London 2009: Ladbroke Arms

Dear reader, I am going to slip back in to my terrible habit of writing some of my au courant experiences; I wish I could wring the time out of my schedule to slog through the dozens of worthy draft posts I have not given due attention. However, my passion for my recent holiday weekend in London drives me to share what was just about a perfect weekend.

So, I will start with what was an auspicious Thursday in London's Notting Hill neighborhood. I had landed early that morning on the overnight flight; a few hours of sleep and a desire to get on London time led me to one of my favorite pubs in this fine city.

I went with two friends to the Ladbroke Arms, a venerable gastro-pub just off the Holland Park Road (I love how Britons use "the" in front of most roads). This was not my first visit to the Ladbroke Arms, but it had been several years. Nestled away from the traffic off a street called Ladbroke Road off a street called Ladbroke Court off a street called Ladbroke something across from a police station (confusing, right?) is a well laid out pub with a front garden area. Run by a team of French folks, they have brought truly good food to the pub experience.

More surprising than the anticipated French-style service (they mostly ignore Americans wearing ironic t-shirts) was the fact that, waiting for our third friend to arrive, I got a sunburn (you may ask, do they have those in London?) sipping London Pride (served warm-ish, of course) on the patio.

Even more surprising than all of this is the fact that they served a beautiful salad with fresh cooked rare salmon and frites.

I don't have a lot more to say than this pub gives you the real feel of the London experience without having to suffer through the terrible food that usually accompanies the experience. As a friend I once had recommended to the pub said, the Ladbroke had me "cradled in its Arms", and I couldn't think of a better place to start four perfect days in London with weather more appropriate to the South of France than London in the waning days of May. Go there.

Houston 2009: Tony's

I implore my readers to forgive me for forgoing the updates from recent jaunts to New York and Montreal to introduce you to an amazing location for fine dining in Houston, Texas.

Rarely considered a bastion of fine dining, Houston rises early to summer, and at the end of my first day in 90-degree heat in 2009, I was treated to the best this West Texas city has to offer. I felt it incumbent upon me to make you aware post-haste of the potential captured in this city's long-standing fine dining establishment, Tony's.

While I would have chosen a bit more subtle and nuanced decor, as I entered Tony's traditional "old school" Italian spot I realized I was in for a treat. For starters, the surreal bar area sported no less than three Secret Service agents dipping fresh strawberries in powdered sugar, as if at the end of a long journey of dining. I later discovered they were there to protect the evening of the current and past governors of Texas (both were present at the table next to us). Such Southern, nay, Texan (there is a substantial difference) royalty would only dine in the "best of the best", I figured.

As the sommelier tantalized us with his suggestions, we commiserated over some of the wines not available - sold out - as it would seem they had given up my first few choices of great juices to Texas' finest diners earlier in the year. Despite this inital setback, the talented wine steward made alternative suggestions for some amazing wines, none of which I had ever sampled before. Our party of four indulged in fine vintages from France and Napa: a Chateau Dauzac ('99 Margaux, not the best year, but softened to near perfection at its tenth anniversary); Ghost Block ('06 Napa Cab) with a unique cinnamon taste; and Hollywood & Vine, 2480 ('06 Napa Cab) with a heartier, tannic blend that stood perfectly with our main courses.

Before we ordered, the fine Texan gentleman I had the pleasure of dining with arranged for Tony himself to visit our table. Tony is a consummate restaurateur, having "kept his hands dirty" in the kitchen over a 45-year career to ensure that the menu and ingredients were true to his Italian heritage - farm ripened produce, house-made pastas, and nouveau cuisine entrees that married the "old world" with inventive new preparations and sauces.

With Tony's sage recommendations at hand, we attacked the menus our attentive servers appeared with. Favorites rarely seen in Texas (or outside of Italy), such as zucchini blossoms, were scattered amongst more traditional comfort foods from Texas - steaks and chops, fresh fish from the gulf, and lightly fried appetizers.

After we ordered, one of Tony's suggestions immediately came as an amuse bouche - a perfectly prepared morsel of foie gras that was simmered in a reduction evoking sharp cherry and salt flavors, tantalizing our taste buds for what was to come.

All of our party opted to start with the unique (for America) zucchini blossom stuffed with lobster and crab meat, lightly fried and delicate in its preparation. It was "Texas sized" compared to my expectation, but excellent.

As we struggled to decide between the fresh pastas and the heartier dishes for our mains, our waiter suggested an intermezzo course that sampled the house-made pastas and sauces, which we graciously accepted. Tony would choose a selection for us to share.

When the pastas arrived, we were delighted with a plate of three tastes: ravioli "amulote" with spinach & cream; Triangoli ravioli stuffed with veal in a light but rich sauce; and Papardelle perfectly constructed and slathered in Tony's own bolognese sauce (a bit salty but very tasty).

