small salad of fresh arugula and shaved parmigiana.
For our main dish, we chose to sample some of the house made pastas, and were not disappointed - it was clearly prepared fresh and cooked to perfection. We shared a pappardella simply served with fresh tomato, basil garlic and some fresh pepper; as well as a spaghetti carbonara, which was unexpectedly light but without sacrificing any of the flavor.
As we finished our wine, we tasted the four cheese selection of the day, and enjoyed all of them - parmigiana, gorgonzola, and two other soft cheeses I can't recall, but both were excellent, topped with truffles and honey.
Bruno happened by the restaurant as we were finishing, and like the true restaurateur he is, welcomed us warmly, making even this trendy reclaimed piece of urban jungle feel like an a friend's Italian kitchen.
I think I can say with certainty that Chicago is lucky to be graced with another outpost for real, fresh Italian delicacies.
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