For my entree, I selected the bone-in rib eye (having been "dared" by the waiter that it was the "best steak in Texas"). This truly was a memorable steak: flavorful, perfectly cooked, and served with flash fried green beans and duck-fat roasted new potatoes.

Veritably stuffed from our multi-course fine dining experience, we passed on dessert but were treated to the signature strawberry tree (the house specialty even the Secret Service indulged in); fresh strawberries and meringues with a powdered sugar dipping bowl.

The only real negatives at Tony's are aesthetic - the space has a campy feel with a 1980's gauche decor; large monuments to bad sculpture and a too-loud piano man mar the otherwise amazing experience. However, with good company and excellent service, it is easy to look past the decor and acoustics at this downtown "see and be seen eatery".

All in all, an amazing dining experience and from here on out, my top recommendation for anyone heading south to Texas.

Musings

I have not written much about myself or my personal perspectives other than how they are reflected in my writing about food and travel. Today I just feel like noting that a lot of times, due to my schedule, I find it impossible to muster the creative energies to attack the backlog of posts I owe to my readers. I hope this changes - I am excited about the line-up to come: New York, Montreal, London and Minneapolis are on the docket!

Chicago 2009: Ina's

I awoke early on what promised to be the first real "summer" day in Chicago. The sun was bright and I gathered my paper and a new book, and headed to grab a coffee and some breakfast.

Unfortunately, a heavy summer storm emerged and I retreated back into my house to do some chores. The rain passed quickly, and while the sky remained dim it was a warm day. I wandered out to my favorite local breakfast place, Ina's. Ina Pinkey's accolades are numerous and Chicagoland diners have been titillated since she was crowned the "breakfast queen" several decades ago.

The charm of this West Loop institution is like a country homestead in the city. One of the unique trademark salt-and-pepper shakers sits on each table. The staff is friendly and efficient, and nice touches like Ina's signature baked goods and a full carafe of coffee on each table appear within seconds of arrival. I should note that while I have been to Ina's on dozens and dozens of occasions for breakfast, brunch and lunch, I have never been there for dinner, despite the award-winning fried chicken and other good homestyle options.

So, I hope you don't mind if I focus on the sweet and savory breakfast options for this post. Whether it is the signature dishes like "Heavenly Hots" (thin pancakes with hot fruit compote), Scrapple or Frittata; the fine omelets and other baked goods; or the fresh made soups, salads and sandwiches - Ina and her kitchen turn out wonderful, fresh (and largely organic) treats. The coffee is strong and good, and all-natural, fresh-squeezed orange, tomato, grapefruit and other juices are on hand.

It is the perfect spot for a casual family gathering, an informal business luncheon, or even a quiet spot to read a newspaper or a book. This morning, I had the pleasure of sampling the oatmeal pancakes with blueberries and fresh syrup while I read an exceptional newly published tome (The Whole Five Feet, but Christopher Beha). The perfect start to a weekend.

Chicago 2009: Goose Island Clybourn Heritage Collection Part 1 of 2

Goose Island set out to do something no other brewmaster could accomplish - make a set of craft beers to compete with wines. Ones that could be paired with foods. And titilate the tastes of ladies.

The first shot the Halls and their crew took at this were the popular Matilda, Bourbon County Stout, Pere Jacque, and Demolition about two years ago. This year, they released the evolution of this concept with four new beers: a new Demolition, Naughty Goose, Juliet and Sophia.

These four evoke flavors of their intended opponents. For example, the Naughty Goose is the beer equivalent of a Pinot Noir, whilst the new Demolition is a competitor for a heady white. I sampled two of the four while waiting for the Cubs' home opener to start after an icy rain delay in early April.

The Naughty Goose is a dead ringer for a pinot. Light but solid "American Brown Ale" served in a pint glass, backed with the rest of the tall 22 ounce (excuse me, "1 Pint 6 Fluid Ounces", according to the bottle). The bottle is meant to be drank within a half year of initial bottling. The beer is indulgent while light for a brown ale, with some hint of chocolate. Very good, very tasty.

The bomber of Demolition was a "Belgian Style Golden", with some bitterness and a heavy body for a golden ale. Some honey citrus flavour pares down the bitterness, and my British female drinking companion preferred this to the Naughty Goose.

More to come when Juliet and Sophia are released later this month. . . . .

Chicago 2009: Branch 27

It was with some excitement that I accepted an invitation to dine with friends last week at Branch 27, a new spot by some trendy-dining heavyweights (backers of Rockit, chef from North Pond). All of the first-on-the-scene publications, bloggers, daily updates had heralded its opening. "Love the space, love the food, another must try from veterans, etc".

I will concur that the space is a nice one. Located in the former 27th Ward Library space, the decor is understated and comfortable. A decent sized bar area unfolds into the larger two-tier dining room and finally into a unique skylight/atrium room. The tables were full, but the spacing was adequate and one did not feel as "crammed in" as would be typical at such a restaurant.

But, dear readers, I am sorry to say that the big names behind this new spot focused more on the PR than on the food and service.

Granted, I was there in the first week of opening, so I will give some wide berth for errors and mistakes in service. However, before we even began dining, the combination of too-infrequent wait service (one of our party of four always had an empty glass) and too-frequent bus service (many of us lost plates / utensils if they were left idle for a second) was disappointing. Too, several of the beers on the well-compiled beer list were unavailable; which seems a bit of a gaff for an American bistro (I could live with one beer being "sold out", but 3 or 4?).

On the subject of food, I am of two minds. On the one hand, the PR around this opening is painstaking to differentiate the spot in its simplicity / lack of "fussy" food. As such, "normal" dishes that might not excite me relative to the latest and greatest the culinary scene in Chicago has to offer should be forgiven or handicapped. However, these "normal" dishes tried to evoke some creative flair: mozzarella egg roll (served lukewarm and flavorless), mussels & frites in interesting dishware (again, lukewarm and less than exciting to the palette), a highly recommended half chicken (very fatty, low-grade chicken and cold brussel sprouts). The flatbreads with exotic toppings were a highlight of the kitchen's talent, but the last two pieces were whisked away as entrees arrived without regard for us wanting to finish.

So, I may try it again to see if the visit was premature on the first open-to-the-public Saturday, but with my long list of new spots to try, I was disappointed that this restaurant was so over-hyped by the literati of the food world.

Chicago 2009: The Grocery Bistro

The Grocery Bistro opened a few weeks ago in a star-crossed spot near Washington and Halsted, which has played home to fast food, sushi and offices over the last dozen years I have lived in the West Loop. For the sake of anyone who enjoys fine food and a convivial setting, let's hope that this is the last change we see for some time.

First, kudos to the staff for not flinching at my terribly inappropriate attire. I had come straight from having a small surgical procedure performed, and was famished - and my dedicated handler thought she would treat a somewhat still-anesthetized patient in sweats to a very late lunch.

We arrived a few minutes before five, hoping to grab a quick bite in an empty restaurant before my pain medication began to wear off. However, even at this early hour, the restaurant was fully booked (in its third week of being open). Rather than turn us away and scoff at the badly dressed rubes who had stumbled into their establishment, we were welcomed to sit at the large, central communal table.

[Note to those of you not under the influence of hospital administered narcotics: the Bistro is BYOB, and conveniently located next door is Perman Wine Selections (former home to Bennett Wine Studio), which sports a relatively small but very nice selection of wines and some craft beers for every price range.]

Upon entering the restaurant, I was reminded of the elegant yet "city farmhouse" chic elements of a number of bistros I have visited in the past year in Brooklyn (iCi, L'Epicerie). Absent the red-striped banner sign on the glass (which makes it look like an actual grocery store), I would applaud the owners on their design touches. This is transcendent through the place settings and the very cool long, thin silverware.

Now, for the important stuff. The food. As aforementioned, we arrived at the very beginning of the dinner hour, only to find that the Bistro has an early bird special - a 3 course prix fixe menu for only $25. This, friends and loyal readers, is a true steal.

Perusing the ceiling-height chalkboard menu, we studied an interesting type of French fusion cooking; comforting French fare with spices from around the globe, as well as a few more "new American" dishes.

For starters, I tried the steak tartare, which was very rich and cut with only a modest amount of capers and onion. As a result, the amount of steak was more substantial than a typical tartare. A small quail egg and thick peppery crackers also accompanied the dish. In sum, as the waiter promised - "5-star" - but could use some more capers to enhance the high-quality meat's spice.

My charming orderly had the night's special "tuna two ways"; a tempura tuna roll and tuna tartare. The tuna roll was decent but the tuna tartare, mixed with a spicy sauce and bits of corn and Japanese beet, was exemplary.

The main courses, however, really stole the show. The waiter convinced me the while the burgers were solid, I should really try the lamb. I had a taste for burgers, but this thirst was slaked by the steak tartare.

The roasted chili-crusted lamb chops were served with a yogurt creamed spinach and curried couscous. The lamb was perfectly cooked and well-spiced, and while I am not a big lamb guy, I would order this dish again.

My partner ordered the highly recommended roasted garlic risotto with artichokes and mushrooms. The very nicely-sized portion was a deep gray color, as the risotto was further flavored with simmer mushroom and truffle sauce. Excellent and a must-have.

For dessert, we sampled the banana and bacon tiramisu, which was both inventive and scrumptious.

I truly enjoyed this dining experience; in addition to the food, the attitude and feel of the restaurant seemed different than the traditional "new hot spot". It felt like an authentic modern bistro. And it backed up its sensibility with excellence in dining.